Hefeweizen Extract Ingredient Questions

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by brew4you15, Mar 16, 2016.

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  1. brew4you15

    brew4you15 Initiate (0) Mar 16, 2016 Alabama

    Hi all,

    I am planning on brewing a Hefeweizen extract beer in the next couple day and after looking around online trying to find ingredient/recipes and had a few questions.

    I decided I would try to do a recipe similar to Norther Brewer's Bavarian Hefeweizen because it got relatively good reviews from most sights I checked out.

    http://www.northernbrewer.com/bavari...en-extract-kit

    Their recipe calls for:
    6 lbs Wheat malt syrup split addition (60 and 15 min)
    1 lbs Wheat dry malt extract late addition (15 min)
    1 oz German Tettnang (60 min)
    Danstar Munich Wheat Beer Yeast.

    I want to use my local shops ingredients, but they are slightly different.

    They carry Muntons extract and have Wheat LME, However the wheat to barley mix is not as drastic as what NB sells. (55% Wheat / 45% Barley, compared to 65% Wheat / 35% Barley)

    Also, the wheat DME from the NB Kit is 'Bavarian' wheat whereas Muntons only has 'Plain Wheat' at my shop and once again; the wheat to barley mix is much closer together.

    Is this difference an issue with this type of beer, should I change up the recipe a bit, or just suck it up and order online?

    One last question I had was concerning the yeast strain; my local shop has many different types of wheat strains and I was wondering if anyone had any experience with them or thought one might be better than the other.

    They are:

    Hefeweizen Ale Yeast WLP 300
    Danstar Munich Wheat Beer Yeast (what the recipe calls for)
    Safbrew WB-06 Dry Wheat Beer Yeast

    Any thoughts or opinions would be really helpful!

    Cheers,
    brew4you15
     
  2. JohnSnowNW

    JohnSnowNW Initiate (0) Feb 6, 2013 Minnesota

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  3. billandsuz

    billandsuz Pooh-Bah (2,097) Sep 1, 2004 New York
    Pooh-Bah

    You'll be fine if you use the local kit. Just be sure the ingredients are fresh, especially the LME.

    "Bavarian Wheat" from NB huh? Pay no attention to that. There is certainly a difference among grains and where they originate but with LME/DME it isn't a concern. And it usually not a concern with wheat in any case.

    Don't sweat the ratios. The manufacturers refuse to publish the malt bill for extracts anyway, so anything they say can safely be called bull shit. Doesn't make it bad, just nothing you or I could ever verify. More wheat is better though.

    A good liquid German wheat strain should be used. Yeast is absolutely the most important consideration with continental wheat beer. You can't make a proper Hefe without it. WLP300 is fine.

    Good luck.
     
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  4. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    As has been discusses do not sweet the details of wheat vs. barley ratios.

    Select a Wheat DME that is available at your homebrew store.

    Make sure to use a liquid yeast strain. Wyeast 3068 is my personal preference but WLP300 should 'work' as well.

    A critical decision is what fermentation temperature to achieve. My personal preference is 68 degrees F with 3068 (or the equivalent strain of WLP300) since this gets the best balance of banana and clove flavors for my palate. Fermenting cooler will let the clove flavor be more prominent and fermenting warmer will make the banana flavor more dominant.

    Good luck with your Hefeweizen!

    Cheers!
     
  5. dmtaylor

    dmtaylor Savant (1,149) Dec 30, 2003 Wisconsin

    Don't use LME at all. Just go with 6 lb DME and call it good.

    I would pick WLP300, but any of them will work fine.

    I'd ferment cool in the low to mid 60s Fahrenheit if possible to accentuate the clove. Otherwise it can turn into a banana bomb.

    Enjoy.
     
  6. brew4you15

    brew4you15 Initiate (0) Mar 16, 2016 Alabama

    Thanks for the replies! All have been good advice. I'm just going to use DME, however the recipe called for a late addition of some of the extract, is that necessary?
     
  7. PapaGoose03

    PapaGoose03 Grand High Pooh-Bah (6,057) May 30, 2005 Michigan
    BA4LYFE Society Pooh-Bah

    Welcome to the BA site, brew4you15, and to the Homebrewing forum. It's probable that the late addition of the extract is to minimize any darkening of the wort from cooking the extract for an hour. If you'd like to keep your beer as light as possible you can add 25% of the DME at the start of the boil and the rest with 10-15 minutes to go. Extract does not have to be boiled for a full hour.

    Hang around the site as long as you'd like, and enjoy your time while here.
     
  8. billandsuz

    billandsuz Pooh-Bah (2,097) Sep 1, 2004 New York
    Pooh-Bah

    Necessary no. Beneficial yes.

    Good question.
    Late addition extract does two things. 1, less time to darken the beer as pointed out by @Mothergoose03.
    2, better hop utilization. You will get better extraction of hop compounds, bittering agents in this instance, with a less dense wort. As the density of the wort increases the amount of hop oil extracted decreases. Think about it, you are trying to extract pine tar into boiling water. If the water is dense with sugar, it will extract less. Save the extract and you boil the hops in a less dense wort for a longer period.

    Since extract has already gone through the boil wort boil stage, there is little need to really keep an extended boil- except to dissolve the extract, sanitize the extract, mix the hops with the wort.
    This is when it starts to get technical and hopefully fun. Tettnang btw is considered by many to be the absolute best hop for Hefe as well as many other Continental brews. One of my top 5. Maybe top 3.

    Now is a good time to research "full wort boil".
    Cheers.
     
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