Infections and Suggestions

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by counciloak, Dec 11, 2015.

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  1. counciloak

    counciloak Initiate (0) Aug 28, 2015 Indiana

    Hello All. I'm looking for a little advice on an infection issue I've been having. I'm somewhat new to homebrewing (7 batches in). My first four were all extract/partial mash and they came out great. I was really happy and excited about my new hobby. At that point I decided to switch to all grain.

    I bought an Igloo cooler converted mash tun, with a false bottom. This is also where my problems started.

    1st all grain: Belgian Blonde Ale FG 1.005 ~ 91% attenuation. In my naivety I thought I was the king! Waited a couple weeks to carbonate and then opened one and realized that I just made 45 bottles of vinegary ass water. Thought there was maybe a mash PH issue

    2nd: Pale Ale FG 1.006 ~ 89% attenuation. Again, more ass water. I used 5.2 stabilizer so that was ruled out. I still couldn't figure out the problem.

    3rd: Double IPA FG 1.017 ~ 78.9% attenuation. This time I cracked the first bottle and sniffed. I immediately got that wild ale yeast smell from it. This beer was also ruined

    At this point I realized that I must be getting an infection from my equipment. I use a plastic bucket for primary, then a glass carboy for secondary, and a plastic bottling bucket. I use scent free soap for cleaning and star-san to kill the bugs. everything gets sanitized before it touches post boil beer. I've cooked professionally for 17 years and I understand the importance of sanitation. My guess is that my plastic fermenter has some scratches inside where that yeast is hiding out, so I'm no longer going to use this item. This, however, leaves me with some questions for some of you more experienced brewers.

    1. Could I also be getting an infection from the bottling bucket? My guess is that it is not the issue because my attenuation is off the charts, and this sample is taken before any beer hits the bucket.

    2. I am looking to make a batch using just my glass carboy and have no second fermentation. I would like it to be something that would ferment and be ready to bottle fairly quickly. I don't want to spend a bunch of my time on infected beer. So I am looking for suggestions on style or guidelines on a recipe for something that would cater to this, just as a test to find the yeast infecting culprit.

    3. Maybe there is something else that I missed causing the problem. Do you guys have any further suggestions?

    Thanks in advance for advice with this problem. The BA forums have been an awesome resource for me , even before I joined on. You guys are great!

    Cheers
     
  2. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    Well, it sure sounds like you are having infection issues and the high attenuation rates after primary fermentation seems to indicate that the infection is occurring during the fermentation process. Do you smell/taste the beers after fermentation has completed (e.g., the hydrometer sample)?

    Hopefully a new fermenter will be the fix?

    Best of luck.

    Cheers!
     
    counciloak likes this.
  3. counciloak

    counciloak Initiate (0) Aug 28, 2015 Indiana

    Yes I always taste the samples. I remember from the first batches that the sample always had a cidery/ vinegary taste to them. I just thought this was due to the fact that the beer was young and didn't condition long enough. So getting this in the all grain batches didn't surprise me.
     
  4. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    Yes, you could. But that would take longer to show up than if the infection was happening earlier in the process. Have you tasted your beer before bottling by any chance? If it didn't taste infected at bottling, but did after a just a couple weeks of carbonation... maybe leave your next batch in the primary/secondary longer than normal, and see if you still get the off flavor at bottling time. If you do, you'll know it's happening in the primary or secondary fermenter.

    That would be sort of the opposite of what I'm suggesting above, but if you decide to go this way, pretty much anything low gravity, fermented at a not particularly cool temp (within reason), could work for a quick fermentation. Maybe a bitter, or a mild, or a hefe.
     
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  5. VikeMan

    VikeMan Grand Pooh-Bah (3,067) Jul 12, 2009 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah

    I would say that you should never taste Vinegar in a non infected batch. Cidery (as in apple cider) is different. Which were you tasting in your early batches, and which were you tasting in your later batches? Sometimes people describe acetaldehyde as cidery, though I thing "green apple" describes it better. Acetaldehyde is often a sign of a beer that needs more time with the yeast to clean it up.
     
  6. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    IMO that indicates an infection which occurred during the primary fermentation phase.

    Cheers!
     
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  7. Brew_Betty

    Brew_Betty Initiate (0) Jan 5, 2015 Wisconsin

    Plastic fermentors can produce clean beers for many years. How are you cleaning your fermentor? Which soap are you using? Do you use a scrub pad or brush? How do you prepare your starsan? Do you check the pH of the starsan before using it?
     
  8. counciloak

    counciloak Initiate (0) Aug 28, 2015 Indiana

    I did this with the last batch, the double IPA. I think it fermented for close to a month total. This was about two weeks longer than normal for me. Didn't seem to alter my results though. Thanks for the advice
     
  9. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    I have used plastic bucket fermenters for over a decade with no problems. My cleaning regime is wiping the krausen ring off with a wet paper towel under a 'stream' of hot water in my utility basin.

    Needless to say but I sanitize the bucket prior to primary fermentation.

    Cheers!
     
  10. counciloak

    counciloak Initiate (0) Aug 28, 2015 Indiana

    I just use a scent free off brand detergent. I may have, at one point, taken a plastic scrub pad to the fermenter. I can't recall for sure. I know the last few times I have only used my hand and paper towels for scrubbing.

