Hopburst schedule recommendations

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by inchrisin, Feb 8, 2014.

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  1. inchrisin

    inchrisin Pooh-Bah (2,013) Sep 25, 2008 Indiana
    Pooh-Bah

    I'm going to set up my first hopburst beer for tomorrow. It'll be an APA with Nottingham yeast and American hops. It's looking something like this:

    11# Crisp MO
    1# Munich
    .5# carapils
    .5# crystal 40 (maybe 60 instead)

    Mash @150 for 60+ min

    Hop schedule:

    2 oz Amarillo @ 20 min
    1 oz Simcoe
    .5 oz Centennial

    2 oz Amarillo @15
    1 oz Simcoe
    .5 oz Centennial

    1 oz Amarillo @ 10 min
    .5 oz Simcoe
    .25 oz Centennial

    1 oz Amarillo @ 5 min
    .5 oz Simcoe
    .25 oz Centennial


    1 oz Amarillo @ KO
    .5 oz Simcoe
    .25 oz Centennial

    I'll probably dry hop with an oz of each.

    Any suggestions for how many oz to use or how to schedule them? I'm thinking I need something close to a bittering hop and the biggest dose should be around the 20 min mark. After that it's to keep it going and use up some of these open containers of hops.

    How well do hopburst beers age? Any worse than those that have a 60 min or a FWH addtion?
     
  2. Robtobfest

    Robtobfest Initiate (0) Oct 21, 2009 Connecticut

    First of all you don't want to age this beer. I don't know how bitter you would want this beer but if you don't want it better I would stick with the first addition being about 20 minutes. Although the amount of hops that you're adding a 20 will certainly add some bitterness. I did a hot bursted IPA. I started at 10 minutes down I would recommend adding the most hops after KO. I did 2 ounces at knock out but only about an ounce and a half before that. Then I dry hopped it with about 3 ounces. It was awesome.
     
  3. nickfl

    nickfl Initiate (0) Mar 7, 2006 Florida

    You don't need a bittering addition with that amount of late hops. Personally I haven't experienced any benefit from spreading the additions out into as many separate points as you have, I'd just to a 15, 5 and flame out. Keep the 15 min addition as is, double the 5 min and double or triple the flameout addition. Also give it 4-6oz of dry hops after primary fermentation is finished. Now, if you really want an APA you have way too much hop character going into it, but if you are shooting for an APA in the sense that Zombie dust and the like are "Pale Ales" then this should be about right.
     
  4. SFACRKnight

    SFACRKnight Grand Pooh-Bah (3,348) Jan 20, 2012 Colorado
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    I'll dissent yet again. I like to use a FWH for my ibu's, then do hop additions from 10 minutes in every 5 minutes. I start with a 10 minute charge of copious aamounts and step each addition up by .5 oz each time. my last hop bursted pale had 1oz of cascade and amarillo at 10 minutes, 1.5 of each at 5 minutes, 2oz amarillo and 4oz cascade cones at flameout. I did a primary dryhop on the yeast after hitting terminal gravity for a week, racked to secondary and dryhopped again for a week in secondary. I used 2oz of cascade and 1oz amarillo for each dryhop event for a total of 6oz dryhop additions. I will be bottling tomorrow and will give some tasting notes, but when I went to secondary it was the second hoppiest beer I have ever done. I can't tell you how to hop your beer, I don't know what you like in a beer, but I can tell you the later in the boil you add hops the more flavor and aroma is kept, but you need to use more to get it.
    Edit: I forgot to touch on bittering. Crap. The one beer I left the bittering charge out of tasted funny. I like to use the fwh addition as it lends a more subtle bitterness to the beer that works well with hopbursting. I really missed the bitterness though and won't ever go down that rabbit hole again.
     
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  5. inchrisin

    inchrisin Pooh-Bah (2,013) Sep 25, 2008 Indiana
    Pooh-Bah

    I'm not putting labels on it. :slight_smile: The beer can be a Double American Pale Ale.

    How many IBUs did you get from your FWH? Did you keep it low, or was it the standard 40-60 IUBs that you usually throw in with an APA-IPA?
     
  6. SFACRKnight

    SFACRKnight Grand Pooh-Bah (3,348) Jan 20, 2012 Colorado
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    I estimated my addition asa 60 minute addition for 50 ibus, but it tasted like 40ish.
     
  7. GreenKrusty101

    GreenKrusty101 Initiate (0) Dec 4, 2008 Nevada

    FWH AND hop burst for a luscious and economical combination.
     
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  8. inchrisin

    inchrisin Pooh-Bah (2,013) Sep 25, 2008 Indiana
    Pooh-Bah


    I'm actually trying to burn up about a pound of hops before they go bad. :slight_smile:
     
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  9. SFACRKnight

    SFACRKnight Grand Pooh-Bah (3,348) Jan 20, 2012 Colorado
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    5oz@flameout 5oz dryhop, 3oz at ten, 3oz @ five if you want to burn thrrough them...
     
