So I finally saved up for an entry level kegging system. Before I drop the money I wanted to ask a few questions so I don't have to buy additional equipment sooner rather than later, particular since the invest ment is on the high side. - ball lock vs pin lock (I've heard pin is easier and less likely to put the wrong connections on and ball lock because more parts and assesproes are available). I guess my question is pin locks seem to be much cheaper and if it's my first keg which should I start out with. I have a dedicated fridge so the size doesn't matter, short or wide. - rebuilt/refurbished/used keg on craigslist. The first keg with be a part of the package so it would be refurbish or new and if I add kegs down the road it may be used. Has anybody had bad or good luck with used or refurbished? - 3 or 5 gallon keg. I usually brew 3 - 3 1/2 gallon batches because of limitations on my equipment and I drink most of the beer solo, outside a few friends. Buying a 5 gallon keg Gives me some wiggle room for those 3+ gallon batches and the occasional 5 g batch. So the question is if I am consistently brewing 3 g batches and putting them in a 5 g keg does that have any negative impact such as extra O2, or use of a lot more C02? It seems 3G and 5g kegs are the same in price so why not get a 5 g. The cheapest set is a refurbished 5 g pin lock keg with 5 lbs c02 tank. A ball lock is about $30 to pin and a new keg is about $50 more. Thanks in advance!
I have bought 2 of these http://www.homebrewing.org/AIH-New-5-Gallon-Corny-Keg-Ball-Lock_p_5100.html recently and think they are a great value. Ball locks seem much more popular in my area so I went with those.
Unless a used corny has some obvious damage, it will last the rest of your life (same as new). Personally I went with used 5'ers . . . rare to find 3 gallons used so those I bought new. If you're a serious kegger (and who kegs that isn't?) plan on getting at least twice what you need. The reason: you will need them . . . this is how you develop your pipeline which is one of the major benefits of kegging. There is no problem putting 3.5 gallons (or any lesser quantity) in a 5'er. The beer doesn't know if the headspace is 1 inch or 1 foot. You'll use a smidgen of extra gas when burbing. You didn't ask, but decide now if you want barbed fittings or male flare. I went with MF for both liquid/gas and have been pleased. The only thing worse than a 5 lb CO2 tank is a 2.5 lb'er. Before you buy any tank, learn how it will be refill'ed in your area. Also, price what refills/exchanges cost for 5 vs 20 and you will know which way to go. My experience is most all suppliers will work with you on mixing/matching components so don't feel locked into something that doesn't quite meet your needs. Browse around on the Home Bar Forum for more juicy tidbits. You're going to love kegging.
Pin Lock versus Ball lock: It really doesn't matter. I keep a small quantity of replacement connectors, etc. on hand. Parts being more widely available is irrelevant if you don't need to buy them frequently. The only advice I would give you here is that it's more convenient for them all to be the same type. (FWIW, I have all ball lock) New versus refurbished: Buy used. Refurbish them yourself. 90% of the job is replacing the o-rings, which you're going to do from time to time anyway. You may occasionally encounter a slightly deformed lid that you need to coax into a usable shape, but you'll be doing things like that down the road anyway. While there are exceptions - a cracked weld on a post, e.g. - a stainless steel keg is remarkably resistant to terminal illnesses. You'll kick yourself if you settle on a 5 lb CO2 tank. Get a 20lb or two. Look to Craigslist for that. You'd be amazed at what people are willing to practically give away in the name of cleaning out the garage. And, since CO2 tanks really don't have a lot of uses, people tend to not know what to do with them, so they'll let them go cheap. I would advise patience and perseverance when using this approach.
