So I bought a used kegerator a couple months back, the idea was to use it to control temp on my first lager, transfer to a corny keg, let sit for a few weeks and learn how to actually use a kegerator. The lager has been in the keg resting <40 degrees for about a month and it's finally time to get the ball rolling. Have been doing a lot of research on sanitation, how to convert the sankey setup to ball lock, etc. The part I am most concerned about is force carbing. Each guide I can find is a little different and it seems like a pretty imperfect science. Does anyone have any recommendations?
I'm confused by this statement. There's about a million carbonation charts out there, and they are all based on the same well known science. Here's one of them... http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php You just decide how many volumes of CO2 you want (usually depending on the style). If you don't know, you could just pick 2.5. Next, determine (if you don't already know) the temperature of your beer. Find the chart's row for that temperature, and follow it across until you find the volumes of CO2 you had decided on. Then look at the PSI value at the top of that column. That's the pressure you need to set in order to carbonate your beer.
Thanks, this is actually the first time I've seen this chart... I should probably just stay away from youtube videos on how to force carb a keg fast... so with the slow carb method, how do I figure out how long it's going to take?
I give it a couple weeks before serving. Some say a week (or even less), because they test it, and sure enough, there's some carbonation. But it's not finished that fast.
be sure to keep the beer cold, always, when carbing. cold liquid absorbs more gas than warm liquid at the same applied pressure. that, and the extra lagering time helps just about all beers. sometimes a freshly carbed keg will be drinkable, but you will find that the beer noticeably improves after a week or two. force carbing is really simple. once you get one keg done you will wonder why you waited so long to keg. Cheers.
My suggestion: "highlight, right-click, delete" About 99% of the time your beer will be improving as it slow carbs . . . slow carbing (week+) just about guarantees success . . . you make the connection. You didn't ask, but lots of threads on carbing, temps, leaks, foam, etc, in the Home Bar Forum.
While I won't disagree that more time = better beer (indeed, I wholeheartedly agree that it does), temperature is irrelevant. As long as you use the charts and set the pressure correctly, the beer will carb just as quickly and effectively at 70F as it will at 35F.,
Not that I am an expert, (because I am not) but if time is no issue, follow vikeman's advice by using the chart, finding the temp you want to serve at, the volume of co2 you want, and set your psi. If you don't know what volume, or temp Google it, or ask if you can't find the answer. You could speed up the above process slightly by overpresurizing to 30 psi for a day or so. Then vent the pressure, and set it where you want it as per chart. Or, if time is of the essence, you could quickly force carb it. Beer geek nation (youtube) has 2 videos on this that were good enough examples for me. It is true what was said above about cold(er) liquids can absorb more gas. But I suggest you set the temp only to your desired serving temp.
And I wouldn't bother attaching the gas fitting to the liquid side. I know some people do that. If you are quickly force carbing it, it won't be necessary.
Thanks for the advice, everyone. I set it to 12 PSI - just tested today (5 days later) and the carbonation is great.
