IPA without adjusting Ph

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by CADETS3, Jan 29, 2016.

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  1. CADETS3

    CADETS3 Initiate (0) Dec 3, 2014 Texas

    I am wanting to brew my first IPAs in the coming weeks and I wanted to get something cleared up... I yet have gotten around to making Ph changes in my water and I've read that IPAs must be adjusted more than other beers. What am I sacrificing or losing with just using Ozarka water?
     
  2. hopfenunmaltz

    hopfenunmaltz Pooh-Bah (2,635) Jun 8, 2005 Michigan
    Pooh-Bah

    I have never heard they need to be adjusted more than say a Helles or Pilsner. Where did you get that? Oh, for what base water?
     
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  3. jbakajust1

    jbakajust1 Pooh-Bah (2,552) Aug 25, 2009 Oregon
    Pooh-Bah

    I would want to know what base water looks like. I've made great IPAs with 1 Tbsp of Gypsum in the boil, but that is on basically RO water.
     
  4. CADETS3

    CADETS3 Initiate (0) Dec 3, 2014 Texas

  5. chavinparty

    chavinparty Zealot (653) Jan 4, 2015 New Hampshire

    Theres brewing water calculators out there but without balancing ions I would say you could throw some gypsum in there. I have similar well water and I have used a few teaspoons of gypsum. Haven't noticed a big difference personally. It's worth a side by side experiment for sure
     
  6. invertalon

    invertalon Pooh-Bah (2,249) Jan 27, 2009 Ohio
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    I always have to add quite a bit of acid to my IPA's or light beers to get the pH in the right range. Since I have been doing so, the overall quality of my IPA's has improved quite a bit... Flavors pop a bit more, for one. I believe by sulfate/chloride ratio is around 4:1 on top of it to enhance the bitterness perception.
     
  7. mbbransc

    mbbransc Initiate (0) Mar 24, 2009 North Carolina

    That's a convoluted water report. Do you know which water profile you are using?

    My water pH starts ~7.5. For my 10-gal batch of IPAs, I include 8oz acidulated malt to get my pH down to 5.3-5.4. Without a pH meter, you're really shooting in the dark.

    "What are you sacrificing?" Probably just some crispness and maybe a little efficiency.
     
  8. OldSock

    OldSock Maven (1,418) Apr 3, 2005 District of Columbia

    Water pH is essentially irrelevant to determining mash pH. It is the water minerals that determine how much acid is required.
     
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  9. NickTheGreat

    NickTheGreat Maven (1,470) Oct 28, 2010 Iowa
    Trader

    I'm of the "don't worry about it" opinion myself. Now where I live we have great water, but I feel like water chemistry is towards the end of the list of homebrewing things to perfect.
     
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  10. CADETS3

    CADETS3 Initiate (0) Dec 3, 2014 Texas

    This is more to what I was referring to; adding acid. Sorry for the lack of better words. What are the main minerals I need to pay attention to? Page 4 has this list broken down to Calcium, Sodium, Potassium, Fluoride Magnesium, Chloride etc...
     
  11. CADETS3

    CADETS3 Initiate (0) Dec 3, 2014 Texas

    I never have worried about it until now, I'd like to start brewing with tap water and adjust my water accordingly so I don't have to go to the store all the time for some gallons of water.
     
  12. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    Calcium, Magnesium, Sodium, Chloride, Sulfate and Bicarbonate.

    Cheers!
     
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  13. JackHorzempa

    JackHorzempa Grand Pooh-Bah (3,375) Dec 15, 2005 Pennsylvania
    Society Pooh-Bah

    I brew with my tap water. When I brew pale colored beer I need to add some lactic acid to acidify the water to achieve a proper mash pH.

    Cheers!
     
  14. GreenKrusty101

    GreenKrusty101 Initiate (0) Dec 4, 2008 Nevada

    IPAs, unless you are not using any caramel, shouldn't need "extra" ph adjustment....it's mostly a flavor proposition with a lot of the hardening minerals going in the boil, IMHO.
     
  15. utahbeerdude

    utahbeerdude Maven (1,374) May 2, 2006 Utah

    Hitting an appropriate mash pH will definitely help you make better beer, no matter what style you are brewing. To elaborate on @GreenKrusty101's comment, the Ozark water is fairly soft, and so for a typical IPA with some crystal malt and some added Ca salts you may hit a decent pH without any other adjustment (added acid). But details do matter, and answers to the following questions would be helpful.

    (1) What is your grain bill? (2) Are you using Ozark Natural Spring Water or Ozark Drinking Water? (3) Do you have (or can you easily obtain) any CaSO4 and/or CaCl2?
     
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  16. OldSock

    OldSock Maven (1,418) Apr 3, 2005 District of Columbia

    In the experiments Brulosophy.com has been doing surprisingly the water adjustments come out significant far more often than the rest, including things like lager fermentation temperature.
     
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  17. NickTheGreat

    NickTheGreat Maven (1,470) Oct 28, 2010 Iowa
    Trader

    That's fair. I kinda meant I'd worry about sanitation, ferm temps, pitch rates, first.

    But the OP may be an experienced brewer and have that stuff taken care of
     
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  18. CADETS3

    CADETS3 Initiate (0) Dec 3, 2014 Texas

    (1)
    8.5# pilsner
    3# vienna malt
    2# cane beet sugar
    12 oz aromatic

    (2) Ozarka Natural Spring Water

    (3) No I don't. My LHBS doesn't carry items like that yet. They are only 7-8 months into business.
     
  19. GreenKrusty101

    GreenKrusty101 Initiate (0) Dec 4, 2008 Nevada

    IPA grainbill? :confused: ...at a minimum, way too much sugar, imho
     
  20. CADETS3

    CADETS3 Initiate (0) Dec 3, 2014 Texas

    Belgian IPA
     
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