I was starting to look at kegging systems...

Not all freezers are created equal. Make sure to measure the usable footprint and its shape to determine how many kegs you can fit. It can end up being exercise in geometry. One trick is to cut some circles out of paper (the same diameter as the base of a keg) and lay these out in the bottom of the freezer. Make sure the circles fit comfortably.

Also, check out the height. Most chest freezers are tall enough for standard corny kegs and associated hardware, but if you plan on using the freezer's hump, you will probably need to add a "collar" (possibly a very tall one) between the body and the lid to add height. (A collar is also a good place to put the faucets.)

 

This is first: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=75449 Seriously. Cut out about 5 of these. Take them anywhere you go to look at freezers and USE THEM.

If you're going with a freezer you're building a collar. Cool?

Then you decide if you collar needs to be extended so you can fit a keg on the motor hump of the freezer. It's the difference between working with 2x4s or 6x8s, step stools, and a pain in your back.

Are you tapping the back of the keezer for CO2 lines or are you putting the CO2 tank in the keezer? You'll want another cardboard cutout for the CO2 tank if it's going inside the keezer.

1 carbonation level or 2? Or more?

Lots to consider and I strongly recommend you post your "I'm about to pull the trigger and here's my grocery list" on this thread or a new thread before you spend your $500.

 

Buy ONCE.

 

I just built one and I recommend double-hinging the collar so you can open the lid for easy access and also lift the collar to preserve your back and get the lines out of the way when lugging kegs. Does not take much more work.

 

I did the same thing on my keezer, very glad I did.

 

Yes. Here is a pic of the hinges on the back of mine. Just a simple door hinge on top for the freezer lid. I attached rubber weatherstripping to both sides of the wood collar using liquid nails for a good seal. Works great.

 

I did exactly the same as @Buck89, but I just kept the existing seal on the lid, weather stripping between the freezer and the collar. 6 years later, still works great.

 

Keezer/kegerator threads come up a lot. Here is what I wrote in a recent thread; which can be found here:

http://www.beeradvocate.com/community/threads/building-a-keezer-any-tips.371343/page-2#post-4390017



I did a 6" pine inner collar with an 8" red oak outer collar. The extra 2" overlaps the top of the keezer. Nice mitred corners are a must.

I installed a 65 CFM computer fan at the top pointing down to recirculate cold air. The bottom of the keezer was dead on temp, but the top can get 4-8 degrees warmer as there are no cooling coils up there. And that's where beer is sitting in the beer lines. In case anyone is having odd issues with foam- this may be the culprit.

I insulated the collar with 1.5" foam insulation cut to fit around all the equipment. R15 value I believe.

I don't have issues getting kegs in and out- but my wife uses a step ladder and it helps her a lot when changing a keg.

I got a rechargeable dehumidifier Instead of those refillable ones that can spill.

I hung the drip trays with slotted metal strips hanging from the backside of the collar above and strong ass rare earth magnets to hold them steady below.

Doing it this way I didn't have to modify the freezer chest with drilling or glueing so if I ever need to I can uninstall the collar and it is just a regular old freezer chest again. This helps if you have problems and need to go the warranty route or if it dies it's easy to retrofit to another chest.

I built my own temp controller and installed it into the side of the collar.

I have room for about five (5) gallon corny's, one (8) Gallon Sanke and two (3) Gallon Corny's. I also have some more 8 gallon kegs, and one 16 gallon keg I can fit in with a few corny's- but I forget the exact number/layout. I have 6 Co2 and 2 Nitro taps. I have room to add a few more if needed.

I plumbed the gas through the back of the collar and leave the Co2 and Nitro taps on the outside with mounting brackets attached to the collar to hold them steady.

There is a good write up over at homebrew academy with videos and turtorials if you need help it's a great resource- one of the best I've found in the interwebs.