So I just completed my first brew session and have my wort in the primary fermenter. What are some beginners mistakes that I should be aware of to avoid in these few weeks as it ferments or for when I need to transfer to the secondary fermenter. Questions Im using The Northern Brewer starter kit and don't know how to use the auto-siphon or siphon tubing. Im brewing an IPA, what type of environment should I store the brew (temperature wise) How do I know when to make the transfer into the secondary fermenter (Instructions say 1-2 weeks which is pretty vague) Cheers!
First of all, unless there's a really good reason, such as aging on wood, fruit or souring bugs, don't bother transferring to secondary. It really doesn't do too much for the beer, and it does increase the chances of oxidation, infection and a few other -tions. The biggest thing you need to do is walk away. Leave it alone. Sure, check the fermenter for the first day or 2 to make sure you have some action in there, but after that, don't touch it for a couple weeks, 3 is better. Above all, DO NOT open the top to see how things are going. Those littles yeasties are best left to their own devices in there. I would recommend storing it in a DARK room, at abour 60 - 65 degrees tops. The fermenting beer will generate its own heat and bring up the temp, and too high can lead to off flavors.
I agree with the above, and add that if the kit came with a dry-hop additions, I would do so after 2 weeks...and in primary. Dry hop for 7 days...some do longer, some shorter, but 7 days is what I do. Before you bottle, test the gravity over several days with a hydrometer...it's the only way to know if your beer is finished. Good Luck!
A couple more tidbits: Your auto-siphon has only one control, pump and it siphons. By all means practice this with a bucket of plain water . . . you don't want to be fiddling around with a new technique when your wort/beer is at risk (you can see it in action on youtube,). Sanitize it like your beer depends on it. Same with capping, don't wait until you are ready to bottle to figure out good capping technique. Now is a good time to get a couple of empties, pour in some club soda, cap, and set it on the shelf. No problem if you foul up a time or two here. In a month, pop 'em and make sure you get a "pffftt". Agree with mid 60s for fermenting, but after about 4-5 days it helps to slowly raise the temp about 5 degrees. For DH you can just throw the hops in the primary or I recommend a paint strain bag (boiled/sanitized) to minimize hob debris. When racking from primary (now that you've mastered auto-siphon), don't attempt to get the last drop. You want clear beer at the expense of leaving some behind. Oh yeah, set up the primary the day before in it's position (usually tilted) you will rack from to let debris settle. You don't want to be moving it around on bottling day. I found a squirt bottle of Starsan made life much easier in my brewery. Welcome to homebrewing.
The auto-siphon is an easy device to use. If your siphon is in two pieces then insert the center piece into the larger tube with the rubber gasket end going in first. Connect the tube to the small tube that is the top part of the inner section, which is essentially a plunger. Then insert the fat end of the siphon into your fermenter and the hose into your bottling bucket, or secondary fermenter if you are using one, without stirring up the sediment. You didn't say whether you are using a bucket or carboy, but if using a carboy just insert the siphon straight down thru the neck to let it rest on the raised crown in the center of the bottom of the carboy. My placing it there most of the trub will be off to the lower sections of the bottom of the carboy and will minimize any that can get into the siphon. Once the siphon is inside the fermenter, hold it still and then pull the center section out about 6-8 inches to draw some of the beer into the siphon. Look to make sure that you didn't pull the small tube out of your bucket (or secondary) when you pulled the plunger out, then push the plunger part back in and that motion will start the flow of beer into the receiving container. Hopefully your tube is long enough to reach the bottom so that the beer does not have to 'fall' into the container, otherwise any falling creates splashing which injects air (oxygen) into your beer, which is a no-no because of the oxidation that can then occur. If your tube is too short, at a minimum make sure the beer hits the side of the container so that it is 'flowing' down the side rather than falling and splashing. If your tube is short, and if you have time to get a longer tube before bottling, then I'd do that before you try to transfer the beer. Like PortLargo says, practice with a couple buckets of water and you'll get it.
