First All-Grain Recipe: SMaSH

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by AlCaponeJunior, Sep 6, 2012.

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  1. AlCaponeJunior

    AlCaponeJunior Grand Pooh-Bah (3,452) May 21, 2010 Texas
    Society Pooh-Bah

    Strongly considering a SMaSH for my first all grain batch this weekend. NOTE: 3.5 gallon batch!

    Basic recipe:

    6 lbs Maris otter
    0.5 oz willamette 60 min
    1 oz willamette 7 min
    1 oz willamette 0 min
    1 oz willamette dry hop
    US-05

    targets

    1.047 OG
    34.2 IBU
    4.9% ABV

    I want a very light, easy drinking, easy to brew, lightly hoppy, simple pale ale.

    Will this do it?

    Here's a link to the full exact procedure and more detail than you probably want, lol.

    I'm pretty set on keeping this first brew a SMaSH. I can still adjust the recipe (hops or water), but I will be using 6 lbs of maris otter for the grain.
     
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  2. mnstorm99

    mnstorm99 Initiate (0) May 11, 2007 Minnesota

    I love the recipe as written, and love a good MO/Willamette SMaSH. Looks like you have a good plan. My only suggestion might be to error on the hotter side for your mash, as this recipe with that yeast should ferment down better than any extract you have brewed yet.
     
  3. Tebuken

    Tebuken Initiate (0) Jun 6, 2009 Argentina

    Sounds very nice.I would change some simple things.

    16. add 1.5 gallons 168F water.
    I would use a little bit higher temp water(174F).

    29. at 30 minutes, add about 1/3 tsp Wyeast nutrient blend to a small amount of spring water and dissolve.
    That is not necessary using such a good dry yeast.IMO

    Good luck !!!!!
     
  4. utahbeerdude

    utahbeerdude Maven (1,374) May 2, 2006 Utah

    With 1 oz Willamette at 7 min and 1 oz at 0 min for 3.5 gallons, you will end up with a lot of hop flavor. Depending upon your goals, it may en up being a bit unbalanced because of this.
     
  5. Corkpuller

    Corkpuller Initiate (0) Dec 6, 2011 Pennsylvania

    I'd leave the mash temp where it is and switch to so4, you'll get more aromatic complexity that plays well with willamette.
     
  6. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Initiate (0) Dec 20, 2006 New York

    I read your blog and it's a good plan but I do have two comments. One, I agree with mnstorm99, err one the side of overshooting your mash temp a little, not undershooting it. 152 is a pretty low mash temp to begin with for a 100% maris otter beer fermented with US-05, so if you overshoot a little that's ok, and with a target of 152 you're not going to overshoot enough to damage your enzymatic power. Also keep in mind that it's easier to cool a mash that's too warm (a few ice cubes or even just a little stirring works well) than it is to warm a mash that's too cool. The second thing is if your target fermentation temp is 167 it would be better to pitch at around 164 than 172. You really want to pitch a little cooler than your target and then allow the beer to rise to its target temp rather than pitch warmer than your target and then actively try to cool it.
     
  7. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Initiate (0) Dec 20, 2006 New York

    I find that S-04 makes a bland beer, and the ester profile is off-putting to me personally. It has this strange raw bread dough flavor and aroma, and it's definitely not something I'd use in a SMaSH beer, but to each their own.

    Personally I'd use a more characterful yeast that will accentuate the ingredients, like 1028, but that's just me.
     
  8. Tebuken

    Tebuken Initiate (0) Jun 6, 2009 Argentina

    +1.I don´t like S-04 either.I have brewed a nice SMASH beer using Coopers dry yeast but i used just Pilsen malt, i haven´t got any experience in regards Maris Otter malt.
     
  9. mnstorm99

    mnstorm99 Initiate (0) May 11, 2007 Minnesota

    I also agree with using a yeast that will accentuate, and 1028 (or 1968) would be great. But, I also think US-05 might be nice in this, and it is a familiar yeast so it helps with a comfort level on a first all grain.
     
  10. utahbeerdude

    utahbeerdude Maven (1,374) May 2, 2006 Utah

    I did a calculation using my brewing spreadsheet. Not including any heat being absorbed my the mash tun, a strike water temperature of 165 F for 7.5 quarts will give you an initial mash temperature close to 152 F for 6 lbs of grain. Accounting for some heat absorbed by the tun, an initial strike temperature of 167 F should put you in the ball park, unless for some reason you tun absorbs an inordinate amount of heat. Of course, if you decide to shoot for a higher mash temperature, you'll need to raise the strike temperature by the same amount.
     
