Getting Started (Concerns over first batch)

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by Josbor11, Jan 12, 2016.

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  1. Josbor11

    Josbor11 Initiate (0) Dec 21, 2013 Ohio

    I've been wanting to get into home brew for a while now but never took the initiative. Received one of those "Craft a Brew" kits as a gift for Christmas for a West Coast IPA and had a lot of fun making it so I went ahead and ordered a couple more recipes to keep practicing. The kit came with a one gallon glass carboy and basic equipment needed to make the batch as well as the recipe. Once I finish the three recipes (one that the kit came with and two that are on the way) I want to expand and start experimenting on my own with five gallon kits which I am still researching.

    Anyways, i'ts my first batch and they hold your hand through everything but I cant help but worry that something went wrong. To trace my steps, I used one gallon of filtered water through my brita pitcher which I brought to 155 degrees then steeped the grain bag for 15 minutes and added in the bittering hops per instructions. Removed the grains and brought to a boil then removed from burner and added the malt (it said to just add half). Returned to burner to begin the boil and added more hops at 30 mins in per instructions, added other half of the malt with about 15 mins to go, and the remainder of the hops with about 2 minutes left. It also required adding some table sugar with a few minutes left too. Threw it in an ice bath in the kitchen sink and waited until it dipped to about 75 and then I added the yeast directly to the pot and did some stirring (this is where I think I fucked up). Then poured it into the carboy using a funnel and mesh strainer. Everything was sanitized of course using the included no rinse sanitizer. I watched some videos after and realized I probably was supposed to strain the pot into the carboy, then add the yeast directly to the carboy instead of the pot. Is it possible I lost some yeast by doing it the way I did? I did have a semi significant amount of sediment in the pot when I poured it over the strainer. It was thick and gunky to the point where I couldn't even pass liquid through it so I had to keep dumping it in the trash to continue pouring. I then added more filtered water to get it to the fill line since I lost a good amount on the stove.

    I had a tube going from the stopper to a half full glass of water for three days then switched to the airlock. Noticed a good amount of activity right off the bat but died down pretty quick. The recipe called for it sitting two weeks then adding dry hops. I just took the rubber cap off, dropped hops in, then recapped with the airlock again. It says to wait a week after doing that (did it Sunday night) before bottling. Right now would be day 16 of fermentation. There is basically no activity going on in the airlock at all. I'll link some images at the bottom. Just wondering if I messed up somewhere so I can avoid it in the future for my next two recipes.

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    Granted, this has been in the basement sitting in the dark and I haven't paid much attention to it but I don't ever recall a ton of activity in the airlock or any foam layer on the top of the beer.
     
    #1 Josbor11, Jan 12, 2016
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2016
  2. CurtFromHershey

    CurtFromHershey Initiate (0) Oct 4, 2012 Minnesota

    Yep, people typically add the yeast to the carboy. You probably had more than enough yeast left to ferment 1 gallon though

    You shouldn't see any additional fermentation after adding the dry hops, no issue there

    Keep that carboy in the dark! Also, chill your wort to a bit cooler than 75* next time if you can. Most ale yeasts should be pitched anywhere from 60-70*

    Welcome to the hobby!
     
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  3. Josbor11

    Josbor11 Initiate (0) Dec 21, 2013 Ohio

    Thanks! It didn't come with a hydrometer, do you think I should grab one and test it or is that not really necessary when following a recipe? From the images, is that what the bottom and top of the carboy should look like at this point? I don't recall ever seeing any krausen. It has been in the dark the whole time sitting in the basement. We keep the house around 67 but the basement is usually much cooler.
     
  4. Mullen2525

    Mullen2525 Zealot (627) Dec 9, 2012 Massachusetts

    You can make beer without a hydrometer. But most will agree it is a very important tool. You look good here. I would invest in a hydrometer and some time reading www.howtobrew.com, it is pretty much the de facto beginners guide.
     
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  5. CurtFromHershey

    CurtFromHershey Initiate (0) Oct 4, 2012 Minnesota

    A hydrometer is a very good idea if you're bottling. For 1 gallon batches, a refractometer would be better since it uses less beer, but the trade off is needing to run the numbers through a calculator.
     
