Need Kegerator advice

Oder yourself one of these. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GLDQFVI...0577&sr=1&keywords=indoor+outdoor+thermometer

Throw the "outdoor" remote piece inside your kegerator and monitor the inside temp. Mine runs anywhere between 37-40 depending on where it is in the cycle. When its running, it will go down to 37, when its been off for awhile it gets up to 40. Its never outside of that range. My second beer temp is 37.5.

 

there is no reason to think the volume of beer in the keg is changing the thermostat. the t-stat monitors air temp. get too high and it kicks the compressor on. once the target is hit, compressor off. simple. the gap between off and on is the differential, and with a fridge it can be quite wide, 10 to 12 degrees. but air temp will vary. liquid temp is fairly stable.

it is possible though that the reduced liquid level warms and cools faster than a full keg. less mass will gain heat quicker. it will also shed heat quicker. so it is possible, but unlikely, that when your keg gets nearly empty it shows more temperature fluctuation. more like air and less like stable liquid. this would be unusual however.

place a glass of water in the kegerator with a good thermometer. by good i mean not the $3 crap from China. you really need a Taylor or, wtf, get the right kind at Thermoworks. the RT600 is the economical solution. anyway, we need to know the temp within 1 degree. cheapo-o thermometers wont cut it. (and a good thermometer is useful all around the kitchen after all).

determine the constant liquid temp. then we can adjust as needed.
Cheers.

 

I wonder if that has anything to do with it. I wouldn't imagine it should make a difference of off gassing within the line but it does effect pour rate.
My experience has been that ventless faucets pour much faster.

 

They do pour faster and cause foam from speed / turbulence, but it is at the faucet, the lines are still clear in my experience. If you have a system that is working well with rear closing faucets and you add forward closers the flow will likely be foamy from the speed. It is interesting when people lengthen their lines and add forward closers at the same time to combat foam and come away with it in their minds the forward closers fixed their problem.

 

Hitting a little close to home there Doug!

 

True. Sorry about that. The line fixed yours, promise. That's the danger of changing too many things at once, you never know what really did it. Put your rear closers back on at the next change and you will see that everything is still fine which points to the line as the fix.

 

I'd have to dig them out of the land fill =).... not going to happen. Love the Perlicks anyways.

I'm having other issues, but I'll post that in my own thread where all my issues were discussed.

 

Do tell.....