  10. GreenKrusty101

    GreenKrusty101 Initiate (0) Dec 4, 2008 Nevada

    Well, by all means...light those hops on fire with $100 bills :slight_smile:
     
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  11. PortLargo

    PortLargo Pooh-Bah (1,831) Oct 19, 2012 Florida
    Pooh-Bah

    I've brewed Jamil's Evil Twin which is all late hops and it did not impress me. So I'm back to early additions, have tried FWH but can not really tell a difference. My recommendation is to have something in the boil at 60+ minutes. BTW, your Simcoe is an excellent bittering hop. It has very low co-humulone levels which eliminates the harshness in bittering (if you're into smoothness).

    I've done the 20/15/10/5/0 additions but really believe something like 15/5/0 would accomplish the same. A purist might insist on the longer schedule and it certainly can't harm. One suggestion a judge gave me as a fault with most IPAs is "they have very little hop taste/aroma". With your surplus of hops you can easily deal with this.

    My final suggestion is to DH more than the conventional 6-7 days. I've gone to 12-14 days with 2/3 of the hops initially and 1/3 to wrap it up (Russian River technique) . . . this seems to work.

    Edit: Ditto on hopfenunmaltz's whirlpool ideas.
     
    #11 PortLargo, Feb 9, 2014
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2014
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  12. hopfenunmaltz

    hopfenunmaltz Pooh-Bah (2,635) Jun 8, 2005 Michigan
    Pooh-Bah

    Try FWH, and everything else in after flameout, a big charge of hops, Whirlpool. Add more at a lower temp 170, 150, 110 your choice. Whirlpool some more. Ferment then dry hop.

    If you FWH keep the wort at 170F for more than a few minutes. One of my brewing gurus keeps his at that temp for an hour. He goes in to have an early lunch during that time.
     
  13. FATC1TY

    FATC1TY Pooh-Bah (2,564) Feb 12, 2012 Georgia
    Pooh-Bah

    I would also, second, or third, or even fourth the FWH combo.

    Hit it with some good FWH combo, and then leave it alone until around 10 min. Hit it at 10-5-0 and then a hopstand around 170-160 degrees. Chill it down and be done with it until a hefty DH.

    It worked good for me, because I make my sparge slow and long. Let it steep, and then I get the whole 15-20 minutes before a good hard boil starts. Do a 60-90 boil, and roll with it.

    Along with @PortLargo I would also do slightly larger DH at cooler temps. I've found it holds back the vegetal flavors and really keeps it all together, while allowing me to carb it in the keg if applicable.

    Works well for me!
     
  14. inchrisin

    inchrisin Pooh-Bah (2,013) Sep 25, 2008 Indiana
    Pooh-Bah

    Dang. I thought that hopbursting would be bit different. It sounds like you guys have pulled me back into a slightly modified IPA schedule. :slight_smile: I know the beer will be good. I guess I just thought that there were good beers out there that only had late hop additions.
     
  15. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    I wouldn't be discouraged from doing an all late hop beer. You've already brewed one that is damn close, the APA IPA. The bittering addition in that was almost trivial and most people would be hard pressed to tell the difference if it had just been omitted.
     
  16. mikehartigan

    mikehartigan Maven (1,421) Apr 9, 2007 Illinois

    I think some of you are missing the point of hop-bursting. If you add a bittering charge at 60 mins or FWH, then you're not hop-bursting, by the commonly understood definition - you're simply using a variation of a traditional hop schedule.

    With hop-bursting, all of the bittering comes from the late additions. For example, if you're shooting for, say, 60 IBU, you may be able to get it from 1 oz of X at 60 mins, then 4 oz of Y at 20, 15, 10, and 5. You'll use 5 oz of hops total, 4 oz of which provides primarily flavor/aroma. With hop-bursting, it may take 12 oz of Y to get you to 60 IBU if you add them at 20, 15, 10, 5, but you'll get 12 oz of flavor/aroma (!!!). That's the whole point of hop bursting. You want the hops to hit you like a mule kick in the face when you take your first sip.

    (Obviously, there are a lot of factors, but I've simplified it for the sake of illustration)
     
  17. GreenKrusty101

    GreenKrusty101 Initiate (0) Dec 4, 2008 Nevada

    hop-bursting...another all-or-nothing fad (see also, SMASH) :slight_smile:
     
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  18. ryane

    ryane Initiate (0) Nov 21, 2007 Washington

    Mash hops!!
     
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  19. inchrisin

    inchrisin Pooh-Bah (2,013) Sep 25, 2008 Indiana
    Pooh-Bah

    I wimped out and added 2.4 oz of Wilamette at 60 min

    1 oz Amarillo @ 5
    1 oz Centennial

    1 oz Amarillo @ KO
    1 oz Cascade

    Hop stand for about 15 minutes and pitched @ 70 with US 05. It smells amazing. I'm a little nervous about how well Wilamette will play with the piny and fruity hops.
     
  20. hopfenunmaltz

    hopfenunmaltz Pooh-Bah (2,635) Jun 8, 2005 Michigan
    Pooh-Bah

    You can dump all of the hops in the whirlpool, then dry hop. Can't get much later than that - no hops in the boil!
     
    GreenKrusty101 likes this.
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