Final Gravity question

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by Jos3h2r, Apr 12, 2016.

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  1. Jos3h2r

    Jos3h2r Initiate (0) Apr 7, 2015 Panama

    Ive seen some beer recipes where the FG is still high, like 1.016 or 1.021. Most recipes look for FG below 1.010 but when do you want your FG to be that high?
    Does this high FG change carbonation and priming? Isnt that dangerous?

    Is this what youre looking in a High gravity beer? Like a 1.065+ OG beers?
     
  2. pittvkyle7

    pittvkyle7 Initiate (0) Apr 16, 2007 Connecticut

    Beers with a high final gravity have more body than beers with a lower final gravity. Style and taste preference should determine what the final gravity could be.
    Generally the higher the original gravity - the higher the final gravity. A typical yeast will attenuate 75% of the malt sugar. For example an OG of 1.090 could attenuate to 1.021 at 75% attenuation.
     
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  3. pweis909

    pweis909 Grand Pooh-Bah (3,250) Aug 13, 2005 Wisconsin
    Pooh-Bah

    The danger depends on whether the sugar that contributes the high final gravity is fermentable or not fermentable, and, if fermentable, whether there are any yeast left that are sufficiently health to complete the task. Except perhaps for some very high alcohol beers, there generally will be enough yeast to eventually eat through the fermentable sugars. If you brew all grain, the amount of unfermentable sugars in the wort depends on the amount and type of grain and mash conditions. If you brew extract, it is pretty much dependent on extract brand and steeping grains.
     
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  4. scottakelly

    scottakelly Maven (1,487) May 9, 2007 Ohio

    I brew mostly low to mid gravity beers and my FG is usy somewhere between 1.012 to 1.016. I wouldn't want an FG below 1.010 for most beer styles.
     
  5. OldBrewer

    OldBrewer Maven (1,385) Jan 13, 2016 Canada (ON)

    There are other additives that can raise the final gravity of the beer, such as the non-fermetnable sugars in lactose, often used in milk stouts.
     
  6. Tebuken

    Tebuken Initiate (0) Jun 6, 2009 Argentina

    ´´ Does this high FG change carbonation and priming? Isnt that dangerous? ´´

    1. You must to be sure that fermentation is done, if it is so there´s no need to change carbonation and priming.
    2. If fermentation is not ended(there are residual fermentables left to ferment) it could be a bit dangerous to prime looking for high carbonation levels due bottle bombs production
     
  7. inchrisin

    inchrisin Pooh-Bah (2,013) Sep 25, 2008 Indiana
    Pooh-Bah

    Stevia is added to cider to make it taste less like feet. :slight_smile:
     
  8. OldBrewer

    OldBrewer Maven (1,385) Jan 13, 2016 Canada (ON)

  9. Jos3h2r

    Jos3h2r Initiate (0) Apr 7, 2015 Panama

    Thank you all for sharing youre experience with me.
    Quick question, if for some reason you get a bottle bomb? This will happen a few days after bottling? Or it could happen even if the beer has 2 weeks after bottling day?
     
  10. OldBrewer

    OldBrewer Maven (1,385) Jan 13, 2016 Canada (ON)

    It depends on how much fermentables are in the bottle, what temperature it is left at, whether the bottles have been agitated, the strength of the bottles, etc. Most often it will happen a couple of weeks or even months later.
     
  11. PapaGoose03

    PapaGoose03 Grand High Pooh-Bah (6,057) May 30, 2005 Michigan
    BA4LYFE Society Pooh-Bah

    Getting a bottle bomb does depend on all of the factors mentioned above, but in reality, over-carbed beers mostly produce gushers that make a mess when you open the bottle, and you're then left with about 1/3 of your beer. If you have grossly over-carbed your beer to the point that bottle bombs are very likely, they potentially can explode at any moment after just a few days. It can't be predicted.

    Given what I said above about most being just gushers, that is not intended to be an encouragement for you to bottle something too early, and I sense from your question that you are trying to justify doing it. (Or already have done it.) If you're still contemplating going ahead with bottling, just make sure that you've tried everything to get your gravity reading down to where it should be. Some yeast just work very slowly near the end and may only drop one gravity point in a week, but they are still working. Once you get two gravity readings a few days apart that are the same, and you've done everything you can to get it lower, then go ahead and bottle.

    If you have already bottled, once you check your first bottle and find out that it is properly carbed, keep the rest of them cold until you drink all of them. That should stop any further fermentation in the bottle and leave them all drinkable. If that first bottle is a gusher, then seriously consider destroying the entire batch and learn from this experience.

    However, when you have a batch that you suspect could be over-carbed (which it sounds like you could have), gently handle those bottles when opening them and be near a sink with a glass in which to pour the beer. Evaluate the potential danger involved with the rest of the bottles, and never give away a bottle that you suspect could be over-carbed. Your friends will appreciate that.
     
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