IPA/NEIPA off flavors

I think it's closer to 10 or 12 gallons. But yeah. Completely safe and cheap insurance.

 

Plus the added O2 consuming benefits of a little potassium metabisulphite.... you’re half way to LowDo Bro!

 

Cuz it matters!

 

This is from the morebeer site.Medicinal-tasting phenols are usually brought out during mashing and/or sparging and are caused by incorrect pH levels, water amounts and temperatures.The milwaukee mw102 works great.

 

I know someone who is blind to chlorophenols, but has an excellent beer palate. We all have a blind spot somewhere in our flavor perceptions.

Drinking water is dosed at a few ppm chlorine. Humans are sensitive to chlorophenols at the ppb level.

One of my beers got dinged for chlorophenols. The thing that I rembered doing was flushing a clogged pump with tap water, and then not draining it. The water in the pump and hoses was probably around a pint or a little more.

 

That's my point, it only takes 1ppb of chlorophenols to be noticeable enough for a BJCP flavor panel. Those dosing rates are high to make it an obvious flaw. So if 1ppb is an obvious dosing rate, what rate is a threshold? I could see where 1ppb of chloramines could make it through the distillation process, and after fermenting with an expressive yeast, making enough chlorophenols to be perceptible.

 

Exactly. It doesn’t take much in the water to make perceptible chlorophenols for most people.

 

@Curmudgeon posted in the original post:

“In between these batches, I brewed some Hefes, a Kolsch, a couple Saisons, and a cider and they all came out fine so I am assuming my procedures, cleaning, water, etc. are decent.”

In a later post he provided the detail of:

“I get the Stop&Shop Acadia Pure Distilled Water.”

Curmudgeon, could you please confirm that you used the same Stop & Shop distilled water to brew your beers? The problematic ‘NEIPA’ batches and the batches of Hefes, Kolsch, a couple Saisons,…?

Cheers!

 

Perhaps yeast strain plays a part as well?

 

Well, if you did not perceive chlorophenol flavors in your non-NEIPA beers it seems evident to me that your distilled water is not the issue otherwise you would be tasting medicinal type flavors in those non-NEIPA beers.

Permit me to go further on the topic of distilled water. The purpose of a water vendor in producing distilled water it to produce a product that is pure water (i.e., water devoid of minerals and chemicals). I am personally not convinced that chloramine 'survives' the distillation process but for the sake of discussion let's say that it could possibly be an issue. There is a real easy solution to this potential 'issue': the company producing the distilled water should start off with water that does not contain chloramine to begin with. The companies that produce distilled water should have chemists as employees that know the chemistry/process here and they should take all steps to produce a product called distilled water that is devoid of extra 'stuff'.

You mentioned making some changes and doing some 'experimentation'. If you want to utilize campden I suppose there are no downsides to doing this but I personally am adverse to adding extra 'stuff' in my brewing process so I personally would not do that. Brewing with a product called distilled water should be a sufficient step enough.

I would encourage you to try changes to the whirlpool process whereby you do not go too low in temperature with the hop-stand. I would also suggest that you only make this one change and see how the resulting beer tastes. if you make a number of changes at the same time and the beer tastes good (e.g., no medicinal type flavors) you have no way of knowing which change 'worked'.

Cheers!

 

PH changes with temp so if you buy that meter leave the probes in the wort for 10-15 mins or until the readings stop moving and make sure the wort temp is close to 65-70.Also get ma9015 storage solution and calibration solution 4 & 7.

 

It normally shouldn't take 15 minutes for a pH reading. If the temperature is changing that much (i.e. wasn't near the calibrated temp), I'd force the temp to the calibrated temp and then take the reading.

Proper storage and calibration is key. I'd add the cleaning solution (MA9016 IIRC) to that list.

 

I'm kinda with @JackHorzempa on water not being the issue. If you're getting chlorophenols with the yeast strains you're using for NEIPA (which don't really produce phenols) and not with hefeweizen and saison strains (which produce phenols), water seems to be a red herring

 

Agreed 100%!

Cheers to you!!

 

Please report back.

Cheers!

 

Hop additions at FO or whirlpool might be one of the procedures I question the most in the production of very Hop forward beers. I understand why the whirlpool exists on a pro scale and why as homebrewers we have adopted these Long hop stands and whirlpools to mimic what’s happening on a pro level but is this a place where we might have an advantage? I know I’ve heard Kimmich talk about it being beneficial to as quickly as possible cool down the wort after the hops “drop” to lock in the oil content.

How long does it take to extract the flavor impact from the oils if you’re not concerned about Alpha? Would a short “dip” in wort cooled down to say 170. Max oil, minimal vegetal...?

Then you have people like JC who clearly doesn’t think think the flavor/aroma impact of the sexy hops in whirlpool is even worth it. All the street beers don’t get their signature hop until the dry hop. Just Columbus all the way through the hot side. He said they tested it and decided the impact wasn’t worth it?

 

Increasing the hop residence times (i.e., long whirlpool/hop-stand times) was studied by Rock Bottom breweries in 2010 and the results were documented in a MBAA article (see link below). An extract from the Conclusions section:

“Longer postboil residence of kettle hop additions led to more hop flavor and aroma.”

Cheers!

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...orceDialog=1&usg=AOvVaw3vnA07323-Yu1N9OAQBiN8