Hop Stand Temperature

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by inchrisin, May 10, 2016.

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  1. inchrisin

    inchrisin Pooh-Bah (2,013) Sep 25, 2008 Indiana
    Pooh-Bah

    After reading @psnydez86 last thread on his IPA*, I got to wondering how people do their hop stands. I know that I've got pretty low caliber brewing equipment. I have an SP-10 burner with a kettle that has no spigot. I generally just add a KO hop addition and let it sit for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. The temperature range would be from 211F to 160F, depending on the outside temps. I just read that Pat takes his wort down to 170F, adds hops and lets it drop from there.

    I know I'm isomerizing the hops for a little while. I can't get under the burner to relight it with the kettle on top. I won't keep 170F like some guys with tiers or electric. I'm curious to see which way you guys would err on temperature.

    I isomerize, which sucks.

    Dropping below 160F is getting down past pasteurization temperature, which sucks.


    *Ref: http://www.beeradvocate.com/community/threads/incidental-anecdotal-hoppy-finding.414940/
     
    #1 inchrisin, May 10, 2016
    Last edited: May 10, 2016
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  2. hoptualBrew

    hoptualBrew Initiate (0) May 29, 2011 Florida

    I wouldn't worry about pasteurization. Hops contain enough antimicrobial properties to not introduce anything into your wort. Especially if your pitching a healthy culture within an hour of knockout, I wouldn't worry one bit about it.
     
  3. stb08007

    stb08007 Initiate (0) May 28, 2014 Connecticut

    I've had good results chilling to 170, hop standing at that temp for 30 minutes, and continuing to chill after. No added bitterness, no infection issues.
     
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  4. hoptualBrew

    hoptualBrew Initiate (0) May 29, 2011 Florida

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  5. GormBrewhouse

    GormBrewhouse Pooh-Bah (2,111) Jun 24, 2015 Vermont
    Pooh-Bah

    I have an immersion chiller, so after adding FO hops I run the water to cool the wort while turning down the flame, but not turning it off. Takes some doing, but I vary the temp from 150 to 175. Not perfect, but between the heating and cooling I get a good result.
     
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  6. Supergenious

    Supergenious Maven (1,273) May 9, 2011 Michigan

    I use immersion chiller too. I add hops at flameout, then turn water on for chiller. But after a couple minutes (when temp gets below 200f), I turn off water. I let it sit for 15 minutes or so. The temp continues to drop to 170-180, even with water off.
     
  7. GormBrewhouse

    GormBrewhouse Pooh-Bah (2,111) Jun 24, 2015 Vermont
    Pooh-Bah

    I brew outside, so if it's cool or cold I got to have the heat on or my stand goes below 150 after I chilled the wort to 170 in 10 minutes.
     
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  8. corm44

    corm44 Pundit (847) Aug 28, 2014 New York
    Trader

    Yeah, I also use my immersion chiller to bring the temp down to about 180, then I shut the water off, put the hops in and put the lid on my pot. usually after about a 30 minute hop stand my temp is somewhere between 160 and 175, depending on what the temperature outside is
     
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  9. psnydez86

    psnydez86 Initiate (0) Jan 4, 2012 Pennsylvania

    @inchrisin ive done beers with nothing but a hop stand. Added hops at FO without chilling for 10-15. Then another addition of hops after that (usually around 170-185F while naturally chilling). Depending on the amount of hops it definitely adds a lot of bitterness, and makes a very hop focused beer.

    In brewing software I'll count FO hops without chilling as "boiled" hop additions to estimate my IBUs and I feel that Gets me in a good ball park for bitterness sakes.

    I have a very similar setup to you. Fancy brewing ewuipment is pretty far down on my list of beer wants.
     
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  10. OldSock

    OldSock Maven (1,418) Apr 3, 2005 District of Columbia

    I don't add late-boil hops to most hop-forward beers, so I like to add the hop-stand hops right at flame-out... hops. However, I tried pre-chilling the wort for an IPA and didn't notice an appreciable difference in the wort before dry hopping.

