Fining agents

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by Cmack15, Jul 4, 2014.

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  1. Cmack15

    Cmack15 Pundit (827) Sep 7, 2008 Massachusetts

    Has anyone used biofine or polyclar? If so how did you use them and what are your thoughts about them?
    I believe I am having some astringency issues and hope one of these can help.
    Cheers
     
  2. FATC1TY

    FATC1TY Pooh-Bah (2,564) Feb 12, 2012 Georgia
    Pooh-Bah

    Not sure those will help with astringency..

    What beers are you having the problem with?
     
  3. mattbk

    mattbk Savant (1,111) Dec 12, 2011 New York

    I've used biofine clear in kegging and had good results. This won't fix astringency issues though, only improve clarity.
     
  4. koopa

    koopa Initiate (0) Apr 20, 2008 New Jersey

    I haven't yet, but here is some general info on finings from my brewing school texts:

    Color Removal: Gelatin and Activated Carbon
    Tannin Removal: Gelatin and PVPP
    Yeast Flocculation: Gelatin and Isinglass
    Protein Reduction: Silica Gel and Tannic Acid


    So Gelatin or PVPP is the way to go for tannin (astringency) removal

    Biofine and Polyclar are both brands of PVPP from what I've read, so they should help to some degree.

    Biofine Clear, I believe, is made from Silica Gel so it's just for protein reduction / clarity so that won't help with astringency
     
    #4 koopa, Jul 4, 2014
    Last edited: Jul 4, 2014
  5. koopa

    koopa Initiate (0) Apr 20, 2008 New Jersey

    Was the beer in the keg you added Biofine Clear to cold or room temp? Did you transfer the beer from that keg to a different serving keg after clarifying? If so, was the original clarifying keg standard or did you have a shortened dip tube in it?

    I ask because I currently have a refrigerated keg of a mild that needs protein removal (batch sparged and forgot to add the whirfloc) that has a standard length dip tube in it. I've read that usually you add silica gel based clarifying agents to the fermenter, let them flocc, then rack to a keg. So usually it's added to warm beer and not in the serving keg. I'm worried about whether the biofine clear will transfer to the serving keg along with the beer post clarification, since I don't have a shortened dip tube in the keg the beer is already in (and don't want to shorten my dip tubes to be honest). I also wonder if the biofine clear will be as effective in cold beer as warm.
     
  6. mattbk

    mattbk Savant (1,111) Dec 12, 2011 New York

    To my knowledge, BC improves flocculation (electrostatic characteristics) of yeast as well.

    The thing with BC is that it needs to be well mixed to be functional. My procedure is to add 8-12 mL of it to the keg post-sanitization then rack the beer on top of it. By the time the beer is carbed there's a really compact layer of material on the bottom of the keg. It's so compacted it's actually below the dip tube. I can get very clear beer this way.

    Finally, I've read probrewer comments, many add it inline from transfer between crashed fermenters and brite tanks. Therefore, it would seem to me that it would be effective with cold beer as well. I know probrewers that swear by it. Try adding some to your keg, purge with CO2, and try mixing the keg up pretty good. Hope it works out for you.
     
  7. koopa

    koopa Initiate (0) Apr 20, 2008 New Jersey

    Thanks. Knowing that it compacts well enough to probably not get picked up by the dip tube in a keg to keg transfer, I'd probably try the following then:

    Add the BC to a new keg
    Close transfer my mild from it's current keg into the new keg (for mixing purposes and to prevent oxygen pickup)
    Shake new keg a bit
    Allow BC to do it's thing while keeping the new keg cold
    Either serve from the new keg after the BC has completely flocc'd (toss the first pint or two) or toss the first pint or two and then closed transfer back to the original keg (and serve from it) if I'm really worried about the BC getting remixed into solution over the course of the kegs serving life.
     
  8. mattbk

    mattbk Savant (1,111) Dec 12, 2011 New York

    Sounds like a plan. You won't need a retransfer. The beer will be clear up until the very last pint you pour. Enjoy!
     
  9. koopa

    koopa Initiate (0) Apr 20, 2008 New Jersey

    Cool @mattbk how long does it take BC to clarify and flocc in your experience?
     
  10. mattbk

    mattbk Savant (1,111) Dec 12, 2011 New York

    Typically less time than it takes me to carbonate, I tend to set and forget. I'd guess you were fairly clear after 2-3 days, very clear after a week, and crystal after another week or two. Depending of course, on how much you use and what the state of your beer is when it's added.
     
  11. Cmack15

    Cmack15 Pundit (827) Sep 7, 2008 Massachusetts

    I am mostly having astringency issues with my ipa or hoppy beers so I am thinking it is from the hops.
    Cheers
     
  12. mattbk

    mattbk Savant (1,111) Dec 12, 2011 New York

    You dry hopping? How long you keeping the hops in there for? Care to share a recipe?
     
  13. FATC1TY

    FATC1TY Pooh-Bah (2,564) Feb 12, 2012 Georgia
    Pooh-Bah


    Post your process.. could be something you over looked in your set up.
     
  14. Cmack15

    Cmack15 Pundit (827) Sep 7, 2008 Massachusetts

    The astringency only really shows in my hoppy beers so that makes me believe that is hop related as opposed to part of my process. I measure my mash ph and it tends to fall between 5.2-5.6 so that seems in line. I use a whirlfoc tab for the last 15 min of boil and have a plate chiller. I typically use 1L yeast starters and oxygenate the wort with a stone for about 30 seconds. I think the polyphenols from the hops may be playing a role or I am possibly over hopping my beers. I am working on a hoppy session ale. I am thinking with my next batch of doing all the hop additions in the last 15 min
    Cheers
     
  15. FATC1TY

    FATC1TY Pooh-Bah (2,564) Feb 12, 2012 Georgia
    Pooh-Bah

    What does your typical hopping schedule look like then?
     
  16. koopa

    koopa Initiate (0) Apr 20, 2008 New Jersey

    Hops, sparging too hot, and collecting too much runnings can all contribute to excess tannin extraction.
     
  17. Cmack15

    Cmack15 Pundit (827) Sep 7, 2008 Massachusetts

    3 oz 60 min, 3 oz flameout, then 3 oz dry hop for a 1.060 sg
     
  18. koopa

    koopa Initiate (0) Apr 20, 2008 New Jersey

    If its a 5 gallon batch and you are bittering with a high alpha acid hop like ctz @ 60min by chance, then your 3oz @ 60 min addition is giving you roughly 80 ibus which is about right for a dipa only.....if going with bjcp standards for what ever that is worth.

    Any chance you are confusing astringency with overly bitter? Astringency is a sort of harsh bitterness that is mainly characterized by a drying of the mid side palate and back palate.
     
  19. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    From my perspective the difference between astringency and bitterness is a mouthfeel vs. taste sensation.

    Bitterness is a taste while astringency is a mouth puckering sensation. I have read where some folks state that if you eat a non-eating grape skin (e.g., the grape skin of a wine grape) that is a reference point for astringency. For me the epitome of astringency is drinking a non-aged Cabernet Sauvignon wine; I dislike non-aged Cabernet Sauvignon because the astringency issue. I have a buddy who loves non-aged Cabernet Sauvignon wines. To each their own?

    Cheers!
     
    koopa likes this.
  20. Cmack15

    Cmack15 Pundit (827) Sep 7, 2008 Massachusetts

    Basically I want to clean up the finish of the beer. The last taste of the beer has an unwelcome bitterness or astrigency to it.
     
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