Hazed and confused

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by geodonnokepyo, Jan 6, 2015.

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  1. geodonnokepyo

    geodonnokepyo Disciple (388) Oct 31, 2013 Pennsylvania

    As the title suggests, I have some questions about hazy beer.
    So I just brewed a blonde ale (didn't turn out very blonde, but that's besides the point) and I believe that my beer has acquired the dreaded chill haze. I am attributing the haze to this cause because as far as I can tell there aren't any outstanding off flavors due to infection or the like. I read that chill haze may be due to the hot break and cold break conditions. I don't think my cold break had any problems but my stove top that I used for boiling the wort is pretty shitty and the hot break took a long while (which may have also contributed to the darker beer color?). Aside from buying a new burner, is there anything that can be done to remedy this problem? Also I read that Irish moss/Whirfloc tablets help reduce haze but aren't recommended to use in extract beers, which mine is. Does the chemistry behind these methods not work properly or what? If anyone can shed some light on my situation I would be very appreciative, and also can get back to brewing ASAP.
    Thanks in advance.
  2. dmtaylor

    dmtaylor Aspirant (235) Dec 30, 2003 Wisconsin

    Maybe this will help...


    Also I just noticed that I might need to update that file.... For lighter color, you should be adding about one pound of the extract at the beginning of the boil, and save all the rest of the extract for the last ~10 minutes of the boil. Otherwise the extract gets more oxidized and darkens the longer it is boiled. But you do need to add a little up front for pH/alkalinity control.
    PapaGoose03 likes this.
  3. VikeMan

    VikeMan Poo-Bah (1,950) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania

    Late additions do result in lighter color. But the reason adding extract later produces a lighter color is that it reduces the time for Maillard reactions (melanoidin formation), and this offsets the tendency of extracts to start off already darker than fresh all grain worts.

    I doubt oxidation is a significant factor. The boil is actively driving off O2, not introducing it.
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  4. dmtaylor

    dmtaylor Aspirant (235) Dec 30, 2003 Wisconsin

    Right you are: Maillard, not oxidation. My mistake. Not that the OP probably really cares...
  5. redmaw

    redmaw Initiate (187) Jun 30, 2013 Pennsylvania

    I am not sure where you read that whirlfoc/Irish moss shouldn't be used in extract beers, and I haven't heard that before (not that I am an expert). I know morebeer, and several other sources include whirlfloc at least in extract kits/recipes. I have used whirlfloc in at least two extract batches and both turned out fine. That being said, I don't think they do anything for chill haze. I will note that all of my beers whether I used whirlfloc or not have become very clear given enough time (you didn't mention how long this has been conditioning), as long as I didn't rouse the yeast prior to or during pouring.
  6. geodonnokepyo

    geodonnokepyo Disciple (388) Oct 31, 2013 Pennsylvania

    That is an interesting fact about saving some extract for later in the boil. I may also try to use DME rather than LME next time for a lighter brew. Also to answer redmaw, I fermented for about fifteen days, yeast was not active, and then bottled and waited another two weeks. I was very careful in not stirring up the yeast when racking to a bottling bucket but I suppose I could always be more meticulous. I know that these lengths of time are on the lower end of the spectrum for conditioning but I thought it would be alright for a lighter ale. Anyways, thank you everyone for your insights and I will work on bettering the next batch. :grinning:
  7. Tebuken

    Tebuken Aspirant (289) Jun 6, 2009 Argentina

    Nothing that can not be cured with 8 grams (for 5 gals) of Polyclar for 4 days at 34 F in secondary.
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