London III

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by jburke06, Apr 9, 2016.

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  1. jburke06

    jburke06 Initiate (0) Nov 19, 2011 New York

    Hey guys and gals. I will be brewing a northeast style ipa this week, my second go around. After reading many threads it seems that the London Wyeast 1318 is best to use. Here are my questions:

    1. Is there a comparable dry yeast to the London Wyeast 1318 (just curious)?

    2. For fermenting purposes. After wort is cooled down, should I transfer to glass carboy? bucket?

    3. If it's the glass carboy, should I use a blow off tube?

    4. Fermenting process; glass carboy 3 days (once i reach my FG)? Then switch to keg and dry hop for 2 weeks, then force carbonate for 1 week?

    Any suggestions would be great on how to make this bitch cloudy and juicy. Thanks
     
  2. GormBrewhouse

    GormBrewhouse Pooh-Bah (2,111) Jun 24, 2015 Vermont
    Pooh-Bah

    1. Don't know
    2. either will work
    3. Never hurts to use a blow off till the aggressive ferment has calmed down then install air lock
    4. I bottle, so I would let it ferment till it was nearly done then transfer to secondary and dry hop for 3-7 days then bottle. Others will have a differnet approach.
     
  3. chavinparty

    chavinparty Zealot (653) Jan 4, 2015 New Hampshire

    I would ferment for at least 5 days. a week or 2 for bigger IPAs. Dryhop for 5 days but everyone's got a different approach with this. If the airlock is still active it's just bouncing all the aroma out of the ferm IMO. That being said I have dryhopped after 3 days of fermentation and produced a solid IPA. But for a hop slap in the face I think you would want to rack onto more hops or just wait longer before dryhopping. My 2 cents
     
    pweis909 likes this.
  4. SFACRKnight

    SFACRKnight Grand Pooh-Bah (3,348) Jan 20, 2012 Colorado
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    I have been working with 1318 alot as of late. It is an aggressive fermenting yeast that throws a huge rocky krausen despite using ferm cap. It will need a blow off tube. Let it ride 5 to 7 days in primary, give it a huge dose of dry hops in primary for two days, transfer to the keg and add a second charge of dryhops. I split mine into two additions at three oz of hops each.
    edit, use whatever fermenter you prefer. I have had haze in carboys and buckets. I dont think the fluid dynamics are there to push yeast out of suspension.
     
  5. pweis909

    pweis909 Grand Pooh-Bah (3,250) Aug 13, 2005 Wisconsin
    Pooh-Bah

    4. I would never move from the primary to the keg after only 3 days. If you have success with this approach, by all means continue to follow it, but I am surprised as I find there is still work for the yeast to do even after they reach FG.

    But I never worked with 1318. The next batch I have planned will use it.
     
    SFACRKnight likes this.
  6. Brew_Betty

    Brew_Betty Initiate (0) Jan 5, 2015 Wisconsin

    I have a batch in progress with 1318. 6 gallons in an 8 gallon bucket didn't blow off. 1L starter. 45 seconds of pure O2. OG was 1.067.

    Gravity was 1.020 after 7 days at 65F. Temperature was increased to 70F on day 7. It finished at 1.013 after 12 days. The krausen dropped before I kegged and dry hopped at day 12.

    Kegging this beer at day three would have been premature and not beneficial.
     
  7. PortLargo

    PortLargo Pooh-Bah (1,831) Oct 19, 2012 Florida
    Pooh-Bah

    If you have the typical starter kit of bucket/carboy take a look at their volumes. Unless the carboy is 6.5 gallons you don't want to use it for a primary (5 gal of wort). Rule of thumb is 1/3 of the primary should be headspace.

    There is never a time you shouldn't have a blow-off tube ready. More important is the health/quantity of your yeast? How old is the packet? what's the OG of your recipe? . . . this determines the size of your yeast starter. Yeast do some of their most important work after active fermentation is complete (click here for the details). Recommend you give considerable effort to measuring/maintaining temp of the primary.
     
  8. utahbeerdude

    utahbeerdude Maven (1,374) May 2, 2006 Utah

    I've made one beer in this style; I used 1318. (FWIW, OG = 1.053, FG = 1.013.) From my experience and from reading about other brewers' experiences, I highly recommend this yeast for this style. Other yeasts may be suitable, but this yeast will knock it out of the park.

