Learning from mistakes - which mistake did what?

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by DeweyCheatem-n-Howe, Sep 7, 2016.

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  1. GetMeAnIPA

    GetMeAnIPA Pooh-Bah (2,559) Mar 28, 2009 California
    Pooh-Bah

    I'll will add that if you are brewing 1 gallon batches then ensure you are brewing at higher volume for Gravity samples. The tube can be kinda larger and if you take a pre boil gravity reading, that can be dumped into the boil if needed and the hydrometer is clean, and then again post boil you're losing volume.

    To address you question about sitting on a counter top, the issue is going to be temperature. In the middle to late part of the day the temp is going to rise making your yeast very active. Then at night or morning the temp is going to cool causing the yeast to slow down. Then putting into a cool place after fermentation means the yeast are going to slow down even more. It would be better to have a cool place in the first 2 days and then allow the temp to rise.

    Higher temp = more active yeast, too active yeast means excessive esters and phenols.

    Lower temp means = less active yeast, less esters and phenols.

    If you start high then go low that means your yeast will be very active in the beginning creating "off flavors" and then become dormant so they won't clean up the off flavors.

    I start my beers cool and then let rise.
     
  2. DeweyCheatem-n-Howe

    DeweyCheatem-n-Howe Initiate (0) May 23, 2015 Massachusetts

    Thank you for the responses. I kept the house at roughly 72-74 while the initial fermentation was going on, and was planning on storing it for 2 weeks in a wine fridge set at 66 (the highest it can go, covered with a towel so sunlight can't get through). I'm guessing then that I'd be better off putting it in a closet that stays in the low 70's instead?
     
  3. corbmoster

    corbmoster Pundit (848) Dec 15, 2014 Texas
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    I'd be willing to bet the wine fride has a UV filter / film on the glass to not allow UV light in. If not, an easier alternative to using a towel would be to cover the glass with foil, or an awesome poster. 72 - 74 is just too hot for most yeast strains. If that is the only temp you have to work with I would suggest a heat tolerant type such as some of the saison yeast. 66 is actually a good temp for most ale yeast. So I would just do fermentation in there start to finish.
     
  4. GetMeAnIPA

    GetMeAnIPA Pooh-Bah (2,559) Mar 28, 2009 California
    Pooh-Bah

    The best option is putting the wort in the fridge, 2nd closest and last the counter top. The first 48 hours or so are the most important, as that is when the majority of "off flavors" are produced. Depending on the yeast strain but if the ambient air is in the 70s the wort during fermentation is going to be too high. If you're making an IPA you want a neutral yeast character to allow the hops to shine. If you are fermenting in the 70s that's not good, you want in the low 60s.

    For example my last hoppy pale ale using WLP001 I fermented at 62 degrees for the first 4-5 days then slowing ramping up to 66/67. As yeast eat the sugar they become lazy and by increasing the temp keeps them active to finish up the small amount of sugar and clean up off flavors. Now when brewed my saison I started at 72 because I want more yeast character, and finished at 76.

    Always start cool and let the temp rise not the other way around.
     
    DeweyCheatem-n-Howe likes this.
  5. corbmoster

    corbmoster Pundit (848) Dec 15, 2014 Texas
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    @DeweyCheatem-n-Howe , you said that 66 is the highest that the temp will go. How do you know that? Is there a thermometer in the fridge, is it a setting on the dial? If you have not, I would recommend putting a thermometer in a bottle / vase / container of water and leaving it in your fridge to correlate the temps between the fridge an a thermometer you have calibrated against boiling water or ice water to make sure they are accurate.
     
  6. DeweyCheatem-n-Howe

    DeweyCheatem-n-Howe Initiate (0) May 23, 2015 Massachusetts

    The highest setting is 66, and it does have a digital thermometer to give you the current temp.

    I started this latest batch Tuesday night, so it was already out on the counter in low-70s ambient temperature for a couple of days. It's now in the fridge, so at least the next 2 weeks of fermentation will be at a more appropriate ale yeast temperature. I'm sure it will turn out beer, but I'm kind of morbidly interested to see what off-flavors it ends up with, if any. Could lead to a "Batch 2" list of mistakes.
     
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  7. GetMeAnIPA

    GetMeAnIPA Pooh-Bah (2,559) Mar 28, 2009 California
    Pooh-Bah

    Have you brewed extract beers yet or did you jump into all grain?
     
  8. corbmoster

    corbmoster Pundit (848) Dec 15, 2014 Texas
    Trader

    This is how I learned "what not to do" as well. I'm still learning from my mistakes as a matter of fact. If there is a brewing club near you, I'd suggest hanging out with them.
     
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  9. DeweyCheatem-n-Howe

    DeweyCheatem-n-Howe Initiate (0) May 23, 2015 Massachusetts

    Jumped right into all grain
     
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  10. DeweyCheatem-n-Howe

    DeweyCheatem-n-Howe Initiate (0) May 23, 2015 Massachusetts

    Day 1 of fermentation (Tuesday):
    [​IMG]

    Today after being put into the wine fridge:
    [​IMG]
     
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  11. corbmoster

    corbmoster Pundit (848) Dec 15, 2014 Texas
    Trader

    I'd let it ride man. When fermentation is done, Id' bottle carb them at room temp. If after 2 weeks the first bottle doesn't taste good, just give them more time. My first beer was fermented too warm and tasted fairly bad. A few months later it was pretty good.
     
    DeweyCheatem-n-Howe likes this.
  12. rocdoc1

    rocdoc1 Savant (1,215) Jan 13, 2006 New Mexico

    Keeping in mind that fermentation temp is 6-8 degrees higher than ambient temp, at least when fermentation is very active, I'd set the wine fridge at 58F for the first day, bump it 2 degrees every day until it's at 66.
     
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  13. GetMeAnIPA

    GetMeAnIPA Pooh-Bah (2,559) Mar 28, 2009 California
    Pooh-Bah

    You'll learn from your successes and mistakes. However, if you're having trouble after a few batches trying extract helps minimize the variables. A lot of people start all grain, I started extract and when I started brewing good beers and understand the process I switch to all grain. It was easier for me to understand 5 steps versus 8 at first. Each to their own. Enjoy the process, beer will happen and keep posting on this forum. BA and "how to brew" helped me make great beer.

    Cheers!
     
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  14. DeweyCheatem-n-Howe

    DeweyCheatem-n-Howe Initiate (0) May 23, 2015 Massachusetts

    Welp, the mash process worked this time - I have beer, not wort. Cracked it at the office today to share over lunch, everyone agreed, "yes, this is beer."

    It's not bad. A bit overly bitter, still too much trub getting into the bottles and overcarbonated to a gushy degree (which exacerbated the trub issue), but in all it ended up being a beer.

    Learn from every batch, I suppose, and this one was a huge step up from the last one.

    Nose was wonderful with the Mosaic and Chinook dry hop.

    Thanks everyone for the insight and suggestions - on my second try, I have created beer!
     
    GetMeAnIPA likes this.
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