IPA recipe opinions.

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by JrGtr, Jan 11, 2014.

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  1. JrGtr

    JrGtr Pooh-Bah (1,775) Apr 13, 2006 Massachusetts
    Pooh-Bah

    So here I am with a pile of ingredients, and I'm trying to determine what to do for a hop schedule.
    I have a grist of 13lbs Munich malt, with 1lb of Crystal 40. I've used that grist before and like what it brings to the table.
    I have a pack of 1056 in starter.
    I have a total of 3oz homegrown Newport hops for bittering (won't use the whole thing, probably about an ounce and a half.)
    I have 2 oz each of Cascade, Falconers Flight, Citra, and Mosaic.
    I'm thinking save the Cascade for dryhop, about 7 days before bottling.
    Any ideas what I should do with the rest? Thinking of basically hop-bursting, most of them with 10 minutes or less in the boil, plus a hop stand before chilling.
    Can anyone give a recommendation when I should put in the others, and how much of each.
    One consideration is to mix them all up, and split into 3 additions.
    Thoughts?
     
    #1 JrGtr, Jan 11, 2014
  2. basscram

    basscram Initiate (0) Mar 29, 2006 Maine

    dry hop with cascade like you suggested. I think you have a good idea how you want this to turn out. I think your idea of of mixing them all up, and hopbursting would be awesome! Mix the Falconers flight, citra, and mosaic and hopburst em. Heck, even do a hopstand with that mix too!! why the heck not?! My mouth is watering just thinking about how that would turn out!
     
    #2 basscram, Jan 11, 2014
  3. psnydez86

    psnydez86 Initiate (0) Jan 4, 2012 Pennsylvania

    The problem with bittering with homegrown hops is you have no idea of there alpha levels meaning no idea of what your IBU's are gonna be. That's okay if your of the thinking that IPA's can't be too bitter. I like shooting for the low end of the IBU range on my ipa's, but that's just me.

    I say ditch the homegrown, go get some nugget/warrior/magnum from the LHBS and bitter with those. Then I'd do .5 oz of cascade, falconers, Citra, mosaic at 10 minutes, 5minutes, and flameout. Then the last .5oz of each variety can be used in the dry hop.

    If your cool with your grist good, but it would seem to me this beer is gonna be a hoppy red/amber and not an IPA. Unless your Munich malt is like 2L which I don't think exists.
     
    #3 psnydez86, Jan 11, 2014
  4. AlCaponeJunior

    AlCaponeJunior Grand Pooh-Bah (3,452) May 21, 2010 Texas
    Society Pooh-Bah

    I'm a huge fan of munich malt and think your beer will be awesome. I would also do something like this with the hops. Heck you could put all six ounces of hops in at flameout, quickly cool to 170F, hopstand for 20 minutes. I did this with a PtE clone and it came out great.

    I also agree use the cascade for dry hopping.
     
    #4 AlCaponeJunior, Jan 11, 2014
  5. GreenKrusty101

    GreenKrusty101 Initiate (0) Dec 4, 2008 Nevada

    "The problem with bittering with homegrown hops is you have no idea of there alpha levels meaning no idea of what your IBU's are gonna be."

    In my experience, using homegrown hops for bittering is not that problematic as long as you harvest/dry them well. Use a conservative average AA for the variety (maybe 15 or 16% for Newports)...homegrown hops are rarely more bitter than commercially grown ones. I have been brewing with homegrown hops for ~ 5 years.

    In fact, I would rather use them for bittering than late hop additions or dryhopping. (would rather spend my money on proprietary ones for those purposes)

    Cheers
     
    #5 GreenKrusty101, Jan 11, 2014
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