Help needed for setting up inkbird Itc-308 for edgestar kegerator

If I'm understanding your problem correctly, your freezing episodes were when the kegerator was operating solely under it's built-in thermostat's control . . . is that correct?

If in fact the Edgestar's thermostat has given you too cold temps, the Inkbird should fix the problem. A little background: when running, most all kegerators, fridges, freezers put out the maximum amount of cold air the compressor/evaporator can produce. In a freezer this will easily be sub-zero . . . a kegerator, somewhat less. I keep homebrew in my keezer (converted freezer) and it doesn't really matter where I set the unit's built-in thermostat (highest setting is still well below freezing). But the keezer is plugged into an Inkbird which has it's probe in the middle of the kegs. I use a setting of 34 with a differential of 8 . . . beer is a steady 39. The unit cycles on/off about 4 times a day, similar to a conventional home freezer.

Personally I'd pursue warranty options with a defective thermostat. But if you go with the Inkbird I don't see why it wouldn't work, it doesn't care if the host unit is digitally controlled or has an analog knob. Essentially you are unplugging the unit when the temp reaches the set point, then re-plugging it when the temp rises. So maybe just leave the Edgestar at the original 36F. I don't recommend placing probe in water, just a little bit of experimenting will find the best place in unit . . . avoid the walls, try the middle. The compressor delay should be set for maximum (10), the lower numbers are only really used when heating. Ideally you want your unit to cycle like your home fridge, roughly every 45 - 60 minutes (you never notice the milk too hot/cold do you?). This should keep temps steady, but a little fine tuning with the differential may be required, depends on seals, probe placement, air circulation, etc. There's a ton of youtube videos on the subject. Oh yeah, once dialed in, you shouldn't have to touch it for years.

If you really need a pro . . . this Forum keeps a couple on retainer . . .

 

This is a major problem, if it cycles to default 41F your external controller ain't gonna work. I don't see how it could be an evaporator problem as you have too much cooling (evaporator working overtime). Sure sounds like it's a bad controller board or somewhat likely is a faulty temp sensor. If a 34F setting makes the water freeze you might still be okay with a 41F default setting. You're doing it right . . . fill with water and keep an eye on it. Also, keep your ears peeled and try to see how long it runs and cycle rate.

This really should be a warranty fix. If it were out-of-warranty there are a couple of semi-drastic DIY fixes: You could "hard wire" the compressor where it's always on (runs 24/7), then plug into Inky. Also, somewhere there is a "coarse temperature adjustment". On an analog unit it's usually a tiny recessed set-screw that is adjacent to the thermostat knob. By adjusting this set-screw you can change the interior temp 10+ degrees (either way). Essentially you are adjusting the resistance of the circuit which drives the control board. Lots of DIY'ers use this to make a conventional fridge into a fermentation fridge (mid-60s temp). On a digital controller it might be a bugger to find (but pretty sure it's there). I would rely on warranty first. Would be nice if you let the Forum know how Edgestar handles this ....

 

Sucks.
1 last option. Try to relocate the original t-stat temperature unit to a warm spot. If you can un-thread the wire and have it sit outside it will always think it is too warm and will always remain closed (on). This will allow the inkbird to over ride the internal t-stat. l

HVAC repair is typically not even an option with these units. "Our guy" around here does not even travel with recharge equipment anymore because the compressor is built to be disposable. They even bother to fix it, just replace. And that is a $400 fee with parts and labor. Same thing happened to my Frigidiaire about 1 month outside the 1 year cold side warranty, with absolutely no repair or warranty option. That one hurt.

You're not alone. These digital temp controllers found on kegerators are proving to be unreliable and overly complex. Micromatic digital t-stats always fail and I think I see more of them overhauled with a dial T-stat than not Commercial units have a standard Ranco T-stat. Bullet proof. Cheap too. This is $15. Sure it doesn't have cool options and you have to use a thermometer to verify temperature, but they work forever. And when they stop, $15. There ar variations of these but all pretty much the same.

 

If I'm reading this correctly, no matter where you set the temp (or default setting of 41F) the water freezes . . . is that correct? If yes, then you have it made. Simply plug the Edgestar into the Inkbird and let it regulate the compressor on/off.