    Here are some details of my process. The beer fermented at 65 F in an 8 gallon Speidel fermenter; no blowoff needed. It did throw a large, rocky krausen, as is typical. I dry hopped with 6 oz total (2 oz each of Amarillo, Centennial, Simcoe) on day 17. The hops went straight into the primary in a nylon mesh bag weighted with stainless steel washers. On day 24 I racked to the keg, with attention to minimizing O2 pickup. The beer was quite cloudy during the dry hop; some have argued that good contact with the yeast during dry hopping is essential for this style, owing to biotransformations that take place.

    I went with about 50/50 chloride/sulfate (125 ppm each), built up from RO. Next time I'd probably push the ratio in favor of the chloride, as this appears to be more typical for the style.

    Overall, I was quite happy with this beer. I had it on tap for about 5 1/2 months -- it was still nicely cloudy and very aromatic when the keg finally kicked.

    Cheers!
     
    PortLargo likes this.
  9. jburke06

    jburke06 Initiate (0) Nov 19, 2011 New York

    Thanks for all the feedback. Quick question on using the London III, I'm not using a starter with it, I'm just pitching right from the bag, is that alright? Will I Still get a quality hoppy, hazy, juicy beer? Thanks
     
  10. chavinparty

    chavinparty Zealot (653) Jan 4, 2015 New Hampshire

    You will get water trash. Use 2 or make a starter
     
  11. Brew_Betty

    Brew_Betty Initiate (0) Jan 5, 2015 Wisconsin

    The amount of yeast to pitch is determined by OG and batch size. Age of the yeast pack is also a factor.
     
    LuskusDelph likes this.
  12. runbirddrinkbeer

    runbirddrinkbeer Pooh-Bah (1,722) Oct 24, 2009 Florida
    BA4LYFE Society Pooh-Bah

    Strongly suggest you make a 1 liter starter for a "single IPA" and a 2 liter starter for a double IPA. Best to just bite the bullet and gear up, you'll be happier with the results. The only time I don't make a starter from a smack pack is when I am intentionally underpitching a Hefe.
     
  13. SFACRKnight

    SFACRKnight Grand Pooh-Bah (3,348) Jan 20, 2012 Colorado
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    Alot of pro brewers are underpitching for these beers fwiw.
     
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  14. Brew_Betty

    Brew_Betty Initiate (0) Jan 5, 2015 Wisconsin

    At what rate and why?
     
  15. SFACRKnight

    SFACRKnight Grand Pooh-Bah (3,348) Jan 20, 2012 Colorado
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    It was covered in another thread. Maybe in the neipa yeast experiment thread. Jeff Erway from La Cumbre is the brewer I first heard it from.
     
  16. Brew_Betty

    Brew_Betty Initiate (0) Jan 5, 2015 Wisconsin

    Perhaps @erway would be willing to answer my question. Underpitching makes sense to me in many situations. American IPA with American ale yeast isn't one of them. Is SFACRKnight saying La Cumbre makes NEIPA beers now?
     
  17. SFACRKnight

    SFACRKnight Grand Pooh-Bah (3,348) Jan 20, 2012 Colorado
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    Whoa, I did not say that. Let me clarify and say many brewers are under pitching their IPAs.
    edit, looking back through my posts I see where I made the jump from NEIPA to IPA. my bad...
     
  18. runbirddrinkbeer

    runbirddrinkbeer Pooh-Bah (1,722) Oct 24, 2009 Florida
    BA4LYFE Society Pooh-Bah

    I saw that thread or one like it also and I think it _did_refer to using underpitching In NEIPAs but I don't have the Cojones to underpitch my first attempt at a NEDIPA (yesterday was brewday) .....and with the significant time and effort I invested in this "project" I wanted to limit the possibility of brewing 5.5 gallons of drainpour.
     
  19. GetMeAnIPA

    GetMeAnIPA Pooh-Bah (2,559) Mar 28, 2009 California
    Pooh-Bah

    First you should understand why you use a starter and yeast cell count. Using starter or just using 1318 isn't going to give you a "quality, hazy, juicy" beer.

    I almost feel like this is a troll thread based on some of your questions, like this and then transferring a beer after 3 days of fermentation?! You need 3 days of the same gravity reading to determine its done fermenting.
     
  20. GetMeAnIPA

    GetMeAnIPA Pooh-Bah (2,559) Mar 28, 2009 California
    Pooh-Bah

    I didn't read that thread but maybe the reason why would be to add more yeast esters, which makes it more "juicy". Like under pitching hefes to add more banana flavor. Curios if @SFACRKnight can expand on the why.
     
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