A while back, I bought a splitter manifold for my homebrew setup so I could put more beers on tap. For over I year, I neglected to install it. I just realized that my existing gas lines (and related hardware) are 5/16" and my manifold is 1/4". Since I bought this splitter so long ago and can't even recall from where, I may have a hard time exchanging it. What are the ramifications, if any, of putting a reducing connection in the line?
Other than having an additional connection in your line this will work just fine. You might even be able to get away with slipping your 5/16" line over the 1/4" and sealing with a hose clamp. That would be easier than a reducing connection and merits an attempt. Can you spell "oeitiker"?
I do have some of those Oetiker rings and tool. I just didn't think it sounded promising, given how loose the hose seems on the barb. I don't want to wake up to an empty CO2 tank. And by wake up, I mean I would really discover it after dinner. I generally don't hit my kegs up first thing in the morning.
I say it's worth a try. Maybe double clamp it, then add pressure and shut the master tank valve off . . . see if it holds overnight. Worst case is you add the reducing connection you mentioned. I've found mornings the absolute best time if doing some serious tastings . . .
any time you add a splice on a gas line you increase the risk of leaking gas. so i would advise against that. there should be two connections. no more and no less. slipping a smaller diameter tube onto a slightly over sized barb is easy enough. some heat and a bit of effort will get it done. but placing a tube that is slightly oversize on to a small barb will get you a leak. you can maybe get away with it if you use the exact oetiker clamp, but it needs to be precise. i think 15.7 is too big, but carefully clamping a 14.5 might do it. you don't want to clamp too tight though or you run the risk of crushing the tube. the easy solution to to remove the 1//4" barb from the manifold. get a simple brass 5/16" barb. i believe the threaded connections are typically 1/4 npt in these instances. use teflon tape. that is a $2 fix and it will work much better. Cheers. btw, you have a manifold for soda. beer gas line is universally 5/16" ID. why the difference? to make our lives exciting i guess. lets mix it up with compression, flared and threaded while we are at it.
Thanks, this is my plan. Yes, the different fittings sure make things challenging. I order this kind of thing via internet because I don't live near a retailer. I invariably get it wrong and have to re-order. Took four tries to get the right fitting for my DIW line at work (most unhelpful online owner's manual ever).
Have to agree billandsuz's advice is probably best . . . relatively easy to swap out barbs and I believe ever threaded fitting will be 1/4" to minimize aggravation. If you go this route consider adding a wye (or two) which isn't much extra work. They're about ten bucks and with another shut off valve you double your CO2 lines available. Maybe an extra long line to snake out of the keezer for things like keg burbing, beergun'ing, and/or carboy pushing. You rarely hear complaints about too many CO2 connections . . .
I've had success wrapping the male end of a connection with PTFE tape to increase the diameter and then hitting the hose with a hose clamp. When it's all said and done I like the reducers best.
I use both types and don't have bad experiences with either. you can reuse the adjustable clamps, but this doesn't come into play all that often.
yes. Oetoker 101. oetiker clamps are absolutely superior to worm clamps. they are used in industry much more often than worm clamps when the closure needs to be permanent and reliable. your car is stocked with them in fact. one, they are 100% s/s. the ideal clamps say stainless but you will find the screw is either not stainless or maybe just plated. the screw always rusts and will eventually fail. 2, oetiker clamps, the variety called stepless, do not pinch the tube when installed correctly. worm clamps will curl back into the tube if you close them too much. 3, oetikers apply even clamp pressure across the face of the tube, worm clamps crush the tubing on the sides, sometimes. 4, worm clamps get loose over time, particularly when vibrated like on an electric motor or machinery. unfortunately, oetiker clamps are a real pita to remove. and the retail cost is robbery. wholesale oetiker clamps cost $12 to $15 per 100. retail is a few dollars for 10 or so. lastly, oetiker clamps need to be sized correctly. three sizes of worm clamps will do most any job, but we have about 5 sizes used for installs routinely, and stock mabye 10 sizes just in case. Cheers.
Practical implications aside, which scenario would you rather be involved with? Cardiac Surgeon: "The thoracic aorta coupler has developed a leak . . . give me a 13.3 Oetiker and Crimping Tool, STAT" Scrub Nurse: "Oh doctor, you were wonderful . . . the patient will recover and lead a normal life" or Grease Monkey: "That thar oil line is leakin' stinkin' oil all over my good coveralls" Grease Monkey Trainee: " 'Cause you used a durn ole worm clamp . . . any fool knows bettter'n that"
