homebrew kegging; a few questions

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by utahbeerdude, Apr 11, 2013.

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  1. slickerryan

    slickerryan Initiate (0) Aug 20, 2009 Pennsylvania

    I fill my keg 1/4th of the way with hot water and some oxyclean and use a brush to scrub then shake. I then spray sarsan into it an roll it around. I never disconnect anything and never had a problem in 3 years of doing it this way. Saves time and energy.
     
  2. PortLargo

    PortLargo Pooh-Bah (1,831) Oct 19, 2012 Florida
    Pooh-Bah

    I try not to give unsolicited advice, but about 4 months ago I was on the verge of taking the kegging plunge . . . right where you are now. Here are a couple of suggestions to areas you did not bring up:

    1. I asked for and received some pretty good advice on Quick Disconnect fittings. Consensus was go MFL instead of barb ends. I did this and it has worked well. You end up buying lots of swivel nuts, but that's much more manageable than the barb'ed method.

    2. Here is a very simple homemade "test guage". It's a spare gauge ($8-10) threaded into 1/4" NPT x 1/4" MFL ($2, Home Depot), then a short piece of hose is clamped onto swivel nuts:

    [​IMG]

    This is normally left connected to a gas QD. I pressurize all new keg/line-fittings/couplers and make sure they hold pressure for 48 hours. You are gonna have leaks, this lets you trouble shoot your system before you add the beer.

    3. Upgrade to Oetiker clamps. These are the single ear clamps seen above. It only cost 80% more to go first class . . . respect your beer.
     
  3. utahbeerdude

    utahbeerdude Maven (1,374) May 2, 2006 Utah

    Thanks for the info!

    1. Yeah, I decided to go with MFL fittings rather than barbs.
    2. I'll definitely put together the gauge setup; nice picture.
    3. Also, already decided to go with the Oetiker clamps.
     
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