I will post pics of my set up and everything I have. I have had this kegerator for a few years now. I have been having a foam issue the whole time. Here are the mods I did. First I adjusted the thermostat internally so I could make it colder. I am able to get down as low as 36 degrees now. I have it set between 38-40 degrees. I also made a tower cooler with a pc fan and a box to force cool air up into the tower. I’ll start off with the faucet. It came with a spring in side it so the handle will flick back after a pour so there is no chance that it could remain open. I removed that thinking the beer was getting all mixed up within the spring plus I didn’t care for it doing that to much. Next is the beer line. I believe the line is about 4-6 feet long I’ve read where it should be closer to 8ft. Should I replace the line with a longer one? We will move down to the coupler. I have notice that there is a small elbow that bends 90degrees coming off of the top that connects to the beer line I thought normally they are straight could this be an issue also It has a torpedo valve with a small spring in there. Is this a common set up? Should I buy a new coupler if so which kind? Lastly the co2 regulator seems a bit cheap also the one time I was loosing the knob to lower the psi and the whole knob popped right off. I had to screw it back on. I completely understand that all of the stuff that came with this set up would be cheap I’m just not sure what needs fixed and what I could get by with. I will post pics soon. Thanks for any feed back it’s greatly appreciated.
Beer temp and psi are what matter. Stable and known beer temp, known volumes of CO2 for the beer and apply the correct pressure. Longer lines will help, after “a few years” those original lines should have been long gone. Is there a height restriction on this unit with the keg in it? If not, replace the tail piece at the coupler with a standard straight barbed style. Since you will change the line, this will be easy. Depending on the hardware you have, you could need a washer, hose clamp and nut as well. The faucet is junk, replace with a forward sealing stainless Perlick. Do you clean this set up, and if you do, do you disassemble the faucet and coupler?
There is no height restrictions to replace that piece. Do you recommend replacing just that or the whole coupler? Will the torpedo valve work ok? Yes I clean the whole setup and remove all parts. I’ll look into that kind of faucet
Do what @DougC123 says. You did your homework and that is good. Thank you. From the sounds of it you have looked at the potential problem areas. Getting the beer to 38F is the first issue and everything follows after that. Your regulator may be junk. It's not accurate. That is a pretty common issue in fact, especially with crappy regulators. Consider replacing the regulator. A Taprite economy regulator is my recommendation but if you like to spend more you can get any name brand. If you are replacing the coupler be sure you have a "tailpiece" for a 3/16" ID beer line, called choker. It may ship with 5/16" tailpiece, though retailers that cater to home users should supply 3/16". Just check to be sure. 7' of beverage line. Less than 5' is too little. Between 6 and will make your life a bit easier. The length just regulates the velocity of the pour, that's it. So if it's too short beer will explode in the glass. Perlick Perls, stainless, are the cat's ass but if you want to save a few bucks a standard faucet, from a name brand manufacturer, is fine also. S/S is really the best bet. If it's stainless it will be quality. And get a faucet wrench if you have not already. Above all, don't be cheap and don't buy no-name made in China POS hardware. I'm telling you you will be sorry trying to save $12. Shit just don't work man. Let us know how it works out. Cheers.
So I have ordered a new regulator with a 1/4 tail piece. So my question now is if I were to buy a 1/4 air line I now need a 1/4 tail piece for the coupler. The one that is on there now is 1/8 super small air line. So when looking for the right connector to the coupler all I find are flat bottom tail pieces. I’m not sure what I should do here
The flat bottom tail piece is the standard and it is what you want on the liquid and gas sides of the coupler. Liquid side gets a beer washer and a nut. The gas side get a check valve and a nut. You should back each of these connections up with a hose clamp. You do not need 1/4” line, just dip the 3/16” in hot water and it will soften enough to fit over the barbs.
So here is where I currently stand. I have the perlick forward seal faucet hooked up along with 10 ft of 3/16 beer line into a straight tailpiece into the coupler. I a new taprite regulator but it is not connected yet still waiting on a new air hose and some connections. I have the psi set around 10-11psi. I’m still trying to get the right temp it’s right around 34 right now in side fridge but first pour is about 37 degrees. I just raise the temp a little bit. The first pour has about 1 1/2 in of foam. I’m trying to get closer to just a 1/2in. Any further suggestions? Could it possibly be because the beer is to cold?
Before you pour a beer what does the beer in the line look like - solid beer or are there pockets of CO2 in the high spots? What beer is this?
Those pockets of CO2 are what causes foam when it gets to the faucet. They also tell you that you are not properly balanced. You likely need more pressure. I wouldn’t do anything now until you get the new regulator in so you know exactly where you are with pressure and can make intelligent small changes.
