how to avoid oxidation

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by corbmoster, Sep 10, 2016.

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  1. corbmoster

    corbmoster Pundit (848) Dec 15, 2014 Texas
    Trader

    A while ago, I brewed a blonde and when I siphoned it to the keg, the racking cane had a hairline crack. Since then the beer has oxidized. It is darker than when I took the FG. The flavors are duller. It has kind of a caramel-ness to it, but not in a good way. So now that I've had 'what oxidation tastes like' thrown in my face more or less, it got me thinking that I've been having oxidation issues quite a bit. What are some ways you can limit it? Doing a closed transfer is a good idea. carefully controlling the racking cane to not take in air. Not letting your beer sit in a bucket / better bottle for too long is another obvious. What are some common (or not so common) ways you or others oxidize their beer, and how can they be avoided?
     
  2. invertalon

    invertalon Pooh-Bah (2,249) Jan 27, 2009 Ohio
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    I personally do not let the beer sit in primary longer than it has to, doing any additional conditioning in the keg. No secondaries. Also, I put a spigot on my fermenting bucket so I can eliminate the use of a racking cane. I simply just attach my tubing, open up and transfer without any agitation with surrounding air into a purged keg.

    Once in the keg, I purge the headspace probably 10 times. Try to make sure all the oxygen is out that I can.

    No issue yet with oxidation and my beers. My two month old IPA's have the same color, bright hop aroma and flavor, etc... It's been working well for me. I think a spigot on a bucket fermenter is a stupid easy way to make life easier, personally. Also easy to get hydro readings as well as the beer ferments away.
     
    GetMeAnIPA and corbmoster like this.
  3. Supergenious

    Supergenious Maven (1,273) May 9, 2011 Michigan

    I think think using a 1/2" racking cane can help some (as opposed to 3/8"). As Invertalon mentioned, fermenting in bucket with spigot works nice too. You keg and still get oxidation? I actually find that hard to do.
     
  4. billandsuz

    billandsuz Pooh-Bah (2,097) Sep 1, 2004 New York
    Pooh-Bah

    I do all racking at my keezer and have tubing on a low pressure regulator so I can purge everything with CO2. A few blasts of gas into the bucket for example. Blowing off the headspace of a carboy. Anywhere oxygen might be present is replaced with heavier CO2. I also try to be careful to not disturb the layer of CO2 that is present above fermenting beer. Oping the bucket etc.
     
  5. CADETS3

    CADETS3 Initiate (0) Dec 3, 2014 Texas

    You have to be doing something rather strange. I think that I made approximately 70 batches before I started doing closed transfers. I never had *significant* signs of oxidation when I bottled or kegged, if any. The bucket method with a spigot is a good way of getting away from using the auto siphon as mentioned by @invertalon if you do continue to use the siphon, make sure there isn't any turbulence in the hose. @corbmoster did you get away from doing closed transfers??
     
  6. corbmoster

    corbmoster Pundit (848) Dec 15, 2014 Texas
    Trader

    No @CADETS3 , I don't get to brew very frequently. Since that first closed transfer, I have only brewed one beer and it's in the fermenter. I'm just asking how others have oxidized their beer, and what they did to stop it. Like if we were to make a guide: how to not oxidize your beer.
     
  7. brunascle

    brunascle Crusader (438) Nov 4, 2010 Massachusetts

    I've had oxidation issues for a while now, and (fingers crossed) I think with my latest batch (AP NE IPA) I may have finally solved them. But I've made so many changes I dont know which ones were key. But here they are:

    - I replaced all my plastic: fermentor, bottling bucket, tubing, siphon, spigot, bottling wand
    - I stopped using an auto-siphon post-fermentaion and used a regular siphon with the sanitizer method (there's a YouTube video)
    - I minimized the time I kept the fermentor open when adding dry hops, taking gravity readings, or transfering
    - I avoided moving the fermentor unnecessarily to prevent splashing. That includes keeping it on my first floor. I used to move it to my third floor where it's warmer to encourage full attenuation.

    I also put half the bottles in the fridge once done carbonating in case none of the above worked, intending to drink that half last. But today, after 3 weeks, I compared one of the bottles from that half to a bottle that was only in the fridge 24 hours and the difference was negligible. The 24 hour bottle was only slightly darker and I couldnt taste a difference. Neither had the characteristic caramelly flavor I've come to dread.
     
    thatche2 likes this.
  8. hopfenunmaltz

    hopfenunmaltz Pooh-Bah (2,635) Jun 8, 2005 Michigan
    Pooh-Bah

    there was a really good presentation on avoiding oxidation at the NHC, and it is online at the AHA site if you an AHA member.
     
  9. GreenKrusty101

    GreenKrusty101 Initiate (0) Dec 4, 2008 Nevada

    To prevent oxidation: Use good standard homebrewing techniques...especially for xfers and packaging...and of course, drink beer conditioned, but fresh, unless the style dictates otherwise.
     
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