Lets clear it up

So other than irish moss or gelatin the keys to making clear beer are:

Strong rolling boil
Quick cooling
Racking to Secondary (debatable)
Cold Crashing prior to bottling
Filtering

Tertiary is never necessary, and not recommended.

Also as a note, I've heard that another name for 'clear' beer is 'water'. The accepted vernacular is 'bright' I believe.

 

Cold crashing works for me. I use Irish moss as well but a good cold crash does wonders.

 

Cold crash: when fermentation is done, lower temp as rapidly as you can to just above freezing for several days before racking.

There are also finings you can add to the fermenter that will attract certain haze forming compounds and settle out.

When you rack to a bottle bucket be careful not to disturb the sediment in the fermenter.

Store your bottles cold ( after they are carbonated!) for a second bout of cold crashing that shoul help compact yeast and other particulates.

Decant your bottles carefully to avoid disturbing sediment. If you have hazy beer but are not seeing the particulates, it is probably chill haze which fades as the beer warms. The ways to get rid of that are by encouragingng the break I the kettle and with finings at the end of fermentation
.

 

What kind of beer did you brew? Recipes? Some beers are never going to be bright.

 

When are you noticing the haze? Is it only after being in the bottle? Or are you seeing it in the fermenter as well?

Personally, I don't care about clarity, I cant see it once I drink it.

 

If you are willing to exercise patience, time & gravity will make any beer clear.

Cheers!

 

I'll debate the quick cooling point, I dont chill very fast and neither do big breweries

A couple you forgot

1 - Good brewing practices, eg no steeping grains that need to be mashed - starch causes lots of haze

and the biggest one of all (esp for a new brewer)

TIME! let it sit

 

Big breweries generally put their product through industrial sized filters, homebrewers don't usually have access to that.
Its common knowledge that rapid cooling causes haze forming proteins to clump together and fall out of solution. You may have nice results without it, but it does help so I thought it was worth mentioning.

 

“Its common knowledge that rapid cooling causes haze forming proteins to clump together and fall out of solution.” As a point of clarification (no pun intended) but the process of cold crashing (dropping the temperature down quickly for a few days) is to get yeast to drop out (flocculate).

The aspect of getting proteins and polyphenols (tannins) to ‘coagulate’ and precipitate out of solution is achieved via lagering (cold conditioning for several weeks/months).

Cheers!

 

Call me silly, but I swear the whirfloc works better than irish moss, despite being the same thing.

 

I disagree with

This just isnt true, lots of craft breweries use plate chillers and most of the wort sits in the kettle for an extended period while a small amount drains out and is chilled. Also I cant say Ive ever been to a craft brewery that filters their beer, not saying they dont, but Ive yet to see one.

I get crystal clear beer and it takes me anywhere from 1hr-4hr to cool down my beers depending on the time of year, you also have people doing no chill brewing and they get nice clear beer as well

IMO the best targets are ensuring no starch in the beer (steeping malts that need to be mashed), picking a flocculant yeast, and giving the beer time

 

@ssam, upon re-reading your post it would appear that by "rapid cooling" you seem to be referring to cooling down the wort (vs. cooling down the beer; cold crashing). My apologies for my not catching that on my first reading.

Cheers!

 

All else being equal...plain gelatin added at bottling (1 tsp / 5G) ==> clear beer

Add 1 tsp gelatin to 100 ml 'cold' water.
Stir well
Nuke 20-30 seconds (no boiling!)
Cool
Pitch into bottling bucket

 

i've had success using Clarity Ferm: http://www.whitelabs.com/other-products/wln4000-clarity-ferm