    Last weekend I did brew a couple hoppy sours and used a lower temperature hop-stand to reduce the amount of bitterness, and hopefully the anti-microbial properties extracted.
     
  11. mbbransc

    mbbransc Initiate (0) Mar 24, 2009 North Carolina

    I generally add hops at flameout but immediately begin chilling and whirlpooling. Once wort is chilled to ~170°, I'll kill the water, add more hops and wait ~20min. Then finish chilling to pitch temps.
     
  12. GormBrewhouse

    GormBrewhouse Pooh-Bah (2,111) Jun 24, 2015 Vermont
    Pooh-Bah

    So what would be an average mount of hops add?
     
  13. psnydez86

    psnydez86 Initiate (0) Jan 4, 2012 Pennsylvania

    @GormBrewhouse the amount of hops would depend on what you were going for. I'll post a pic of a recipe that I did that turned out really good. I have the hop additions listed as 7 minute additions but the hops were dropped in when the flame went out and were allowed to sit hot for 7-9 minutes. Then I chilled to 170 for a longer cooler rest.
    This hop level was very intense and enjoyable to me, but of course YMMV.

    [​IMG]
     
  14. smokinop

    smokinop Initiate (0) Jun 5, 2014 Georgia

    I turn off the flame & using my immersion chiller, chill to 180 then add my 2oz. of hops. I let it sit uncovered for 30 minutes, then go through my normal chilling routine.
     
  15. GormBrewhouse

    GormBrewhouse Pooh-Bah (2,111) Jun 24, 2015 Vermont
    Pooh-Bah

  16. anteater

    anteater Pooh-Bah (1,936) Sep 10, 2012 Oregon
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    I throw flameout hops in a minute after taking the kettle off the burner and let them sit for just a couple minutes before I start chilling. Then I stop at ~160, add my hopstand hops and let those sit for 30 min uncovered, while stirring every 5 minutes. Happy with the results.
     
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  17. invertalon

    invertalon Pooh-Bah (2,249) Jan 27, 2009 Ohio
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    The past two or three IPA’s I have brewed had fairly hefty hop stands between 160-170F for 30-45mins. And all of those beers ended up hazy/turbid and never cleared in the keg. Recently Brülosophy did a test between a hop stand vs. late boiling additions (http://brulosophy.com/2016/05/02/hop-stand-vs-20-minute-boil-addition-exbeeriment-results/) and their hop stand beer ended up hazy as well. Taste test wise, looks like there was no real difference.

    My next IPA I am going for clarity (along with speeding up my brew day) so I will be eliminating the hop stand… Using a 10min addition as my last. Of course, still doing a dry hop for aroma/flavor. But I want to see if this will bring clarity back to my IPA’s and the bitter “punch” I want in my IPA. My recent DIPA with nearly 17oz of hops for 5-gallon (including 3oz Columbus for bittering ~ 170 theoretical IBU) ended up being bitter, but not in-your-face. Took my beer to a homebrew meeting and it got really fantastic feedback from everyone (especially it’s dank quality from all the Columbus/Simcoe), but nobody really thought it was that bitter as the recipe would suggest. Even my water profile (300ppm sulfate and like 20ppm chloride) was fairly robust for bitterness perception. The thought with everyone was that the immense hop stand actually had a “softening” effect on the perceived bitterness, which I tend to agree with. It’s the only thing that made sense with that beer, recipe wise. Love the end result, but I do wish it was less “juicy” and more west-coast style bitter.
     
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  18. 1beerbaron

    1beerbaron Initiate (0) Mar 24, 2009 Ohio

    I have found a huge difference in hop stand vs flame out hops. Enough that I've continued doing it.

    I chill to below 180 F (whirlpool immersion chiller). Then I stop chilling, but keep recirculating, and add my hops. After 20-30 minutes, I'll finish chilling. The big point of getting below 180 F is to stop isomerization. I want it higher to extract flavors, but lower than 180 F.
     
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