Don't recommend a 3 min compressor delay. Think about your kitchen fridge. Typically they cycle once an hour or so and run for 10-12 minutes. Can you tell if your milk is hot or cold depending on where you are on the cycle? This is what you're trying to copy and this is what the digital controller was doing before it went tits-up. My room temp is upper 70s and with a diff of 8 the beer temp doesn't flicker (keezer is completely full). A kegerator with an opening door will have a little more leakage, try starting with something like a 6 diff. If your compressor actually cycles every 3 minutes it will not be long for this world.

But don't set 41 on the Inky, rather the lowest temp you want to achieve. If you want a beer temp of 39 try a temp setting of 36 with a 6 differential. Remember, the differential isn't a ± setting . . . it's all plus (cooling) and all minus (heating). Put a thermo in the water bucket and let it stabilize overnight . . . pretty sure you won't see even one degree of liquid temp swing (plus you have a low temp alarm to warn of danger).

 

The t-stat, both the outboard (Inkbird) and internal work the same way.
The circuit is closed (power on) until the set temp is reached. So it cools until it gets to the set temp and then it turns off. then it rises (warms) slowly until it reaches the cut in temp. The cut in temp is the differential.

For example, the temp is set to 38 with a 5 degree differential. The interior air is 50. The compressor stays on until the air cools to 38. It turns off. When the air rises to 43, it is still off. When it rises to 44, the differential has been met and the circuit closes, bringing the compressor on until it gets to 38 and so on.

The outboard temp shuts the system off by cutting all power at the receptacle. Same as if it were unplugged. The internal t-stat opens the circuit to the compressor, open meaning the flow of juice is interrupted, and the compressor is off. The light is on a different circuit though and that does stay on.

IF the internal t-stat gets to the set temperate before the Inkbird, 41 in this instance, it will turn off the compressor. We want the internal t- stat to never reach its set turn off temp. The Inkbird will cut off the power.

So, if you can make the internal t-stat forever detect warm temps it will always think it is too warm and it will always keep the compressor on. Until the Ink bird takes over and shuts down everything.

Cheers.

 

It says 41 but it is not terribly accurate. As in, it is reading 41 or within it's +/- range, which could be a degree or 2 easily. And it is reading air temp where the probe is, which may not be the same as the liquid. Lastly the cold plate is much much colder than 41, so if the bucket is against the plate it will pull heat from the water quickly and begin to freeze, even at 41 air temp.
Cheers.

 

The other thing you could do to solve this is take the digital tstat out of the loop, and essentially hot wire the compressor so that it's always on. If the unit were plugged into a regular outlet this wouldn't be a solution, but since you are using the inkbird it will be controlling the power based on it's thermostat. I think your hardware other than the tstat is working.

 

You've nailed it. But I'm not a fan of placing the probe in water, IMO it's easier to regulate the air and overall have your temp closer to target. Placed in water you are going to have a minimum of 1° swing. Try dangling Mr. Probe between your kegs about half way up.

Also, if your compressor is cycling every 6 mins you have a problem. You want to adjust diff so that it cycles every 45 - 60 minutes. Your variables are room temp, quality of seals, how often you open, full or empty, probe location, and probably a slight error in the probe. After a few days you'll dial it in. The top scale of the Inky shows actual air temp inside unit. Occasionally it will dip below the lowest setting, a result of residual cooling after compressor stops. This is of no consequence, it'll self-correct in a minute or two.

Beg or borrow a good kitchen thermo and take a few water temps (and ultimately beer temps).

 

I don't use the Inkbird, but the differential refers to the spread between on/off. The delay refers to the time allowed between cycles. This is to prevent motor burn out.

The delay is a timer that is reset every time the compressor turns off. So if the temperature rises to the cut in (on) set point but the delay has not been met, the t-stat will not cycle the compressor. This extends the life of the compressor. Starting a compressor requires a lot more energy than keeping it spinning. Like starting a bicycle.
Cheers.

 

Let it ride for now imo.

All that liquid will hold temp much better than the air.

Also, the more you screw with one leg of the stool the harder it is to figure out the other two legs, resistance and pressure. First, 38F beer. Then the other 2 if needed.