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  6. Josbor11

    Josbor11 Initiate (0) Dec 21, 2013 Ohio

    Would using a hydrometer in combination with a wine / beer thief work the same as a refractometer?

    Something like this: http://amzn.com/B0064O9BYW
     
  7. CurtFromHershey

    CurtFromHershey Initiate (0) Oct 4, 2012 Minnesota

    No, you would still need to take more beer for testing with a hydrometer vs. a refractomter regardless of how you get it. You probably need a good 8 oz of beer in a hydrometer test cylinder, but I only take about 5 ml with a pipette for refractometer readings
     
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  8. Josbor11

    Josbor11 Initiate (0) Dec 21, 2013 Ohio

    Any good refractometers you would recommend that aren't too expensive? You lost me a bit with the pitette. Is that a separate piece needed?
     
  9. PapaGoose03

    PapaGoose03 Grand High Pooh-Bah (6,057) May 30, 2005 Michigan
    BA4LYFE Society Pooh-Bah

    All of that gunk inside the carboy looks like the residue from krausen, so I think you had proper fermentation. A couple of hydrometer readings would confirm that you are at (or close to) your final gravity if your recipe gives you a predicted number, and two readings with a hydrometer that are both close to each other will indicate that no additional fermentation is occurring.

    Since you are 16 days into fermentation with no additional signs that activity is occurring, I think you are safe to go ahead and bottle this beer. If you have quick access to a hydrometer and don't mind losing some beer volume to your samples, then go ahead and take the readings. Drinking the samples will at least let you consume your beer and tell you that you've successfully brewed beer, but it will taste a bit raw compared to what the improvement will be after a few weeks of bottle conditioning.
     
  10. PapaGoose03

    PapaGoose03 Grand High Pooh-Bah (6,057) May 30, 2005 Michigan
    BA4LYFE Society Pooh-Bah

    It's kind of a smaller version of a wine thief because you only need a few drops when using a refractometer.
     
  11. Josbor11

    Josbor11 Initiate (0) Dec 21, 2013 Ohio

    So I would want to grab one of these separately or do most refractometers come with it? With one of these, do you just take the cap off the carboy and take a sample with the pipette or do I need to siphon it out? I also just added dry hops on Sunday and it says to wait a week before bottling.
     
  12. Mullen2525

    Mullen2525 Zealot (627) Dec 9, 2012 Massachusetts

    The other option is to switch to 10 gallon batches and then the 8oz becomes a non-issue :wink:
     
  13. CurtFromHershey

    CurtFromHershey Initiate (0) Oct 4, 2012 Minnesota

    I use a cheapo like this with no issues. Comes with the pipette as well (like a very small turkey baster as someone already mentioned)

    http://www.amazon.com/Ade-Advanced-...&qid=1452619248&sr=8-3&keywords=refractometer

    edit: to use these, you need to take a measurement before fermentation and run the pre and post numbers through a refractometer calculator
     
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  14. Josbor11

    Josbor11 Initiate (0) Dec 21, 2013 Ohio

    Dang, never took it before so might not help me here. Obviously would get good future use with it though. What's the standard for checking gravity? As soon as you pitch the yeast and then again before you bottle?

    I stopped at the local homebrew store on lunch break today for the first time (I needed a brush and some b-brite) and he suggested using the hydrometer and the wine thief combo. He told me you can put the beer back in the wort after you measure it so you don't have any loss. Is this legit? The wine thief was pretty damn big though, it doesn't look like it would even fit in the one gallon carboy but he told me it should.
     
  15. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    At a minimum you check the specific gravity prior to pitching the yeast (this is the Original Gravity) and before you bottle (this is the Final Gravity). A more prudent course of action is to take multiple readings when you think primary fermentation is complete. Take reading and then a couple of days later take another reading to confirm that you are getting the same value; if the two readings are the same then you have confirmed that primary fermentation is complete from a gravity perspective.
    I personally would not do this. My concern here would be from a sanitation (and potential for infection) perspective.

