Hey folks, I'm shooting for a 3 hour brew session on Sunday, from setup to cleanup. I’ve been ruminating a sho’ nuff no-boil process similar to what's described < here > by @deadwolfbones With a no-boil process in mind I'd be interested in what y'all would conjure up with what I have on hand? I have something in mind but am always open for input from to those with more time in the game. 3# each Briess wheat DME and Sparkling Amber DME, 1# each Briess light DME and dark DME. Chocolate wheat, Chocolate rye, C-20 3# Maris Otter 1# Maltodextrin Quick-cook oats 2 oz each Cryo LupuLN2Hops Cascade, Citra and Eukanot Pellet: Fuggle, Saaz, Willamette, Hüll Melon, Crystal, Tettnang (US), Azacca, El Dorado, Hallertau blanc Leaf: Amarillo One each Safale S04, Safale BE-134, Safbrew T-58, London ESB Maybe a reddish or ruddy and opaque IPA, with hefty mouthfeel? Ferm temp control is acceptable but not optimal, and I won’t be transferring to a secondary vessel. If the weather forecast holds for the next 2 weeks, overnight cold-crash (outside) is doable provided a curious and hungry/thirsty newly awakened spring Ursa doesn’t visit. What say ye?
Ripper, if the marris otter is extract and the maltodextrin then I guess it's worth a shot. I'm always worked about infection and heating water , like in the article, to 160 won't kill all the bad guys. If you are using grains again, I'd be worried about infection. Let us know.
I’d bring it up to a boil at least. Maybe even for 10 mins or so. Enough time to throw some kettle finings in. Won’t set you back to much. A little insurance never hurts.
No boil? I do not recommend making a beer that has not been boiled at least for a little. I see a decent wheat here. My beer would be all the wheat DME and then get the MO in there as well. Bitter with your cryo hops to obtain IBUs of less than 50. Compensate for the short boil time. Tettnang or Hallertau or both at flame out. Keep the hop aroma moderate to just a whiff. Yeast? S04 but really with this moderate sort of brew you could experiment a bit with yeast if interested. Ferment mid 60s if you can but I wouldn't sweat room temp. So long as you do not get too much above 72 or so. Oh yeah. May as well cut your water with a few gallons of distilled. I too always seem to end up with some chocolate malts kicking around. That stuff can't really be used in anything that does not specifically need chocolate malt. It's not a malt that likes to play a supporting role IMO. Cheers.
OK, let's be clear here: there is no grain in this brew. What we have is processed wort in the form of Dried Malt Extract (DME). If we're talking about energy consumption as the A-B link suggested, all of that energy has already been utilized in the production of the DME. As everyone has suggested, I would not use grain without a boil for fear of infection. Grain is covered in bacteria. If you don't mind a sour beer then go ahead, plenty of Berliner-style weiss beers are made without boiling. They used to be quite common in the United States. To create a beer from the given ingredients I'd use whatever DMEs that you'd like, and whatever hops you prefer to create a kind of NE IPA. That's just my opinion. I would not, however, avoid doing a lower alcohol beer as I love table beers; and I also don't mind sour beers if you want to go in that direction. The difference is that I feel I'll find more of the faults of the DME as opposed to a real all grain brew in a smaller and less hoppy beer.
The second bullet lists "Chocolate wheat, Chocolate rye, C-20", that is grain right? Or is your comment/question that no grain should be considered for this batch? Cheers!
Doh! I did not click on < here > in the OP. You are correct: The Grain 6 lbs Briess Bavarian Wheat DME
Thanks for reading the link. I didn't. That's like, work, man. Another option is all DME and reducing the water to 4 gallons. It's been a while but I do love me a quick all DME wheat beer. Even more than dealing with a 60% wheat mash. Cheers.
I think you're right on here. Your hop stash would make a nice hoppy red IPA and you could even use a bit of the dark DME for color and lose an equal amount of the wheat DME.
To be clear, you can definitely brew an all-grain no-boil beer. You just have to mash and then bring the runnings up to mash-out temps (basically above 160F) to pasteurize. 170 or 180F would be safer. Science says pasteurization of liquids is done within just a few seconds, but give it 10-15 minutes to be 100% safe and be rigorous with sanitation elsewhere in the process.
There's more info in this thread at HBT: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/no-boil-recipes-new-for-2019.660329/
(You may also have issues with haze/murkiness in no-boil beers you wouldn't want to be hazy—like a red IPA—though finings may help with that.)
I’ve brewed an all grain raw ale (no boil). I took it up to 180F in an attempt to kill off unwanted bacteria. I fermented it with Voss Kveik. I’ll probably never do it again. It was ok, but every time I drank it I couldn’t help thinking “this is good, but would be way better if I had just boiled it a little”. Yes, it will be very hazy. Also, it’s not going to age well, drink it fresh. Good luck. Why are using 4 different yeasts?
Yeah, stuff in the list are options.....plus some Idaho 7 I forgot to mention. Just trying to decide which ones to use. Having second thoughts about a genuine no-boil brew. Leaning toward a 30-min steep (~ 165f) of 0.5 - 1.0 lb of C-20, 2 qts water per lb. All water is distilled). Dissolve about half the wheat DME in the tea. Add 3.5 gal water and bittering hops (varietal/AA's tbd) while bringing to a boil. Can start heating that while the C-20 is steeping. Boil for 15 min. Remove from heat, add rest of the wheat DME and all the amber DME. Return to boil for another 15 min. (I considered a water-only hop tea but found conflicting info suggesting there are properties in the wort that are essential to effective use of hops, hence adding some DME early in the boil.) Top off to 5.25 gal, remove from heat, chill to 170f, hopstand two oz. each Idaho, El Dorado & Crystal for 30 min. Chill, transfer to bucket, pitch S04. Target fermtemp ~66-67f Dry hop with same as above on day 2. Haven't run this through any recipe calculators yet. Couple questions..... If transfer to secondary was an option I'd dry hop again near terminal gravity with the same. Since secondary isn't an option, is there a quantity of hops to add that can overcome scrubbing of flavor/aroma during the first few days of fermentation? @billandsuz what's the thought behind reducing water to 4 gallons? TIA Edited to add: This is quite a turn from the thread title but get it'll still shorten the brew time. Plus, if it gets done today it'll put me one step closer to my goal of a one-batch-per-month average for 2019.
The other day I happened to see that Scott Janish is a big fan of Idaho 7 as a hot-side addition. He gave some more detail here.
Reducing the volume is just an easy way to increase OG. If you are a bit shy of the ideal amount of DME for example. There is a downside because your hop utilization does decrease. This is overcome with more hops. But it depends on how much you are looking to hit a target. Oh, and all the work for less beer. Looks like a pretty good solution for cleaning out supplies Good luck.
Thank you sirandma'am 45 minute 6-gallon boil 0.75 lbs C-20 steeped 3.0 lbs Wheat DME (half at start, rest of it and all other DME in last 15 minutes) 3.0 lbs Amber DME 0.5 lbs Dark DME .05 oz each Chinook & Hallertau 45 min 1 oz each Idaho 7 & Pacific Jade, 30 min hopstand @ 170° 5.1 gallons in fermentor. OG 1.054 Safale S04 Will dryhop 3 oz Idaho 7 on day two