IPA and DIPA homebrew not hoppy

You're not pitching enough yeast, use the whole pack of US05. You're not adding enough hops. For big IPA flavor in a 6 gallon batch, I use 8-12 oz on the hot side (most at flameout) and 4 oz of dry hops.

 

Need to use all the yeast and more hops! Also try dry hopping too.

 

I personally have not brewed 1 gallon batches.
Let’s concentrate on the 1 gallon Dead Ringer kit for now:
“Your Dead Ringer IPA Kit Includes:

1. Steeping grains and mesh bag Steep approx. 10 minutes—Brew Day, step 2
2. 1.5 lbs. Northern Brewer Gold malt extract syrup Boil for 45 minutes—Brew Day, step 4
3. 3.5 grams Centennial hops Boil for 45 minutes—Brew Day, step 4
4. 3.5 grams Centennial hops Boil for 20 minutes—Brew Day, step 4
5. 7 grams Centennial hops Boil for 5 minutes—Brew Day, step 4
6. 7 grams Centennial hops Boil for 0 minutes—Brew Day, step 4
7. Safale US-05 brewer's yeast Add HALF packet to cooled wort—Brew Day, step 9
   Firstly, ½ packet of US-05 is indeed plenty for a 1 gallon batch. For this particular beer I think that using ½ packet is OK. Using this amount of yeast should not be a big impact from a flavor point of view.
   Let me ‘translate’ the above hopping schedule for a 5 gallon batch (x5) for my benefit:

• 17.5 grams (0.6 ounces) for 45 minutes
• 17.5 grams (0.6 ounces) for 20 minutes
• 35 grams (1.2 ounces ) for 5 minutes
• 35 grams (1.2 ounces) for 0 minutes
  So, a total of 3.6 ounces for an equivalent 5 gallon batch is not a lot of hops but the late hopping is a fair amount: adding 1+ ounces for flavor (last 5 minutes) and 1+ ounces for aroma (0 minutes) is not unsubstantial.
  Why you are not perceiving hop flavor in your Dead Ringer is mystifying to me. What you can do in the future is add dry hopping to your routine; that will provide more hop aroma (maybe 7 grams for dry hopping; 7-10 days of contact time).
• Hopefully some others can figure out why you are experiencing “almost zero hop flavors”.
  Cheers!

 

He is brewing one gallon batches

 

I think half a packet is more than enough for single gallon batch.

What are you using for water? Water has always been a signifcant factor in my hoppier beers.

 

There is no doubt that Dead Ringer should have substantial hop flavor/aroma. The two late additions of 7 grams (each) for 5 & 0 minutes should have provided that substantial hop flavor/aroma. Why you didn’t achieve it is dumbfounding to me.

Hopefully some other BA will solve this mystery?

Cheers!

 

As long as your tap water tastes OK, it should be alright to extract brew with your water.

If you have the ability to carbon filter your tap water that could eliminate the chlorine (or some of the chloramine if that is what your water suppliers uses instead of chlorine); you might find that will be 'better' overall?

As regards the aspect of "zero hop flavors", tap water should not affect that aspect.

Cheers!

 

Are you using a campden tablet in your water to remove the chlorine?

Also, what are you doing to bottle/transfer the beer??

Maybe oxidizing the beer a bit, which can cause it to lose some hop flavor.

That, or a lupulin threshold shift if you drink alot of other hoppy beers anyways.

 

While (from the looks of the recipe) the beer ought to have a nice hop component, I think dry hopping would really help out. I brew one gallon batches to try out single hops without any other variables and I generally use 1-2 oz of hops per one gallon batch (It's roughly an APA I brew, so 2 lbs 2-row and 1/3 pack US-05, OG 1.052~). I generally will bitter with Magnum (1-2g at 60) and then use 1/3 of the oz at 15, 1/3 at flameout, 1/3 as a dry hop four days before bottling. The dry hops will help out the the aroma and the generally perception of hops. If you really want some hoppy aroma, pick up an extra 1 oz pack of an interesting American or NZ hop, use the same kit but add half the extra pack at flameout and half as a dry hop. That ought to do it!

 

You can't oxidize your wort prior to fermentation, at least not at pitching temps.

 

The Two Hearted clone from Zymurgy, John Mallet and was the author, Dave Curtis and Ryan Kramer for the homebrew recipe ( all Bells employees) they used-
1.2 oz. at 45 min.
1.2 oz. at 30 min.
3.5 oz dry hop.

All centennial at 9.1% AA. The OP should consider about .7 oz. of centennial for dry hops to boost aroma.

 

You can dry hop with either pellets or whole hops. My personal preference is pellets.

As I posted previously: “What you can do in the future is add dry hopping to your routine; that will provide more hop aroma (maybe 7 grams for dry hopping; 7-10 days of contact time).”

Cheers!

 

Also on the side of pellets for this application. Whole hops are great, but they eat up a lot of the beer and when you only have a gallon to start with, that can be significant even with only 7-10g of dry hops. Plus, they are easier to toss into the jug/carboy without having to secondary to something which makes getting them out again easier.

 

Running this recipe (as related by Jack above) through Brewersfriend, I get about 40 IBUs, which ain't much for an IPA. You'd have to use double that amount of Centennial as a bittering addition in order to get into the 60-some IBU range that's more typical of IPAs. So given the low amount of bitterness and the fact that you didn't dry hop, it's not too surprising that you're underwhelmed.

Now, that's assuming these calculations are correct. If this is a kit you bought from a reputable dealer, it seems unlikely they would botch the hopping levels, so perhaps the online calculator I used doesn't work correctly for one gallon batches.