Keg Trub

I like floating diptubes.

http://www.clearbeerdraughtsystem.com/

 

It’s simple.
The less trub you put into your fermenter the less you’ll get in the keg.
I use whirlfloc and my boil kettle has a dam. That removes 95+%.
Yeah you lose some volume but just calculate for it.
After fermentation I cold crash the fermenter. That makes the rest settle down before you transfer.
I get maybe a tbs of trub in the bottom of my keg and none is ever tapped.
It is completely doable and very easy if you take your time.

 

In addition to other already mentioned processes, use a more flocculent house yeast, treat your kegs like nitroglycerin, and don't go crazy with the hops

Keg trub is not that bad if it stays in the keg.

 

Proteins, hop particles etc...
Almost all of that can be knocked out with whirlfloc and a dam.
The yeast settles down well for me in a conical fermenter.
My draw tube is above all the sediment and I only transfer cold.
Occasionally use gelatin. Dry hop in a sock.

I don’t know of a way other than time, temperature and gravity to clear it.
That’s why I go out of my way to keep as much as I can out of the fermenter in the first place.

 

The pick up tube floats at the top of the liquid, instead of being fixed to the bottom, where yeast and other particulates may have settled. I never used one, so cant testify to their helpfulness..

 

I tend to agree with @Arturo2 and try to keep as much yeast/trub out of the fermenter as possible by transferring cold, etc. The main reason that I started using the floating diptube was so that I could dry hop in the keg with loose hop pellets and not worry about clogging.
With non-hoppy beers, IMO this does help with clarity when the yeast in suspension drop out, as the beer is drawn from the top. The difference in residual beer left at the bottom is negligible compared with a standard diptube. The main disadvantages are cost and a few extra parts to clean.

 

I do not think I get too much trub in my kegs. Dry hop, yeast and haze most definitely but very little from the boil or fermentation makes it to the keg.

I do cold crash and use gelatin. Sometimes it works a little too well, depending on the style.

The gelatin will form a gel at the bottom of the keg and even a modest amount of disturbance keeps everything locked up pretty well.

Also, as said eloquently by @GreenKrusty101 treat your kegs like they are nitroglycerin.

Edit

 

Well, if it's important enough to you, you could filter the beer on its way into the keg.

 

I’m really surprised you’re getting enough trub to be concerned based upon your techniques.
Try gelatin if you haven’t already. Like @billandsuz says, it creates sort of a gel seal over the top of the sediment and really sticks to it.

 

I think you already know your solution. Don’t move the keg. If it’s because you need the space and you feel that strongly about eliminating it in your pours, buy another freezer/keezer/chamber.

 

Another option is using Kerry Biofine Clear prior to racking. It can take some time, and it's weird in that it works a little differently with each beer, but given time it'll drop everything out.

 

Yes, problematic. I pull all of the yeast I need for another brew after crashing for a few days and only then use the Biofine. You might be able to re-pitch that but I wouldn't try it.

I'll also point out that trub is generally thought of differently than just residual yeast so maybe that's why some responded about kettle finings. I pull off trub, just a little bit, as soon as fermentation slows. It'll be darker and more chunky. From that point on it's all yeast.

Also, one more note, more for professionals who are dealing with utility costs, but beer is at its densest at 40F so dropping to 32F is really a bit of overkill. The yeast will drop just as well at 40 as it will at 32. If you were talking about a 100 bbl fermenter that's a bit of cash you could save.