London III

1. Don't know
2. either will work
3. Never hurts to use a blow off till the aggressive ferment has calmed down then install air lock
4. I bottle, so I would let it ferment till it was nearly done then transfer to secondary and dry hop for 3-7 days then bottle. Others will have a differnet approach.

 

I would ferment for at least 5 days. a week or 2 for bigger IPAs. Dryhop for 5 days but everyone's got a different approach with this. If the airlock is still active it's just bouncing all the aroma out of the ferm IMO. That being said I have dryhopped after 3 days of fermentation and produced a solid IPA. But for a hop slap in the face I think you would want to rack onto more hops or just wait longer before dryhopping. My 2 cents

 

I have been working with 1318 alot as of late. It is an aggressive fermenting yeast that throws a huge rocky krausen despite using ferm cap. It will need a blow off tube. Let it ride 5 to 7 days in primary, give it a huge dose of dry hops in primary for two days, transfer to the keg and add a second charge of dryhops. I split mine into two additions at three oz of hops each.
edit, use whatever fermenter you prefer. I have had haze in carboys and buckets. I dont think the fluid dynamics are there to push yeast out of suspension.

 

4. I would never move from the primary to the keg after only 3 days. If you have success with this approach, by all means continue to follow it, but I am surprised as I find there is still work for the yeast to do even after they reach FG.

But I never worked with 1318. The next batch I have planned will use it.

 

I have a batch in progress with 1318. 6 gallons in an 8 gallon bucket didn't blow off. 1L starter. 45 seconds of pure O2. OG was 1.067.

Gravity was 1.020 after 7 days at 65F. Temperature was increased to 70F on day 7. It finished at 1.013 after 12 days. The krausen dropped before I kegged and dry hopped at day 12.

Kegging this beer at day three would have been premature and not beneficial.

 

If you have the typical starter kit of bucket/carboy take a look at their volumes. Unless the carboy is 6.5 gallons you don't want to use it for a primary (5 gal of wort). Rule of thumb is 1/3 of the primary should be headspace.

There is never a time you shouldn't have a blow-off tube ready. More important is the health/quantity of your yeast? How old is the packet? what's the OG of your recipe? . . . this determines the size of your yeast starter. Yeast do some of their most important work after active fermentation is complete (click here for the details). Recommend you give considerable effort to measuring/maintaining temp of the primary.

 

I've made one beer in this style; I used 1318. (FWIW, OG = 1.053, FG = 1.013.) From my experience and from reading about other brewers' experiences, I highly recommend this yeast for this style. Other yeasts may be suitable, but this yeast will knock it out of the park.

Here are some details of my process. The beer fermented at 65 F in an 8 gallon Speidel fermenter; no blowoff needed. It did throw a large, rocky krausen, as is typical. I dry hopped with 6 oz total (2 oz each of Amarillo, Centennial, Simcoe) on day 17. The hops went straight into the primary in a nylon mesh bag weighted with stainless steel washers. On day 24 I racked to the keg, with attention to minimizing O2 pickup. The beer was quite cloudy during the dry hop; some have argued that good contact with the yeast during dry hopping is essential for this style, owing to biotransformations that take place.

I went with about 50/50 chloride/sulfate (125 ppm each), built up from RO. Next time I'd probably push the ratio in favor of the chloride, as this appears to be more typical for the style.

Overall, I was quite happy with this beer. I had it on tap for about 5 1/2 months -- it was still nicely cloudy and very aromatic when the keg finally kicked.

Cheers!

 

You will get water trash. Use 2 or make a starter

 

The amount of yeast to pitch is determined by OG and batch size. Age of the yeast pack is also a factor.

 

Strongly suggest you make a 1 liter starter for a "single IPA" and a 2 liter starter for a double IPA. Best to just bite the bullet and gear up, you'll be happier with the results. The only time I don't make a starter from a smack pack is when I am intentionally underpitching a Hefe.

 

Alot of pro brewers are underpitching for these beers fwiw.

 

At what rate and why?

 

It was covered in another thread. Maybe in the neipa yeast experiment thread. Jeff Erway from La Cumbre is the brewer I first heard it from.

 

Perhaps @erway would be willing to answer my question. Underpitching makes sense to me in many situations. American IPA with American ale yeast isn't one of them. Is SFACRKnight saying La Cumbre makes NEIPA beers now?

 

Whoa, I did not say that. Let me clarify and say many brewers are under pitching their IPAs.
edit, looking back through my posts I see where I made the jump from NEIPA to IPA. my bad...

 

I saw that thread or one like it also and I think it _did_refer to using underpitching In NEIPAs but I don't have the Cojones to underpitch my first attempt at a NEDIPA (yesterday was brewday) .....and with the significant time and effort I invested in this "project" I wanted to limit the possibility of brewing 5.5 gallons of drainpour.

 

First you should understand why you use a starter and yeast cell count. Using starter or just using 1318 isn't going to give you a "quality, hazy, juicy" beer.

I almost feel like this is a troll thread based on some of your questions, like this and then transferring a beer after 3 days of fermentation?! You need 3 days of the same gravity reading to determine its done fermenting.

 

I didn't read that thread but maybe the reason why would be to add more yeast esters, which makes it more "juicy". Like under pitching hefes to add more banana flavor. Curios if @SFACRKnight can expand on the why.