Need quick feedback: How quickly does wort cool on its own?

http://tinyurl.com/cv275j

 

From boiling to 190 degrees it wouldn't take very long to cool that much at all. 15 minutes is probably a very high guess, 5 minutes is not unlikely. Not sure how you normally account for boil off, but I would shoot to reach the same post-boil volume.

 

That's a tough question obviously lower temperature will yield less bitterness from the hops, that when i like to ask you what kind of beer you are making ?
I will gamble on subtracting 10 minute from the boil.

 

would it not depend on the size of the container and how hot it was outside? assuming also it was totally open? if it was in the sun etc etc, need volume of liquid, ambient temp. and it can be calculated, now where is my old HP 48sx calculator.

btw it can be calculated using this but its not for the math challenged.

http://tinyurl.com/8wtbx6j

 

alpha acids will isomerize over 185, don't know that it will make much of a difference if you were at 190 for 10 or 15 minutes or so instead of boiling

 

That beer cooled so slowly will likely build up very high levels of DMS and have an increased chance of bacterial infection, according to everything I've ever read on the subject. I try to cool me wort down below 140F in ten minutes or less just to be safe and to pitching temperature within 30 minutes.

 

I suppose you haven't read up on the Aussie method of no-chill... Apparently it works without DMS build-up. Put the hot wort in a sealed container where it waits for it to cool slowly at ambient temperatures.

http://beermapping.com/forum/index.php?topic=2144.0

That said, this side discussion has nothing to do with his problem (propane running out and slow chilling until it got reheated)

 

There's no way that cooling down to 190 and then restarting the boil subjected his wort to anything you're suggesting. Had he forgot about his wort completely and came back the next day, then he might have had some issues.

 

If it were me I'd just restart the timer at 60 minutes to be sure all the DMS gets boiled off again and if needed jsut add some additional make up water for allow for evaporation.

 

Actually I have heard of that Aussie method although I haven't tried it. Did I miss some part of the original post mentioning he was brewing with this method? Since DMS is what we're trying to get out of the wort, it smells and tastes like cooked corn, any that is boiled off can quickly be replaced with more DMS as the wort cools down that's why we use wort chillers to get below 140F as quickly as possible.

 

+1. Yes, DMS accumulates while the wort cools. But it's not the cooling per se that causes it, it's the fact that it's warm but not boiling during that time. It's the same thing happens as the original pre-boil wort is being brought up to boiling. An extra 10 minutes of DMS production is not going to be a big deal as long as it was relatively early in the (non) boil.

 

If you boil long and hard, you can get rid of the SMM precursor to DMS and have little/no problem with DMS forming. I do a long whirlpool for some of my beers - 45 minutes, and win awards with those. There are also breweries that will whirlpool, and it may be an hour for whirlpooling, then running through the chiller. They don't have problems.

 

I guess we'll just have to take you at your word for all of that. I like to incorporate my whirl pooling with my wort chilling, very similar to what Jamil Zainasheff has often written about in several well know publications. There's no further point in splitting hairs over any of this since in the end it's up to each brewer to find just what works best.

 

I use the Jamil return on the chiller to whirlpool. If I do a long whirlpool it is after a long boil, and I also leave the kettle's lid off. The wort is still letting vapor off, and the temp stays above 180 for a 10 gallon batch. These have all been for ales, have not done that for a lager wheer after a 90 minute boil, it is coooled quickly.