    I have never checked the PH on the starsan. I follow the mixing instructions though. That is a good suggestion.
     
  11. Brew_Betty

    Brew_Betty Initiate (0) Jan 5, 2015 Wisconsin

    I can't vouch for the efficacy of your scent free off brand detergent. PBW, Oxiclean free and 7th Generation free and clear laundry powder all work well. Basically, you want a detergent that will dissolve what the beer left behind without the need to wipe or scrub.

    If your tap water contains a lot of bicarbonate, the starsan might not get to the optimal pH. The easy way around this without measuring pH is to use distilled water for starsan or use tap water with Iopdophor.
     
  12. wspscott

    wspscott Pooh-Bah (1,958) May 25, 2006 Kentucky
    Pooh-Bah

    How do you get your beer from the brewpot to the bucket? Do you strain the wort?

    How do you chill the wort?

    Do you mix Starsan fresh for every batch?
     
  13. PapaGoose03

    PapaGoose03 Grand High Pooh-Bah (6,057) May 30, 2005 Michigan
    BA4LYFE Society Pooh-Bah

    I tend to agree with the probable source-finding mentioned above, but it's curious to me that this problem started when you went to all-grain brewing and started using a mash tun. Any liquid that comes out of there will have to go thru your boil and be sanitized, but is there any opportunity for you to be using the same thermometer, stirring spoon, etc. that has touched the mash tun and may get loaded up with bugs from there?
     
  14. PortLargo

    PortLargo Pooh-Bah (1,831) Oct 19, 2012 Florida
    Pooh-Bah

    [​IMG]
    From the facts in evidence, Inspector Clouseau deduces your primary bucket merits the most attention. For routine cleaning I suggest you ditch the soap and use liberal amounts of hot water, PBW, and Starsan, coupled with elbow grease and a soft cloth. I don't even know how to spell microbiology, but pretty sure soap will not kill any bacteria. When my gear became infected I cleaned with Clorox until the bucket begged for mercy . . . then doubled the routine cleaning schedule. This worked, but an easier way would be to just replace the bucket for 15 bucks.

    If using an auto siphon to rack to fermenter, suggest you treat it the same as above (to include replacing).

    Treat the prep'ing of your yeast (starters or rehydrating) like your beer's life depended on it. I'm guessing you aren't reusing your yeast . . . that's a pathway for unwanted little devils to enter your precious wort.

    For a quick turn-around batch shoot for a low OG (1.040'ish) and pitch lots of yeast . . . this should allow for bottling in as little as two weeks. Patersbier is an good way to go here (search for recipe, but it's PDS).

    Please keep the Forum posted . . . it's important the case is sol-ved.
     
    #14 PortLargo, Dec 11, 2015
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2015
  15. counciloak

    counciloak Initiate (0) Aug 28, 2015 Indiana

    Thanks for the tips guys. I don't think the mash tun is the culprit. I'm guessing that was just coincidence. I usually cycle the starsan through the auto siphon and tubes for a minute or more and I just replaced the tubes on the last batch. Maybe I'll give them a bleach batch too
     
  16. premierpro

    premierpro Savant (1,060) Mar 21, 2009 Michigan

    When I get an infection I get rid of all plastic that has been in touch with the beer. I do not use soap to clean my buckets just hot water and a towel. Most beer does not need to be secondary fermented. Any time you transfer openly you risk infection. Good luck.
     
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  17. utahbeerdude

    utahbeerdude Maven (1,374) May 2, 2006 Utah

    A few years ago I had a string of batches that were infected. At that point I got a new bottling bucket and valve, replaced other plastic parts, and Chloroxed the crap out of everything else. I don't really know where the bugs were harbored, but I always suspected the valve on the bottling bucket, which could not be taken apart. There are numerous stories out there of a valves causing infection problems; a very good read about a dirty valve can be found on the Brülosophy blog. Cheers!
     
  18. billandsuz

    billandsuz Pooh-Bah (2,097) Sep 1, 2004 New York
    Pooh-Bah

    Bingo.

    Bleach does have its place in a brewery, and this is one of those times. Plastic is a great environment for bugs. Good thing plastic is also compatible with bleach.

    Soak everything in a bleach solution. A few ounces to 5 gallons and let it soak. And i mean EVERYTHING that is not stainless steel. Every o-ring, valve, spoon, fitting. Everything. Drain through the bucket. Rinse everything well numerous times. Do that with every plastic bucket you use. I take a shower with my equipment.

    Good luck.
     
  19. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    Just out of curiosity are you advocating that bleach is 'better' at sanitizing? Would your post above have been just as 'accurate' if you substituted the term of Star San or Iodophor for bleach above?

    Cheers!
     
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  20. utahbeerdude

    utahbeerdude Maven (1,374) May 2, 2006 Utah

    One beauty of bleach is that, in addition to sanitizing, it is also a very effective at breaking down biomaterials. So if some nook or cranny is harboring some biogunk, it will help to get rid of that material. The downside to bleach is that it is best to rinse after using, unlike Starsan or Iodophor. Cheers!
     
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