March Pump Question

Nope, small bits of grain do not clog the pump. I vorlauf by just running the pump with the ball valve controlling the pump output (full open from the MLT) and recirculating back on top of a little plastic lid from a take-out container that I rest on top of the mash.

Edit: look into the SS pump heads (either a chugger pump with the stainless head or a march pump with the stainless head from chugger, it will fit)...easy to cross-thread the QD on the plastic pump head.

 

+1
No problem with that small bit of grain clogging the pump. Vorlauf was always my least favorite part of brewing. I guess I just don't have the patience to do it properly. This was my personal #1 reason for getting the pump. When the mash is done, I recirculate the wort for ten minutes or so. Probably overkill, but the wort is crystal clear when I run it to the kettle - no patience necessary!

The stock plastic head shouldn't be a problem of you're careful not to cross thread the fitting. You're only going to do it once, so it's not a big deal, IMO. That said, mine has a brass head, so feel free to take my opinion with a grain of salt. Stainless Chugger is not much more $$$, so you should probably give that a look.

 

I don't know how I ever vorlaufed without a pump. So much better.

FWIW, I have the Stainless Chugger. For just a few dollars more than the plastic March, it seemed like a no-brainer.

 

I have pumps, but I still vorlauf with a pitcher (and batch sparge)

Fly sparging is for *******

Awaiting fly sparging afficianados

 

I just put my hop spider (see avatar) on my boil kettle and pump my runnings through it.

 

I'm using a (your) hop spider also, but what I've found over the last few batches is that utilization is lower with the hop spider. I used it for everything but my FWH today...we'll see in a few weeks

 

Certainly not my original design and I agree with you about it possibly lowering utilization. When I'm making a hop forward beer, I like to separate my hops a bit for better utilization. Usually it means that I'll put my early hop addition(s) in a muslin bag then put my aroma additions in the spider. In an effort to find another path, I recently purchased and used this product http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/hop-stopper but it clogged on me with only 5.5oz of pellets added to the kettle (10 out of 11 gallons made it into the carboy) which is a far cry from the 23oz batch they claim to have made with it. It might be user error though so I have emailed the company to see if there is something I need to do differently to make the product work as advertised.

 

I throw all my pellets into the kettle loose. The whirlpool takes care of them nicely (another excellent reason to use a pump). I added Jamil's whirlpool attachment to my immersion chiller.

 

I got a quick and potentially helpful response back from the retailer and will post some of the feedback here in case anybody is considering a hop stopper...

"Were you using a pump? Sometimes pumping too fast near the end of emptying the boil kettle will empty the hop stopper faster than it can fill. To combat this, slow down the pump rate to a very slow trickle as soon as the Hop Stopper becomes exposed to air. Due to the efficient nature of the Hop Stopper, pumping too fast allows air to enter the filter screen from the top instead of wort entering from the bottom. This results in the Hop Stopper completely draining which in turn causes it to lose siphon. Watch for bubbles in the hose leaving the Boil Kettle as the sign that the siphon is getting ready to break. If this happens, immediately CLOSE the Wort Pump valve for approximately 10 seconds to allow wort to refill the Hop Stopper screen cavity. Then slowly OPEN the Wort Pump valve to finish draining the boil kettle at a reduced flow rate."

 

i usually need to open up the pump way more than I would like when beginning my vorlauf phase just to get the small bits through the valves, but once that passes, then I can throttle it back.
I run my wort through a RIMS tube so I'm recirculating basically the entire mash time, then its a quick hose change over to begin sparging.
And btw, greenkrusty doesn't know his ass from head. Fly sparging is the only 'real' way to sparge I have a float valve on my MLT, so it is basically set it and forget it for sparge. Way less work then batch sparging.

 

Of all the things I consider "work" in the brewing process, batch sparging is not one of them. Like you, I run a RIMS system (RIMS tube). The process lends itself very well to batch sparging - add water and turn on pump to recirculate until clear. I once incorporated a fly sparge into the process, but it was like diddling a large mouth vagina - Who needs it? Waste of time. I'd rather jack myself off with my left hand.

 

Batch sparging for life.

 

the hose change-overs, re-stirring the mash one to two more times (more polyphenol extraction), plus slightly lower efficiency vs. setting the drain rate and having enough time for a quickie.
For an eleven gallon batch, from filling the HLT to putting the fermenters in the basement, took less than 4 hours this past weekend (including a half hour whirlpool) and got 85% brewhouse efficiency. Wasn't going for any records, but fly sparging definitely doesn't slow things down if done properly.

 

My system requires minimal reconfiguration for sparging, but it certainly depends on how many pumps the brewer employs. A properly configured three-pump system can recirc on all three kettles simultateously. Transfers are just a matter of opening different valves. I use two pumps, so I do have occasional reconnects to make, but not during the sparge. I keep "pump two" on a recirculate configuration and infuse with "pump one". I assume you have to reconnect your HLT to the sparge arm by way of a pump? You don't mash in through the sparge arm, right? Tannins are always a consideration when mashing out, but I think proper ph adjustments and temperature is more important than agitation (pro brew-houses rake the grain throughout the mash). I don't like the idea of mashing out at high temperatures. The increased efficiency isn't worth 50 cents worth of grain, so I sparge with 160F water and mash out buy firing up the BK.

 

What took you so long? (must have been fly sparging) No longer awaiting fly-sparging afficionados

 

let's see, I've always mashed in by underletting the MLT...i think a hold over from the days of the zapap tun that would often stick on me. I only have 1 pump, so I use that to control the sparge rate and allow the float valve and gravity (i have a two tier system) to feed sparge water.
So basically my change over from vorlauf to sparge phase, I'm turning off pump, and switching the out hose from the RIMS from the MLT to the BK. Connect a hose from HLT to inlet of MLT and let the float valve work its magic. I keep RIMS element cranked during sparge so that I'm at boil by the time I'm done with lautering.

for those that can't, there's always batch

 

Mea Culpa...a brew buddy of mine gave me a keg ala plasma cutter that might sit in my garage for years before I utilize it as a direct-fire mash tun with a false bottom I already have......I am currently very content with batch sparging my cooler tun. Give me your best argument for fly sparging...other than miniscule increases in efficiency. Cheers, your head is NOT up YOUR ass

 

all friendly
to be honest, it's really the set it & forget it quality of fly sparging that i like...and that really came with the addition of a float valve to my system. I've been doing more social brewing sessions lately and it gives me time to go throw some corn hole bags or go grill/eat some food or whatever...during the middle of brewing. Don't fully have my finger on it, but I never was happy with stirring the grain bed 3 times total (including mash-in)...I know some make it 2, but I always a double batch sparged. I like not having to disturb the grain bed once it's set, give me a sense of closure once the grain bed is set. I started all-grain fly sparging then remember reading Denny Conn's article and fell in love with batch sparging but since have moved back to the simplicity of fly sparging. Don't think I would ever go back.
I will say, one major con about fly sparging is the need to monitor gravity on small beers which you never need to do with batch sparging.