So I was reading that Myrcene has a boiling temperature of 147 degrees F and was wondering if after flame out, dropping the wort down to say 140-145 degrees and holding it there for say 30 mins would then be the best way to keep as much Myrcene oil in the wort as possible? Also what is the best way to create a whirlpool in a DIY way, like with a drill and degasser?
Yes if you want to minimize the amount of any hop oil you flash off you would add it to wort that was below its boiling temperature. The risks of doing hop stands at temperatures below 180F include reformation of DMS and potential bacteria spoilage. I've experienced the former once or twice although I have not experienced the latter. And I've done this at temperatures as low as 110F personally. I don't think I'd use a drill and degasser to form a whirlpool since, the goal is really to get the wort moving around outer portion of the kettle. You'd be better off just stirring with a mash paddle while minimizing splashing. I do it at work when brewing on the 20g morebeer tippy brew sculpture and it is simple. Stir the wort around the outside perimeter of the boil kettle with a mash paddle for 3 - 5 minutes and then let it rest for 20 - 25 minutes. Results in a very nice trub / hop pile in the center of the kettle.
Myrcene flash point is 103°F. Dry-hopping may be the better approach. http://www.ahaconference.org/wp-content/uploads/presentations/2010/Hop_Quality-James_Altweis.pdf
That is why dry hopping works. Rubbing hops between your hands releases the aroma, as the heat of the hands and friction release some of those oils. Some have said about the only way to get Myrcene into the beer is dry hopping.
@hopfenunmaltz, have you seen any studies yet done by homebrewers facing off different whirlpool temps? I've done one, but it was a two-stage whirlpool addition vs. single stage addition (FO & 180F addition vs. 180F addition). The results from it were enough to keep me adding hops just after flameout and holding for about 20 minutes prior to cooling to 180F. If you don't want to dry hop, then yes, a low temp, long duration hop stand would be advisable to get some myrcene, but I'm not sure myrcene would subsequently be easily scrubbed out during active fermentation (either via yeast flocculation or CO2 scrubbing)
I have not seen any studies. One guy I know who was doing a lower temp stand liked the results and wins many awards, and is BJCP Master level, so I trust his assesment.
Works for me. I like 15-20 minutes at 160-170°F b/c it's hot enough and long enough to pasteurize the addition. Whether pellet pasteurization is beneficial or even necessary is another question but it helps me sleep through the night.
@koopa , ever play with a hop back in commercial setting? This thread has me wanting to do a Randal type filter packed with hops inline between wort chiller and fermenter.
interesting...never tried a low temp hop stand, not even 150F. You were referencing that one at 110F above, correct?
