Help me build my dream brew setup!

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by fistfight, Nov 17, 2014.

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  1. fistfight

    fistfight Initiate (0) Jan 13, 2006 Massachusetts

    I've been brewing for a few years now and have been using the same hot-side equipment I started with. I do a lot of lifting and I'm exhausted at the end of a brew day. Also, I have big problems with boil-overs and also ~2 gallons worth of boil off after an hour boil. I'd like to upgrade my system, but there are so many options I was hoping the Beer Advocate brewers could help me.

    My current system:
    • 8 gallon coated aluminum lobster pot, acts as both HLT and kettle. Very short and wide.
    • Propane banjo burner.
    • 10 gallon cooler MLT (perfectly happy with this)
    • 25' immersion chiller
    • Hop bags during the boil
    • Funnel w/ filter (I pour through it for aeration)
    What I brew:
    • Mostly IPAs and light Belgian styles.
    • Batch sparge or no sparge
    • I prefer whole cone hops, but use pellets when necessary
    • 5-6 gallon batches
    What I'm hoping to achieve:
    • Ability to make really hoppy beers
    • Less lifting
    • Better boil characteristics (boil off/over)
    • Shorter brew day
    What I'm looking for help with:
    • Do I need an HLT?
    • What 15 gallon brew kettle should I get? Stout, Spike, Blichman, Megapot...?
    • Should I get a pump? Which one?
    • Is a plate chiller and hop rocket worth it? Are plate chillers much faster than immersion?
    • What kind of connector should I target? Why?
    • Are hop spiders better than just using a bag?
    Thanks for reading this and for any help you can give me. I hope the bulleted lists made it easier to digest. My questions above are really just what I'm thinking of now. I'd also like to hear about other options, product comparisons, things to think about etc. I'm hoping build this up slowly and only do it once if possible.

    PS, my fermentation setup is fine for now. I have PID heat control during the winter and brew mostly saisons during summer. Stir plate, flasks, etc.
     
  2. jbakajust1

    jbakajust1 Pooh-Bah (2,552) Aug 25, 2009 Oregon
    Pooh-Bah

    A few thoughts for you.
    • I would go for at least 15 gallon SS pots. You may someday want to make an Imperial something or other, or a 10 gallon batch, so buy for that possibility now.
    • I would also get 2 pots, one for a kettle, the other for a fully functional back up kettle that you use as a HLT. I can mash for 10 gallons of beer, sparge (batch) from my HLT, collect all the runnings into one pot, and then split to do separate boils.
    • I don't spend money where I don't have to, and I like to do stuff myself, so I would say there is no reason to compare Stout, Spike, Blichman, MegaPot, etc. I bought a 3 kettle set for $99, all SS, on that sight we don't like to talk about on here. I sourced SS fittings from the same sight that allowed me to make my own weldless fittings for my ballvalve, thermometer, and sightglass. I got 2 kettles with all the fittings for less than one of the name brand kettles will cost. But you have to be willing to build it yourself and scour for deals. And you can just cut out your own thick silicone washers for your fittings from thick walled silicone tubing, then stretch it over the threads.
    • Don't like lifting, you will want one of these, which just happens to be on sale. Then build it into a tool box and get Cam-Lock fittings. They are simple to use, work great, and make connecting and disconnecting extremely easy.
    • Plate chiller is up to you. I would say that if you are going to do any 10 gallon batches in your new, larger kettle, then you will want to upgrade to a different chiller as the 25' IC may not do the trick. I use an IC with whirlpool arm. I have thought about going to a CFC or plate, but at this time, don't really see the benefits. I, personally, think the IC has more benefits that a CFC or plate, and if used correctly can chill better than the others.
     
    scurvy311 and PortLargo like this.
  3. ryane

    ryane Initiate (0) Nov 21, 2007 Washington

    Yes, get one it will make your life much easier
    I like Keggles
    Yes you should, chuggers w/SS heads are great for boiling, other march pumps can be had on evilbay for very cheap (use on mashtun)
    Depends on your water temps, with my current conditions I prefer an IC with boil kettle whirlpool
    That said I have in the past used a CFC with recirc into the kettle, both work well though
    are you talking about for pumps etc? If so I prefer triclamps, but camlocks are nice as well
    why even use anything?? just get a screen in your kettle to stop hop debris

    I would also suggest thinking about electric for at least you HLT. Using a PID to hit exact temps without thinking about it is a great way to go. Adding the electric element to a keg is very easy and there are tons of sites that sell parts and pieces for this now.
     
    telejunkie likes this.
  4. fistfight

    fistfight Initiate (0) Jan 13, 2006 Massachusetts

    Thanks guys for the help.

    I don't know what site you're talking about, but I guess I'll have to start shopping around. I think I prefer normal pots to keggles, with the thought that maybe I could use a induction cook top to make small batches eventually. How difficult is drilling and/or cutting out holes of a SS pot?

    I've heard people complain about screens getting clogged, which I'm trying to avoid. But really, that's not too different than a hop spider, so maybe thats the way to go.

    Yep, I meant for the pumps and kettle connections. What are the advantages to triclamps vs camlocks?

    As for the plate chiller vs CFC or IC, if I wanted to eventually get a hop rocket I'd really need plate chiller to get the most out of it, right?
     
  5. inchrisin

    inchrisin Pooh-Bah (2,013) Sep 25, 2008 Indiana
    Pooh-Bah

  6. jbakajust1

    jbakajust1 Pooh-Bah (2,552) Aug 25, 2009 Oregon
    Pooh-Bah

    The site that has good deals on stuff like this starts w/ an e and ends w/ bay. Drilling the walls of SS kettles isn't hard when you use a stepbit. I got a set from Harbor Freight for less than $15. Just make sure to use a lubricant, I sprayed Olive Oil at the point of contact.

    I realize you asked @ryane but I will chime in. My buddy uses triclamps, I use cam. I prefer the cam as there are no extra parts. In the middle of brew day I don't want to be chasing down rubber gaskets, and fiddling with the clamp connection. Cams are simple, no extra pieces to keep tabs on, and you can lock them in place easily with one hand (my burner can superheat my ball valve, I don't want to touch it to get the fitting on).
     
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  7. ryane

    ryane Initiate (0) Nov 21, 2007 Washington

    Tri-clamps
    Triclamps are the interchangeable, easiest to clean(it is a sanitary fitting), and they provide a rock solid connection that can stand up to heavy mechanical loads.

    They tend to be best in systems that do not need to make a lot of connect-disconnects or where you need lots of mechanical strength. They are also very nice because they can be adapted so many ways without doing anything (you can add sensors, gauges etc. just by taking off the clamp)

    Camlocks
    Are a little cheaper than triclamps and definitely easy for frequently changing hose connections, however they have threaded connections which I prefer to avoid

    I use Triclamps all over my brewing system because I have gone pretty far towards automation (ultrasonic flow meters, PLC, touchscreen, etc, etc) and there are a lot of recirculation loops in my rig (both for whirlpooling and automated CIP) so the Triclover is a bit easier to use for me and also offers better breakdown for cleaning
     
    fistfight likes this.
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