IPA Fermentation Temps

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by Drel, Oct 19, 2016.

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  1. Drel

    Drel Zealot (690) Nov 14, 2014 Massachusetts
    Trader

    Hi all. This may have been answered previously and if so, I apologize.

    I just recently started homebrewing and I live in an apartment with not a lot of space. I have been basically utilizing the BIAB method and then fermenting in a glass carboy in the kitchen closet. The temperature reading on the carboy stays at a pretty consistent 72-73 degrees. I have brewed 2 IPAs, both with different yeasts (Wyeast 1056 / Wyeast 1318) that have 74 degrees at the high end of fermentation temp. I also noticed that my carboy stops vigorously bubbling around 36 hours but I left them in the carboy for about 2 weeks before checking FG stability. I am just wondering if I am wasting my time fermenting at this temperature. All of the articles and IPA recipes I read have fermentation temps in the mid 60s. I know Brulosophy did an experiment regarding fermentation warm vs cold and found not much difference in taste even though they themselves stress the importance of temperature regulation. I took a sample off of my first IPA before bottling and it was quite bitter w/ throat burn. I am wondering if there are any similar experiences out there or if I am doomed to beer with fusel alcohol flavor unless I am able to get my temps down......Or maybe I am making a newb mistake and trying my beer when it is still far too green.

    Note: yeast was pitched at this temperature after the wort was cooled so I am not as concerned about that.

    Thanks in advance
     
  2. NeroFiddled

    NeroFiddled Grand High Pooh-Bah (7,276) Jul 8, 2002 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    I would say that most people cannot taste the difference between a beer brewed in the mid 60's versus 72-74˚F. It's only when you get to the 70's that things start to come out. Or the beer is so flawed that it doesn't matter.

    On that note, I'm assuming "BIAB" means "brew in a bag" which is extract, and that could be clouding the taste - essentially, it's flawed before you even begin (and let's not let the argument start, but it's an oxidized product before you even touch it). And I don't mean to be insulting with that, but there is a clear "homebrew" flavor that you get from extract. That's because it's either blown in the air to dry into Dried Malt extract, or cooked down to become syrupy extract.

    Two weeks following primary fermentation seems quite enough for an ale.

    What I'd do if I were you is to find a clean 5-gallon plastic bucket to ferment in, and a bin that it can sit it. If you're willing to fill the bin with ice/cool water to start out with, and then once it's active wrap a towel around it that's got an end in the water, that will help to cool it as the evaporating water will pull off heat. The important point is not too cool it too much at the start, you want to get the yeast going.
     
    #2 NeroFiddled, Oct 19, 2016
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2016
  3. kcq101

    kcq101 Initiate (0) Nov 10, 2007 Pennsylvania

    Hello drel! Welcome to the obsession and community.

    While I typically shoot for ~67-68 F (ambient) with both of these yeasts when brewing an IPA, I have had relative success at the higher ends of the temperature spectrum. Fermentation activity can raise internal temps by 5-7 F. So the higher temps may not be ideal. But based on my experience, the "bitter w/ throat burn" doesn't seem to fully align with high fermentation temps.

    Rather, I have experienced a sharp bitterness that also hits the back of your throat with young hoppy beers, especially ones that have been dry hopped. I've attributed the vegetal hop matter still in suspension as the root cause of this sensation. With time and eventual cold conditioning, the hop matter and, in turn, this off flavor could subside. But this is just a guess.

    Can you give us more info. on your recipe and process? This would allow us to better diagnose the apparent issue (or at least try).
     
  4. Drel

    Drel Zealot (690) Nov 14, 2014 Massachusetts
    Trader

    Again, I am brand new at this so I may be mistaken but isn't brew in a bag all grain vs extract? Or is it both? For my first batch I used 4lb 2 row, 0.5lb carapils, and 0.5lb flaked oats. I steeped the grains in a large bag at around 160F for 45 min and then started my boil. I added 1 oz cascade at 60min, 1 oz cascade at 15 min, and then 2 oz of citra standing/whirpool. I added an ounce of cascade as a dry hop when fermentation seemed completely settled at about 7 days. It was bottled at 14 days (when taster was taken). The final volume was about 1.5 gal. I completely forgot about taking an original gravity after boil so by the time I got a FG it was meaningless in terms of figuring out ABV. FG was 1.019 x 2 readings 2 days apart.

    Maybe I over hopped my first batch? My second is about 7 days in the fermentation process so I haven't tried it yet. I might refrain from the dry hop on this one.
     
  5. makisupapolice14

    makisupapolice14 Pundit (799) Jun 5, 2005 New York

    Biab
    Biab is in no way an extract
    Brewing process. Do some
    Reading...
     
    billandsuz and Budah like this.
  6. NeroFiddled

    NeroFiddled Grand High Pooh-Bah (7,276) Jul 8, 2002 Pennsylvania
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    If I google BIAB I get "brew in a bag". Sorry. I don't care if I'm wrong, but what is it? Oh... is it just grains in a mesh bag?

    You did remove the grain bag before boiling, right Drel?

    Beyond that, 1 oz. of Cascade for 60 minutes in 1.5 gallons does seem high.

    I can't even imagine spending the time to make less than 5 gallons, let alone the wasted cost... you might want to look into a better method where you can recirculate and sparge your grains.
     
    #6 NeroFiddled, Oct 19, 2016
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2016
  7. Budah

    Budah Initiate (0) Feb 19, 2015 Missouri
    Trader

    Not sure if Nero is drunk but I'd ignore that whole post.

    You have way too much hops, did you calculate IBUs?
     
    makisupapolice14 likes this.
  8. Drel

    Drel Zealot (690) Nov 14, 2014 Massachusetts
    Trader

    Yes I removed the bag pre-boil. It was 1.5 gallons after significant loss due to hopping....also my first all grain batch so it was more of a test than anything.

    Calculated IBUs via a homebrew calculator and it was theoretically 87
     
  9. Brewday

    Brewday Zealot (721) Dec 25, 2015 New York

    Since you don't have a keezer, I would wait for this crazy heat spell to pass so you could use your thermostat to keep fermenting temps steady. Try yeast temps in the mid range and go from there and use 1/2-3/4 oz of hops per gal to start.
     
    #9 Brewday, Oct 20, 2016
    Last edited: Oct 20, 2016
  10. hoptualBrew

    hoptualBrew Initiate (0) May 29, 2011 Florida

    Use US-05 or American ale yeastand pitch a good amount of yeast and your fine
     
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