filtering sugar primed keg - keg

When it flows clear just hook up a jumper line and transfer to another keg via CO2 pressure from a tank.

 

I'd be concerned about foaming while filtering. It may be unworkable. Then again, I may be dead wrong.

I force carb all my kegs with great success and it flows clear after the first couple of pours. If you're looking for clear beer, I second BumpkinBrewer's suggestion that you simply transfer it while it's running clear. Filters can be a PITA - cleaning (disposing after each use?), sanitizing, expense, etc. You can get consistently crystal clear beer with cheap, plain, fast-acting (two days, in my experience), supermarket-variety Knox Gelatin. Then transfer to another keg leaving the sediment behind.

Welcome and thanks for the rant.

 

Prime, wait and then crash hard to settle out the yeast.

Dispense a yeasty pint.

Give the keg a quick shake, crash for another day, dispense again.

I would do this a total of 3 times. After that you've probably cleared a big enough field of yeast around the dip tube to hook up a jumper and transfer to another keg.

ETA: And ofcourse filtering carbonated beer is a recipe for disaster.

 

Why not just dispense until clear and then hook the jumper up as Bumpkin suggests? After that first bit of yeast, my beer seems to run clear indefinitely as long as I don't disturb the keg.

 

Because as you get down in the keg during a transfer, you're going to cycle up more yeast from the current. I prefer to get rid of more of it first.

 

I haven't tried one of these yet, but have heard great things about it from the LHBS that I go to
http://aardvarkbrewing.com/beer-supplies/kegging-supplies/new-clear-beer-draught-system

 

Nice idea. But $45+shipping is a little steep, IMO. Gravity is free.

 

Too many negatives for me:

-It puts a plastic tube in your beer for an extended period of time. Not that I'm paranoid about plastic, but if it can be easily avoided in favor of a shiny, clean, stainless steel dip tube, then why not?

-You would have to have one for every keg in use. So that's $45 + Shipping x # of kegs on tap.

-It would be another thing to clean.

 

Looks like someone made a beefier version of a cask widge. http://www.ukbrewing.com/category_s/69.htm

 

Hah. Thats my LHBS as well.

I've seen one of these in there, never used one, and probably won't buy it for the price.

 

If you're worried about frothing, play the counter pressure game. Pressure your receiving keg to about the same pressure as your source keg. Connect the two and gently release some pressure from the receiving keg and repeat to keep foam to a minimum.

 

You guys sure like wasting CO2.

It looks like you should just cut the last inch off of your dip tube. It won't cost $45.

 

CO2 is cheap. And it's a once every two or three year purchase. Not a big deal.

 

No, I wouldn't spend $45 for it and there are other methods that are cheaper, but I've spoke with Doug you owns the shop there were it's sold and there are other benefits to this device, one of them is that your drawing beer off the top of the keg so besides from being clearer it will also have more carbonation. Depending on how you use your kegs, methods, and likes/dislikes this MAY be a viable option.

 

How would it have more carbonation?

 

That's a barbaric and unnecessary practice. Leave your dip tube how nature intended.

 

I guess I should have stated that this is what I was told, also that I just started kegging so I've got very little experience, but Co2 as it's adsorbed will be from the top down as the keg sets upright and using Co2 to carbonated with, so I guess the thinking is if you start drinking before the entire keg has had time to fully adsorbed all the Co2 , you won't have an uncarb glass of cloudy beer. But I could be totally wrong here,

 

As CO2 dissolves into solution, it is very quickly 'spead evenly,' because solutions are homogenous systems. You wouldn't be able to dissolve new CO2 into solution fast enough for it to cause the solution to be non homogenous.