Fixing cloudiness

Bottle it, and once it is done priming cool it down and let gravity clear the beer. Fining agents can help, but time is the best thing to let a beer clear up.

 

If you have room in an extra fridge, "cold crash" your fermentor. Then siphon off of that when you bottle/keg. Will clear the beer even more.

 

At the very least, siphon out of the primary into your bottling bucket...this may be all it needs. I have not heard of this siphonless fermenter but it sounds a bit flawed in design IMO unless you run off all the trub into a separate container. I haven't found a need for gelatin....a cold crash definitely helps if you can pull it off. Personally, I use Irish Moss in the boil, almost always use a secondary, cold crash before kegging, and try not to rush things along...with excellent results (see profile pic)

 

Cold crashing could help, but I'd stay away from gelatin if you are adding dry hops, doing finnings or filtering on a hoppy beer can strip out some of the hop flavors. I think the best and also slimplest as mentioned is to bottle condition as normal then make sure they are in the fridge a few days before you want to drink so they can settle out nice. Clear bear should always be secondary, taste is the #1

 

From the look of it, I'm pretty sure it's just their bottling bucket that you put a lid/airlock on -

http://www.williamsbrewing.com/COMPLETE-BREWERY-WITH-HONEY-WHEAT-P2340C257.aspx

The spigot sits high enough where it would probably be above the trub, but you could certainly run a bit off separate first. Though I don't think you could run it all or even most of it off with where the spigot falls to be honest.

 

I think that could be worth trying. Perhaps the spigot, even if it's above the trub, is still pulling it out with the sample.

 

Just as a side note, my beer gets just as clear as the one in your pic (can read through it, right and I do use Irish Moss, but never secondary or cold crash before kegging. I just use the primary for an extra week or two, and siphon carefully.

Also, I looked up the Siphonless Fermenter which just looks like a bottling bucket to me. But, the spigot seems to sit a bit higher.

 

In reality, my methods are actually closer to yours (i.e. a bit more relaxed than the informative paragraph above)... Kegging is definitely the best way to "cold crash". However, I am one of those rare breeds that still use secondary (along with fly sparging and fermenting in glass) mainly for those extra few weeks of bulk aging to mature the flavor profile.

Sometimes I have trouble keeping my Hefes from being Kristallweizens

 

How long ago did you add the dry hops, and are they pellets? Pellet hops can escape muslin bags and make your beer very silt like from all the floating particles in them. The pellet hops in the beer will usually drop clean on their own after about 7-10 days, which is coincidentally, a good time window for exposure to dry hops.

Fining a beer is perfectly fine, as is cold crashing (I do both for hoppy beers). If you do it correctly, you really won't strip out much, if any, hop aroma or flavor.

 

I use whirlfloc at 10min and cold crash my glass carboy for 2 days in the fridge before bottling. Crystal clear beer.

 

what are we, long lost brothers? I do the same... Oh the horror

 

^^ I am also curious about this^^

 

If all else fails drink it from a pewter or earthenware vessel.It won't clear the beer but it stops you looking at it.

 

It needs to be long enough that whatever settles out is more than what will be stirred up by moving into and then out of the fridge (assuming you have to move). The amount that will settle out depends on temp (the lower the better) and how flocculant the yeat strain is. But as a general rule, I try to crash for at least 24 hours when I do it. Note that I'm talking about yeast here. I really don't know how temperature might affect other particulates.

 

When I had a chill haze issue from an inadequate cold break while chilling, I'd cold crash for 48 hours at 36 F to bring out the haze and then remove it with PVPP (1 week at 36 F after PVPP addition = crystal clear beer). Worked pretty well, but in the end, chilling quicker got rid of the chill haze and simplified my fermentation schedule.

 

if you cold crash, does it take too much yeast out of solution to bottle condition?