Thought it might be worth mentioning here that if you're using the auto siphon and hose typical to these setups, putting the hose on can be a bit daunting. Make sure you run both the end of the siphon tube and the hose itself under hot water for a couple minutes to make them a bit more pliably. With the slight give they should slide together smoothly and form a tight seal when returning to room temperature. Another tip I found handy (especially for dry hop brews) is to crash the beer out at a colder temperature for a day or two before bottling. Nothing extreme, but taking the temperature down to about 45-50 degrees after fermenting at 65-70 will encourage a lot of the leafy bits to fall down to the bottom of your carboy/bucket and leave you with a cleaner beer and easier bottling.
practice with the auto-siphon before bottling time. it's easy tho. store preferably below 70F, but 65 would be better if you are using ambient room temp as a measure don't pitch yeast until it's below 70F, preferably 65 Pick your bottles carefully. If re-using commercial bottles, they need to be rinsed very well with HOT water immediately after drinking, allowed to dry upside down completely, then covered with a square of foil until bottling time. If there is anything at all that would require scrubbing to be rid of it, or any speck of non-glass in any dry bottle, reject that bottle. At least this is how I do it, and it works for me. DO NOT OPEN YOUR BEER FOR ANY REASON WHATSOEVER FOR AT LEAST TWO WEEKS
Joining the chorus... - The auto-siphon is easier to use than siphoning with a tube - Mid-60s fermentation temperature will produce most excellent results. The temperature outside the fermentor can be 5 to 7 °F cooler than inside the fermentor. - Don't bother with a 2ndary. Other beginner mistakes... Obsessing about the air lock not bubbling Spelling fermentor as fermenter. FermentOr is the bucket. FermentEr is the yeast. Not being able to relax because there is no home brew (yet)! Relax...Don't Worry...Have A Brew
That last part is near impossible on your first brew. Only becomes highly improbable as you brew more, unless you have another keg or two (or bottled( already going. Then it's just highly unlikely.
Yeah the temptation is high at first, but it passes with time. Nowadays I simply don't open the fermenters any more until I'm damn well good and ready. I'm not tempted to open them, I'm just not. They always get plenty of time without anyone messing with them, generally at least three weeks but sometimes more. (except sometimes to dry hop).
This is good advice. After breaking my siphon at the bend trying to remove the hose I have just left the hose on the siphon end of the auto-siphon, if I have to change the tubing, I just cut it and attach new stuff. What are you using for sanitizer? If you want to make it easy and save money I recommend this: get an extra 5 gallon bucket with lid, and mix starsan with distilled water, you can save the sanitizer and reuse it for a long period of time, and you never have to worry about having it made. I take a spraybottle's worth out for medium size stuff, pour or siphon it from the bucket for big stuff and soak the small stuff.
Theoretically, the leafy bits should settle slightly more slowly at lower temps. But the yeast should settle faster.
Im using The Northern Brewer starter kit and don't know how to use the auto-siphon or siphon tubing. Practice with a bucket of water. Clean and pump sanitizer through it before bottling. Its simple. Im brewing an IPA, what type of environment should I store the brew (temperature wise) Depends on yeast, but typically mid to upper 60's range. I cut a slit in the bottom of a black trash bag and put it upside down over the carboy with the airlock popping out of the slit to keep it dark. I also try not to move the carboy or take off the airlock (introduces oxygen) unless absolutely necessary (dry hopping, etc). If you do remove the airlock or stopper, be sure to sanitize before replacing it. How do I know when to make the transfer into the secondary fermenter (Instructions say 1-2 weeks which is pretty vague) I do not do this...i wait till 3 weeks then cold crash for a couple days. If you cant do that, wait till 3 weeks and then bottle is my advice.
I don't think anyone has mentioned this but really the one thing you need to know about the auto siphon, or any siphon in general, is that the output has to be lower than the input. So put the container with your beer above the container you are transferring to, otherwise it won't work.
