Heat Stick vs Burner

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by sjverla, Jul 16, 2013.

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  1. sjverla

    sjverla Initiate (0) Dec 1, 2008 Massachusetts

    I'm moving to a smaller place with less outdoor space. I'll have a small deck that might be able to accommodate a burner/tank, but it'd be really tight. I've done a few batches on my stove top, but I just got a 10 gal kettle and a pound of Simcoe that I'm itching to use and I want to be able to do full boils to really do it right.

    My conundrum is this - I'm thinking about getting a burner and either trying it on my deck, or right next to the doorway inside the kitchen. Hazards are: burner/propane indoors. Cats. Unexpected landlord visit. Also, I'm on the 3rd floor.

    So I started looking into heat sticks, and I'm leaning in that direction. Best I could do is a standard wall outlet in terms of power, so I'd be looking for a fairly low-powered one, but I think it would be enough for 6.5-7 gal boils when used in conjunction with the stove (would the stove even be necessary?)

    Do the heat stick users have a particular website that gave them clear instructions or a place to buy them preassembled? Any other advice for a novice brewer and virgin heat-stick-user?

    Thanks!
     
  2. AlCaponeJunior

    AlCaponeJunior Grand Pooh-Bah (3,452) May 21, 2010 Texas
    Society Pooh-Bah


    That sounds like the definition of a NO-GO.

    Cat knocks over beer set-up, 7+ gallons of boiling wort drips down 3 stories of balcony, burner catches deck on fire just as doorbell rings (you know it's the landlord, of course), but you're delirious from a slight case of CO poisoning from not having quite enough ventilation... :grimacing:
     
  3. mikehartigan

    mikehartigan Maven (1,421) Apr 9, 2007 Illinois

    Gas is out of the question, IMO.

    If you know your way around electricity [insert major disclaimer here], you can get 240VAC by using two outlets, provided they're on opposite sides of the service panel. If you know what I'm talking about, then you can probably do it. If you don't know what I'm talking about, then purge the entire first part of this post from your memory permanently (except the warning about gas). Actually, ignore the whole thing because I have nothing else to add.
     
  4. leedorham

    leedorham Initiate (0) Apr 27, 2006 Washington

    Do you have a washer/dryer in the apartment?
     
  5. telejunkie

    telejunkie Savant (1,107) Sep 14, 2007 Vermont

    punching a hole in your kettle and getting a heating element is actually kind of easy if you have at least some basic knowledge of working with electric. I used a 120V 15-1800W heat stick for a little while and found that it could bring 5 gal up to a boil at the same speed as my old bayou burner. So 120V element + stovetop and you should be golden. There are some people that say you shouldn't use 120V elements in brewing because of the density which will scorch your wort, but I have never had this problem with the heat stick or running my RIMS systems which I have a 120V 1500W high density element. It would require you to have some basic wiring to a control box which has a switch to turn the element on & off. GFCI protection would also be mandatory.
     
  6. sjverla

    sjverla Initiate (0) Dec 1, 2008 Massachusetts

    That's my answer then. And the more I thought about it, the more I was leaning towards a heat stick.

    They're in the basement...why do you ask...

    This is good news.

    I don't have any knowledge. I successfully wired my Johnson Controller (single phase), though. And I think I could handle assembling a heat stick. However, the two-outlet nonsense MikeHartigan recommended will be entirely foregone. I was thinking of going with a PID controller to manage temp control.

    I know the apartment is getting redone right now, but I'm not sure about the wiring/outlets. If necessary I'll certainly get a GFCI cord.
     
  7. tinypyramids

    tinypyramids Pundit (897) Jul 19, 2012 Illinois

    i use an allied bucket heater to supplement splitting a pot across two (gas) burners on my stove top. i have zero issues keeping 7 gallons of wort at a really strong boil, albeit it takes a bit to get there.
     
