Late Addition Hops

Whole hops trap even more wort than pellets. If wort loss is a major concern, you might want to consider replacing some of your hop additions with hop extracts.

 

If you like what you're getting but just feel like you should be getting more, adjust your mash and sparge process to have a higher pre-boil volume with the same gravity, as well as giving you more post-boil volume (gives more wort to be absorbed by dry hops).

There are numerous online calculators you can use that can figure it out for you. I use www.brewersfriend.com, because it's easy to use and I kinda have my system figured out, and I don't feel like trying too hard. @VikeMan has a really awesome spreadsheet figured out that I'm figuring is great, but I've never really figured out because I don't know how to work spreadsheets.

 

I used to add kettle hops commando, then went to a hops bag. Now I use a DIY hops spider. Brew before last I forgot the spider and reverted to commando. At least is was a good reminder of why it's a good idea (for me) to contain the hops.
There might be some reduction in utilization but I haven't tried to quantify it. For me, late additions now go in the spider, as long as I remember.

 

I would encourage you to consider utilizing cryo pellet hops for those late additions (and dry hopping if you choose). You can use them in a 1:2 ratio (i.e., 1 ounce of cryo pellet hops = 2 ounces of regular pellet hops).

Cryo hops decrease wort wastage:

“SAVINGS & SUSTAINABILITY:

CRYO HOPS is designed with efficiency and savings in mind. The leafy material of the hop cone is removed during production, reducing the amount of plant material in the brewhouse. This translates to less trub loss and results in increased brewhouse yields - simultaneously improving beer quality and the bottom line.

During R&D trials, brewers commonly reported yield increases of three to five percent. For every barrel of beer gained, water, malt, utilities and labor are also utilized more efficiently.”

https://www.yakimachief.com/wp-content/uploads/Cryo-Hops-Product-Overview.pdf

 

Heh. You can just pretend it's an "app" and not a spreadsheet, and type away in the input boxes.

 

I don't have the attention span or will to make it work for me. I know it would, and if I sat down and tried to figure it out, I'm sure I could. But I won't. Been as source of consternation for bosses for a bit, but I figure it makes them earn their cut.

 

@VikeMan FWIW I dropped out of engineering school 20 years ago to do something hands on, because I didn't like just sitting there doing mathematical proof and just want to make something, and I am still doing it.

@Prep8611 said he was "barbarian brewing" in another thread. I'm gonna say I'm doing "Celtic brewing": somewhat advanced, but I don't have a written history.

 

I use hole hops a lot. One way to not lose so much wort is to squeeze the hops. I put on a pair of surgical gloves, rinse in starsan solution and given a genial squeeze.

Really crushing them may lead to off flavors,so I'm told, but so far, works great.

 

Why do you think the hops are underutilized? Big proponent of never containing the hops. Always add them “commando” in the kettle and the fermenter, that way you’re destined to maximize utilization.

If you want to make heavily hopped beers you’re going to lose wort/beer. There’s no way around it.

You can look into reusing hops. There’s some new literature/studies that have come out recently on that. Been meaning to try it.

 

Well, that's sort of the point, and science of bittering - it takes time in the boil for those compounds to come out and be 'absorbed' into the beer (yeah, may not be technical terms.)
I would split the difference. Add an ounce of fairly high alpha hops early on as your bittering addition, then load up on the late hops for aroma and flavor.
One of the hallmarks of the NEIPA trend is minimal to none bittering additions, and loading up on late or post boil additions - some don't use any at all during boil, instead with flame-out, whirlpool and dry hopping.

 

Yep old school recipes I found always have 60 min additions.

With very few exceptions, I still do today. Live the bitter.

Belgian pals of mine have a saying, bitter beir is best. Funny cause not all Belgian beers are bitter

 

@patto1ro will probably have more/better info on this, but I think that used to be standard practice in British breweries. Hops used first in the hopback or dry-hop, then reused as the bittering addition.

 

I was actually referring more to reusing dry hops again as dry hops in another beer...

 

https://www.amazon.com/Hop-Spider-Strainer-Fermenter-Stainless/dp/B083N9VFLB/

I use one of these and it's made things a lot easier.

 

Seems like it may work, but the old way that I mentioned would work way better. Aromatic conponents (volatile oils)stripped, but bittering components (alpha and to a lesser extent, beta acids) remain, as they haven't been isomerized.

 

Not necessarily. A lot of the new research is saying there’s a shockingly high amount of aromatic compounds left in the hop matter after dry hopping.

 

I don't doubt that this is true, but please provide links