  11. AlCaponeJunior

    AlCaponeJunior Grand Pooh-Bah (3,452) May 21, 2010 Texas
    Society Pooh-Bah

    I have considered this but I'm not sure what to do about it. I've had a lot of luck with late additions, but I'm in new territory here. I do like it hoppy, but don't want to totally unbalance my first AG batch either.

    OK I see a theme of "higher mash temp" so I think I'll boost that to 155F. BS is giving me a 172.2F strike temp? That seems high but Homebrew42's comment about cooling being easier than warming is making me lean towards starting warmer than my previous plan of 167F. Perhaps I should bump the strike water up to about 170F? I would expect that the initial contact wouldn't destroy all the enzymes immediately, especially since the water needs to soak into the grain, and will cool a little as it does so. I'm just not sure how fragile these enzymes are or exactly how to handle them.

    I'll boost the sparge temp a little too, up to 172F.

    Yeast wise I have a few US-05, US-04, Nottingham ale, and Wyeast Thames valley. I have to get my stuff by mail so going to the LHBS is not an option. I am saving the Wyeast for another batch in a couple weeks*, so.... I was just going to use 05 because it's cheap, available, and I've liked it before. Of course I've liked 04 before too, and Nottingham. :rolling_eyes:

    On the yeast nutrient, it's very cheep and I have a full tube of it, so I'll just add it anyway, Probably can't hurt, right? I'll drop it it to 1/4 tsp.

    *probably the next batch, because I want the yeast to be as fresh as possible, although I don't want to use it on AG batch 1
     
  12. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Initiate (0) Dec 20, 2006 New York

    The enzymatic power isn't as fragile as you're making it out to be. Sure, you don't want to strike so high that your mash settles at 170, but if you're striking with 170 degree water the temp is going to plummet as soon as you add the water to the room temp grain.
     
  13. AlCaponeJunior

    AlCaponeJunior Grand Pooh-Bah (3,452) May 21, 2010 Texas
    Society Pooh-Bah

    That's good to know. I won't worry too much about it then. I've also done enough batches now that I won't be fretting for a month or more thinking I ruined it before I even taste it. :grinning:
     
  14. Naugled

    Naugled Pooh-Bah (1,944) Sep 25, 2007 New York
    Pooh-Bah

    Looks like a good hop forward Smash, and you seem to have a good handle on your process too. As the others have said getting the right strike temp for you system/process is tricky. My only tip is to take good notes around that step so you know how to adjust for the next batch (if need be). Know your grain temp/qty before dough in, your water temp/qty before dough in, and your mast tun temp before dough in, and obviously your final mash temp. Good Luck,
     
  15. AlCaponeJunior

    AlCaponeJunior Grand Pooh-Bah (3,452) May 21, 2010 Texas
    Society Pooh-Bah

    Just finished brewing this one, it went very well!

    OG 1.045 (theoretical 1.047).

    Volumes were nearly perfect.

    Beersmith did a fantastic job.

    Temperatures were nearly perfect too (within limits of my so-so thermometer).

    I don't think I'll adjust anything for the next batch except to use about 10% more sparge water. I had to add about 1.5 quarts of water to achieve my desired pre-boil volume.

    Copious notes here

    Thanks for all the help in the various threads on this one!
     
  16. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Initiate (0) Dec 20, 2006 New York

    The best way to avoid this issue is to simply look at the volume of your first runnings, you then subtract that from your desired pre boil volume and that how much you need to sparge with.
     
    AlCaponeJunior likes this.
  17. GreenKrusty101

    GreenKrusty101 Initiate (0) Dec 4, 2008 Nevada

    "The second thing is if your target fermentation temp is 167 it would be better to pitch at around 164 than 172."

    I know you meant 67, 64, and 72, but there might be some newbies/lurkers here who don't know your "1" key is stuck : )
     
  18. Homebrew42

    Homebrew42 Initiate (0) Dec 20, 2006 New York

    Ha, that was silly, not sure how I managed that one, thanks for catching it though.
     
  19. MADhombrewer

    MADhombrewer Initiate (0) Jun 4, 2008 Oregon

    I just did one with 10lbs of Vienna and 3oz of simcoe (60, 20, 5 min)
    Very good.
     
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