Heading to Germany

Day Two - Miltenberg

We spent the day walking around Miltenberg. We picked up an English pamphlet at the Rathaus that told us what the sights were and (more or less) where they were. We found them all. If anyone wants pics of the sights, let me know.

It was interesting to note that although the day was sunny and the temperature hit 73*F (23*C) there were a lot of Germans walking around in heavy coats. I was in short-sleeves and almost wishing I had shorts. A beautiful day.



We had seen this this banner the day before when we were looking for Faust. The brewery closed in 2010, but the beer is being brewed by Eder & Heylands in Aschaffenburg. The tap is still open however so we decided to try a beer.



We decided to sit outside so walked into the tap, and asked the waitress "Bier drausen, bitte?" My Rosetta Stone course finally paid off! I had the Doppelbock and wife had the Pils. The Doppelbock came in a ceramic stein so I didn't take a pic. When the head finally settled down, I realized how light-colored the Doppelbock was. I was expecting a dark bier. Both were okay, but nothing special. I could see why they had trouble competing with Faust.

So we walked around some more, went up to the castle and climbed the tower. I took this picture from the top of the tower and it made me want a bier.



So we did. We sat outside and watched the people go by.



I had a Zwickel Pils and my wife the Hefewizen Hell. At least a couple of Schwartzviertlers were also drank to pass the time.



We ended up eating at the zur Goldenen Krone primarily because it looked interesting. It was okay, but I'm sure there are better places in Miltenberg. They served Schlappe-Seppel biers, also from Aschaffenburg. I ordered the Winterbock and my wife the Ur-brau.



At first I thought the beers were backwards. The Ur-brau looks like what I expected a Winterbock to look like, but I am learning! The Ur-brau was pretty good and the Winterbock a decent Helles Bock. They were worth trying.

Then it was back to the hotel as we had to catch an early train to get to Regensburg by lunch the next day.

 

Is Eder & Heyland's part of a larger group? Must be that the Schlappeseppel brewpub isn't owned by Eder & Heyland's.

 

No, I didn't see it. Otherwise I would have tried it!

 

It's worth it.

 

Day 3 - Regensburg

We took the train from Miltenberg to Regensburg. On the first leg, Miltenberg to Aschaffenburg, the train was packed with what appeared to be University students, some quite fetching (sorry, no pics). We arrived about 11:30, dropped our bags at the hotel and went to lunch at the Wurstkuchl.



Sure it's touristy, but we're tourists! Plus it's probably one of those things you should do once, like visit the Hofbrauhaus in Munich. They serve Jacob bier there, which is brewed in Bodenwöhr. I had the Dunkles, my wife the Altbayrisch Hell. Both went down well with wurst, but weren't particularly memorable.

After lunch we took a 90 minute walking tour of the Regensburg Altstadt. It started at the Altes Rathaus.



I have to wonder why you would want to drink Münchener bier in Regensburg? Drink local! After the tour, we did a little wandering, went to the hotel and checked in. Then we went to find Spital.



The Steinerne Brücke was under construction on the Spital end, but we found it anyway. It took a little longer to find our way into the tap. We ordered more wurst and a Dunkles and a Hefeweizen followed by a Hell and a Pils.



After the last two days drinking Faust, these didn't really stand up. They were good and solid, though. The biergarten was closed, but it looks like a great place to enjoy bier on a sunny day. Maybe next time. I didn't really care for the atmosphere in the tap. Maybe too many old people (even though I am one). It just reminded me of the Elks Club my great-uncle belonged to in the 60's.

We did a little more wandering and then headed to Kneitinger for dinner. Their beers were outstanding!



I ordered the Bock and my wife ordered the Dunkel. The Bock was wonderful, so rich, creamy and thick! One of the best Bocks I've ever had! Heck, one of the best biers I've ever had! Screw American IPAs and all the crap that they put in craft beers these days. Give me more of this! The only one that beats it was the Weltenburger Kloster Asam Bock that I got right out of the lagering tank in 2010. And that one had the situation of being in the lagering cave going for it. I had to try the Dunkel and my wife ordered the Edel-Pils. Damn! The Dunkel is just a lighter version of the Bock. Wonderful! Two of the best biers I've had; Back to back in one small brewery! The people of Regensburg are lucky. We had dinner there so we were in one of the dining rooms. The Schwemme looked like a great place to drink a few, but we were stuffed and needed to walk around.

We walked over to Weltenburger am Dom. We both wanted to go in for a bier since we had such fond memories of the Kloster, but we were just stuffed and decided to call it a night.

I earned Stahl's ire by only spending one day in Regensburg. But the short visit has left me wanting to go back as soon as I can. I'm already thinking about the next trip!

Next stops - Nürnberg and Bamberg!

 

My wife was sitting besides me. I still had 8 days to spend with her 24/7.

 

You live in the land of great lagers. I live in the the land of great IPA's. The grass is always greener...

But seriously, I like good IPA's, but I am growing tired of all the high gravity beers, the barrel aging and the beers with all odd ingredients. I'm also tired of the hype.