    Cheers!

    P.S. You made mention that you intended to 'expand' to brewing 5 gallon batches. A hydrometer is appropriate here since 'losing' a few ounces of wort/beer is not an issue at this scale.
     
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  16. PapaGoose03

    PapaGoose03 Grand High Pooh-Bah (6,057) May 30, 2005 Michigan
    BA4LYFE Society Pooh-Bah

    I doesn't matter too much to take your OG before or after pitching as long as you aren't using a quart-sized yeast starter. You are wise to take two readings a few days apart after all signs of fermentation have ceased, and compare these reading to your recipe's predicted final gravity and then to each other. If the second reading is no lower than the first reading or really close to it, you're good to go ahead and bottle.

    Drinking the gravity sample is kind of traditional as well as educational, but some homebrewers do put it back. Just be sure to sanitize everything when you do this. You can still put a a little sip in a glass and at least get a tiny taste.
     
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  17. Josbor11

    Josbor11 Initiate (0) Dec 21, 2013 Ohio

    Thanks for all the responses guys, has all been really helpful. Is there harm in letting a beer sit in a carboy too long after fermentation has ceased? Also does taking the rubber stopper out of the carboy to take a sample negatively affect the beer if the cap is off too long? When you siphon to bottles are you putting the racking cane though the opening in the stopper or are you taking the stopper off all together?
     
  18. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    You will here differing opinions here. I prefer that my beers not 'sit' on the yeast too long with the definition of too long being about 3 weeks or so.
    When you remove the stopper a bit of air (oxygen) enters the primary. It would be ideal that no 'extra' air (oxygen) gets introduced but if the stopper is removed for a few seconds this should not be a major issue..
    Feel free to remove the whole stopper at this point. The beer is being exposed to a whole bunch of air (oxygen) in the bottling bucket at this stage so whether the stopper is there or not is a very minor issue at this point in time.

    Cheers!
     
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  19. Josbor11

    Josbor11 Initiate (0) Dec 21, 2013 Ohio

    Sorry for so many questions lol, I know for the one gallon starter kit it has you put some water and table sugar into a pot and siphon your carboy into it, and then from there to the bottles. I've started doing some starter kit research and I see a lot come with a bottling bucket. Is that serving the same purpose as the pot here? You would put sugar water in the bottling bucket and siphon your fermenting bucket into the bottling bucket, then from bottling bucket to bottles?

    If I'm doing a sample with a wine thief, basically take the cap off and as quickly as possible insert and grab the sample and then recap. I take it you don't need to re-sanitize the cap each time you take it off and replug it, or do you? I think my inner perfectionist is getting the best of me already with brewing. I know its supposedly a very forgiving process, but I'm still always super cautious when starting something new.

    I need to come up with a more efficient way of sanitizing too. I'm thinking just one of those big home depot buckets or something. All I had was a pitcher when I first boiled the batch and it was tricky to fit everything where it got full coverage.
     
    #19 Josbor11, Jan 12, 2016
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2016
  20. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    Yup.
    Yes. I would also point out a step of gently stirring the beer after siphoning to ensure that the sugar-water solution is properly mixed with the beer. Avoid splashing during the gentle stirring process. Also make sure that whatever you use as a stirring devise is properly sanitized.
    That is correct and don't feel like you need to rush this like somebody working a pit stop. Just don't lollygag while taking a sample.
    Just make sure to not touch the underside of the plug; only touch the top/external portions of the plug. Then reinsert the plug.

    Maybe if you have a partner here that would be helpful to you? One person pulling out the plug and holding it while the other person extracts the sample.

    Well, practicing proper sanitation technique is important to homebrewing as one point of example. I suppose it could be argued that there is a fine line between being cautious and paranoid? Needless to say but since you are a beginning brewer it would be imprudent for me to not encourage you to be a "perfectionist" here. As you continue brewing you will develop your own personal regime based upon your personal comfort level and your learning.

    To quote an old commercial: Life is a journey, enjoy the ride!!

    Cheers!
     
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