Not mine, through google search: http://www.craftedpours.com/homebrew-recipe/maine-beer-dinner-double-ipa-clone-homebrew-recipe
Vitals: Color: Yellow-Orange OG: 1.069 ABV: 8.2% Malt: 2-Row, CaraPils, Caramel 40 & Dextrose Hops: Citra, Falconer’s Flight, Mosaic & Simcoe. Our first Double IPA – dry, refreshing and hoppy. We really focused on hop flavor and aroma here. To maximize hop character, we dry hopped Dinner twice with over 6 lbs. of hops per barrel Source So at 6 lbs/barrel, that implies 6lbs in 31 gallon...divide by 6 gets you about 1lb of dry hops in a 5 gallon batch of beer... Also with an og around 1069 that means it finishes ~1.009, so keeping cara malts down to a pound or less.
Dry hopping doesn't scale 1:1. Larger systems require proportionally more dry hopping to achieve the same flavor/aroma. Also a beer with that amount of dry hopping will oxidize very quickly if it isn't packaged properly. I've experienced and seen many pictures on this site of beers that oxidized in the bottle or keg, particularly dry hopped beer. One characteristic is a beer that darkens after packaging.
I found this one and though he says it didn't come out well, I'm gonna try it based on the fact that he did the leg-work messaging the brewer. http://meekbrewingco.blogspot.ca/2015/06/batch-100-maine-beer-co-dinner-clone-no.html
A 1# dry hop per 5 gallons almost justifies their $12 per pint price. Not really. Now that I know they claim 1# per 5gal dry hop, I will actually purchase this silly beer for $12 a pint. Most likely not more than once.
I know this thread is a little old, but did anyone actually brew one of the clones posted? If so, how did it turn out?
Yeah verily!! A tall 100 barrel Cylindroconical tank is markedly different from a 5 gallon homebrew batch in a bucket. Cheers! P.S. As was published in Dave Green's article entitled Advanced Dry Hopping: "Peter Wolfe also weighed in on the topic saying especially if a homebrewer is using a flat bottomed fermenter, there is little reason to layer in your hops, the surface area to volume ratio is much greater on a homebrew scale."
What do you mean by surface area? Surface area of what? ETA: Nevermind, I found the article. Referring to the top of the hops sitting in the cone apparently.
exactly as you guy came up with regarding the commercial dry hopping methods vs. hb level. I brewed up the version from the Sept issue of BYO, but with gigayeast's Conan strain and 6 oz dry hops. 1) Don't use Conan, use chico strain…although I've never had conan work all that well for me in regards to attenuation levels. 2) Had a hard time ultimately gauging vs. the real deal, but felt like that level of dry hops provided plenty of nose. Unfortunately the conan strain had under-attenuated (finished at 1016 or so) and so perception was thrown off when evaluating. Felt if i just used us-05 or some other more neutral & well-attenuating yeast, I would have been much happier with the clone attempt. You could also probably nix the cara40…
@telejunkie was it 1st gen of Conan? Subsequent batches attenuate better. Just a thought going forward.
I've used Yeast Bay's Conan and Omega's version and never had less than 80% attenuation with mashing at 152. I have heard complaints about the Giga strain
Every single time I have used Conan (about 5 times, from just about every producer) it has underattenuated.
Huh, cause basically I'll just split off like 4-6 oz of my yeast starter for subsequent batches…so most of my yeast these days are 1st gen. On that particular batch I also possibly under-oxygenated since my 02 tank ran out of juice somewhere maybe in the first quarter of the batch while chilling and I didn't have a spare tank. But that doesn't explain the other two times using it.
