NE IPA recipe thoughts?

With 10 ounces of dry hops in a 6 gallon batch you may want to watch out for the phenomenon known as "hop burn" (which some claim is due to tiny hop particles left in suspension). Usually if dry hopping is held to 1 oz per gallon the potential for this annoying anomaly is reduced. If you contain your hops in a bag that filters them out quite effectively the chance of experiencing this hop burn phenomenon is reduced. I generally toss my dry hops in commando (unbagged).

https://mashmadeeasy.yolasite.com

 

You going for a big ABV? Seems like a lot of grain even for a 6 gal batch. I would keep the ABV at 8% or under with a final gravity no higher than 1.014.

 

I use a pound for a 5 gallon batch. No hop burn

 

The whole pound as dry hops?

 

I'd also not bother with flameout hops and don't waste galaxy if you feel you need a boil hop( you can use a little magnum or warrior).

 

Probably around 13-16 oz. but yes I barely use any boil hops. I whirlpool a large amount and I dry hop the shit out of it.

 

I use 22-24 oz of hops in my NEIPAs with no hop burn. Last batch I did 8 oz dry hop during fermentation and 8 oz in keg with a muslin bag. Obviously if you drink the beer before it's properly carbed you will get some hop burn because it's still young, but I do 14 days grain to glass with no hop burn. Slight hop burn during sampling but usually by day 11-12 it's gone.

 

Ya I cold crash my neipa and I think that helps get floaties out of suspension which leads to that hop bite.

 

I bottle, and the biggest problem I've had is watching my NEIPA noticeably darken after about a month in the bottles. It seems to gain about 3 SRM.

 

What he said!

 

Oxidation? These beers are extremely sensitive to it. Even the slightest amount gets ahold of them

 

ya gotta keg and drink quickly

 

Definitely oxidation.

If one is careful to minimized oxygen ingress when transferring to a keg, then an IPA will last quite a long time in a keg. My last two IPAs have been quite good at 6 months after kegging. Dry hopping in the keg has, no doubt, helped.

As for bottling to keep oxygen from being a problem, I have no good advice. In fact, it was oxidation of a bottled Columbus and Citra IPA than finally turned me to kegging.

Cheers!

 

I may have to consider the kegging route. Either that, or stick with recipes that don't demand dry hopping.

 

Looks good to me

 

That is going to be a rather sweet unbalanced beer. You need more bitterness to counter the higher FG and seeetness you get from 1318 and that high a percentage of oats will leave a really odd taste in my opinion.

 

I think the 5.2 stabilizer is questionable. Without getting into a long conversation about water, it usually only "helps" if you start with low alkalinity water and use a high% of roasted malts. From your grain bill, I would imagine you would have a mash pH on the high side rather than low...
And yeah, hops hops hops.

 

i disagree. That's a lot of alpha acid at flameout. As long he cools appropriately I think he should be getting what he wants.

 

As @utahbeerdude said if you’re diligent about O2 exposure (even the smallest amounts) your IPAs shouldn’t fall off and you don’t need to use nearly as many hops as you guys are using. You’re literally just wasting money on hops with some of the ridiculous amounts I see mentioned here. I’ve never bottled, keg everything.