Lager Pitching Rate

I usually pitch 2 packets of that yeast into 5.5 gallons of similar wort. But I'll also say this: RDWHAHB. Cheers!

 

If I'm reading Fermentis stat sheet correctly they only advertise >6 billion cells/gram when packaged. True to the industry, it seems manufacturers don't want to burden you with too many facts. But even at 20b if the packets were new and you re-hydrated this might still be on the skinny side.

 

Yep, and for a lager that size or larger, I’d even shoot for 2B/mL/°P.

That’s why the “cost” benefit of dry yeast doesn’t hold up when it comes to lagers, in my mind. A mid gravity lager ends up requiring 3-4 packs of dry yeast for a 5 gallon batch. At $6 each from my LHBS, that’s $18-24 + tax. Or I can pick up a pack of WL or Wyeast for about $7, a pound of DME for 5 bucks and make a 1 gallon starter. For half the price, I can get as much yeast as I need, plus liquid gives you more strains to select from. And that’s assuming you aren’t buying DME in bulk or repitching yeast.

Don’t get me wrong, I’ve enjoyed the beers I’ve made with 34/70. It’s just too expensive to get a proper pitch rate with it, so I gave it up (unless I need to ferment a “lager” at warmer temps, but that’s another story).

Of course, your beer will probably turn out fine. Don’t worry. You’re fermenting a bit high, so you probably don’t need as strong of a pitch as you would in the 40s. This yeast works pretty well at those temps, though, as long as you aren’t expecting a super-clean result.

 

Honestly I’d check it before you pitch more yeast. After ~48 hours, the yeast you pitched should probably have reproduced enough to start fermentation, and the new yeast wouldn’t do much.

As far as ester formation goes, its reported that the majority of that happens during the reproductive phase (i.e., the first 24-48 hours or so post-pitch), so ideally your pitch temperature should be the lowest point before cold crashing. Fermentis says that yeast is good between 48.1° and 71.6°, so you should be okay. Just note that most lager strains have a much lower recommended maximum temperature, so it likely won’t be as clean as if you had pitched at, say, 45-48° and raised the temperature toward then end of fermentation to ensure complete attenuation and elimination of diacetyl.

Edit: just read that last question. Yes. I aim for 2 billion cells per mL/°P and always start my lagers at or below the minimum recommended temp. They’ll work more slowly there, but they won’t be as messy. Then the heat produced by fermentation usually bumps it up enough to get it within the recommended range.

 

What's to stop you from buying one pack of dry yeast and making a starter from it? You save the cost difference of the yeast and you could make a smaller starter because you start with more yeast. This is doing better than liquid yeast on the cost side. However, I suspect few dry yeast enthusiasts are won over by this meager savings.

What your calculation ignores are the benefits of dry yeast. Two that often sway me to make lagers from dry yeasts:
-stability, for those who must rely on getting yeast in the mail. I live in a cool climate and seldom have to deal with the scorching temps that others must deal with, but old liquid yeast has a low cell count even if it hasn't been subject to the insides of a hot truck. I can't tell you how many times I have been shipped a lager yeast that is already 3 months old).
-minimal preparation, for those who suddenly find some time to brew or otherwise want to get brewing soon, rather than plan out a starter, a step-up, a cold-crash, etc.

 

I would be leery of a significant temp drop a couple of days after pitching. My worry would be the yeast just starting the exponential growth phase could be adversely affected by a reduction in temp . . . possibly this could make the problem worse. I do think it's a good idea to have a spare packet of yeast (or two) just laying around.

Caveat: I only do a couple of lagers a year, if others are more skilled in temp management of lager yeasts please chime in.

 

If this were my beer, I would probably let it ride at this point, i.e. not add more yeast when it arrives in a couple of days. Also, if I wanted to reduce the temp, I'd do it very soon, i.e. while the yeast are still in lag phase.

 

When I use dry lager yeast, 2 packs for just shy of 6 gallon. I would have used 4 packs for your batch size, but I'm sure 3 will do just fine. Might just take a little longer, possibly.

With liquid yeast for a standard gravity lager, I use just a single vial or pack but always with a two step stir plate starter (usually 1.5L to 2.5-3L) to get me around 450-500B cells estimated.

Works very well for me, with relatively quick and super clean fermentation at 48F.

 

Speaking of temperatures and 34/70. This particular strain is widely reported to ferment exceptionally clean at higher than normal lager temperatures. I think the last lager I did with it I fermented somewhere around 60 F. It came out quite clean. Although I hesitate to mention it, I believe there is a Brulosophy experiment comparing lagers fermented warm and cool with this yeast. Cheers!

 

OP, for your next lager you might consider Mangrove Jack's M76 dry Bavarian Lager yeast if it is available in your market. I have used all of the German and Czech liquid strains, 34/70, and S-189 before, but the M76 is now my go-to strain. It's clean, reliable, and makes very good lagers. Mostly bocks, helles, and dunkels in my house.

And btw, enjoy your Rye lager. It will be fine.

 

I'm with vikeman and utahbeerdude...i'd let it ride and actually increase fermentation temperature if anything...or at least ramp it up. Had a lager that was lauded by the homebrew club that was fermented with that strain up around 60-62F...and you could say that one was underpitched as well.

 

Yes.

 

I brew lots of lagers in the 1.05-1.06 range. I only pitch one pack of dry yeast. If there is something wrong with my beer I cannot tell! Take care!

 

Very true. At my LHBS, the cost difference is only $1 between wet/dry yeast, so it’s pretty negligible, but dry yeast is definitely still cheaper, although I know dry yeast manufacturers don’t recommend a starter, for what it’s worth. And on the shipping thing, I get that. I lived in Phoenix and never tried ordering yeast online, even in the winter! As for spur of the moment brewing, I’m more likely to stick with ales, but definitely dry yeast!