Just ordered NB's Pliny clone: please comment

Yes, sorry, rehydrate the yeast. I do have a stir plate, but I've just tried it once with the whole "brew a mini beer" and then add the yeast that I then pour into the fermentation (carboy).

Are you saying that I can get more yeast out of one packet of dry yeast merely by making it into a "paste?"

Thanks for your help here

 

I just brewed a stout with an OG of 1.105 and ended with an FG of 1.02, below predicted FG, on 1 pack of 05...now I did leave it in primary for 4 weeks before putting on cacao nibs in a secondary for 10 days, so that extended primary may have something to do with a lower FG. My point...I think 1 pack of 05 should he fine for that Pliny clone. I'm brewing up that same Plinian Legacy kit next as well. I have been using Irish Moss for all of my IPA's and non porter and stouts lately and have had some of the clearest beers I've ever made. Add a teaspoon 15 min before end of boil and it strains out going into primary. I also cold crash for at least 24 hours before kegging and have found that to help immensely as well. I also like to put all of my homebrews on tap and carbonated before I keg. I've given up yeasty crude at the bottom of a bottle conditioned beer for the clearer color of a keg bottled beer. I'll drink the keg until the next brew is ready or until I've got around 2 gallons left and then I'll bottle off of the same tap into 22oz bombers. Its worked pretty good for a while now and then I can have a selection of bottles and something different on tap. Good luck with your brew!

 

That is what is recommended by Fermentis, they also advocate the dry sprinkling, although there is a mixed consensus on that practice. For a beer 1.050-ish I'll sprinkle dry directly into the wort, much over and I'll rehydrate. I do like the US-05.

 

My recipe uses dry malt extract like yours, so the brewing/dry-hopping procedures would be close to the same if you want to modify your recipe a bit since my beer proves that the conditioning step can be skipped.

I fermented in a carboy for 10 days, then added the first dry hop in the primary. That sat for 9 days at which time I added the second dry hop which went for 5 days. Then I bottled, and I had sufficient carbonation after 10 days so that I started drinking them then. (Ambient basement temp for the process was 65 degrees, except for the first two days after bottling I kept it around 70-72 degrees.)

I think your recipe called for 2 weeks of fermenting, then 2 weeks of conditioning before you start the dry hopping process. It's the conditioning step that is the big difference in procedures between your recipe and mine, although your recipe also says to transfer to a secondary fermentor for the conditioning and dry hopping (which I don't think is necessary, although, if you are going to keep the 2 weeks of conditioning in your procedure, then it might be good to get the beer off of all that trub in the primary).

My recipe is the one that circulated in these threads about 6 months ago, and it did not call for this conditioning step. I think the recipe is the one that was taken from 'Zymurgy' magazine, and it was said to be created by Vinny Cilurzo who created the real Pliny recipe at Russian River.

 

If you have the book Brewing Classic Styles by Jamil Zainasheff and John Palmer go to page 285: “For dry yeasts, just do a proper rehydration in tap water; do not make a starter.”

I have read where dry yeast manufacturers mention that you not make a starter from dry yeast since you will be ‘using up’ the glycogen reserves that the yeast manufacturers provide as part of the dry yeast production process. Using up these glycogen reserves is counterproductive.

Cheers!

 

Sorry brew-bro. Can't help you with kegging.

 

I brewed the all grain version of this in May and the end result was stellar! it was probably the best beer I have ever brewed. That said it was also challenging working with the 12oz of hops they send you. There will be a lot of trub loss and hop sludge every step of the way! Good luck if it all goes as planned you will end up with a great batch of beer!

 

HerbMeowing said: ↑
Starters are only appropriate for liquid yeasts.

It's conventional wisdom starters should not be made from dry yeast.

Can't recall the whys and wherefores...only that it's the convention.

 

Rehydrating dry yeast doesnt make more yeast. But it greatly improves the ultimate viability of the cells you start with. Pitching dry yeast without rehydrating first results in the loss of about 50% of the cells.

ETA: I wouldn't call the consistency of rehydrated yeast paste-like. It's thinner than that.

 

I built my own with a SS Insinkerator flange, 3 6" carrige bolts, 5 gal paint strainer and a large hose clamp. Cut down the strainer bag so it doesn't touch bottom and andded a large SS nut in the bag to keep it down in the wort.
Probably had a 16" softball of hop sludge in there when I removed it.
I can remove it and add my immersion chiller and drop it back in but I need a helping hand to do it

Think the whole thing cost $20 to build, well worth it as there's a boat load of hops in that recipe

 

I wolud post a pic but I've never been able to figure out how, lol. I got the idea from the ones made out of large PVC but most of them looked a little deformed from heat so that can't be good
Just dry hopped the Pty clone last night and will bottle next weekend, I'm getting thirsty