  8. kjyost

    kjyost Initiate (0) May 4, 2008 Canada (MB)

    Because electric ones run off of 240 V... If one heat stick / element doesn't do it, consider 2. You just need to make sure that they run on different circuits otherwise you'll be visiting your panel!

    Now does anyone know of a 240V splitter he could use on his range? :stuck_out_tongue:
     
    inchrisin and leedorham like this.
  9. inchrisin

    inchrisin Pooh-Bah (2,013) Sep 25, 2008 Indiana
    Pooh-Bah

  10. telejunkie

    telejunkie Savant (1,107) Sep 14, 2007 Vermont

    here is a detailed, pimped out instructions to what i was thinking, only difference being that if I was you, I would just use a 120V, 1500W element and skip the 240V route if you're just doing 5 gal batches:
    http://theelectricbrewery.com/node/9
    You only want PID if you want to maintain a sub-boil temp, like a mash temp. For boiling, a simple on/off switch is all you need.
     
  11. sjverla

    sjverla Initiate (0) Dec 1, 2008 Massachusetts

    Clearly, heat stick wins in this battle. 150w is what I'll be going with since I'm in no position to mess with electrical anything.

    A couple questions:

    1. Most of the builds I'm finding use chrome/brass pipe. What's the reason? Obvious PVC is out for the submersible part, but would galvanized pipe work? Why/why not?

    2. Element orientation: vertical or horizontal? Horizontal is the more intuitive choice, but is there any real benefit to using either direction?
     
  12. mikehartigan

    mikehartigan Maven (1,421) Apr 9, 2007 Illinois

    If I recall correctly, that 'nonsense' appeared in a BYO project article a few years ago. (if I recall incorrectly, then it appeared in a blog post or other such internet site). Frankly, it raised an eyebrow or two when I read it. Not because it's so, shall we say unconventional, but ...well, actually yes - because it's so unconventional. It's actually no more dangerous than building a more conventional 120VAC stick. The increased tripping risk notwithstanding.
     
  13. clearbrew

    clearbrew Initiate (0) Nov 3, 2009 Louisiana

    I know the apartment is getting redone right now, but I'm not sure about the wiring/outlets. If necessary I'll certainly get a GFCI cord.[/quote]

    You can get a GFI outlet and install it later if you need to. But I would get over to the apartment while its being redone. See if there is an electrician there working and ask him if he can run a 240v outlet for you. You might have to slip him $40 or $50 bucks, but it would be worth it IMO.
     
  14. sjverla

    sjverla Initiate (0) Dec 1, 2008 Massachusetts

    I didn't mean to come across as dismissive. I'm sure it's a perfectly viable option for someone with a modicum of electrical inclination. As it is, I'm not terribly handy, so when it comes to projects like this, simplicity is essential to safety.

    It's a good 2 hours away, so the odds of me getting there beforehand are pretty slim.
     
  15. mikehartigan

    mikehartigan Maven (1,421) Apr 9, 2007 Illinois

    I didn't take it that way.
    As I said, if you understand what I'm describing, it's easy. If you don't, then this is probably not a good first project for a self-taught course in Electricity.
     
  16. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    I've seen bucket heaters, but not in the context of a boil kettle. Are they completely submersible? And what are they made of?
     
  17. tinypyramids

    tinypyramids Pundit (897) Jul 19, 2012 Illinois

  18. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    Thanks. The info at the link (and others I've found) is sparse though. Do you know if they are completely submersible (including the wiring end) and what the materials are?
     
  19. tinypyramids

    tinypyramids Pundit (897) Jul 19, 2012 Illinois

    i've never tried to submerse the entire thing. it's tall enough that the wiring end sticks out of my boil kettle. you might want to message them and ask.
     
  20. inchrisin

    inchrisin Pooh-Bah (2,013) Sep 25, 2008 Indiana
    Pooh-Bah


    I didn't think you'd want to dunk the (PVC?) Handle of a heat stick in your beer either. I assumed You'd tie a knot around your kettle handle with the cord to prevent any oh shits.
     
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