New equipment 2018

This is my first tun, so have no experience with a plastic cooler. I have used it once and I lost 4 degrees in a hour. I know there was stuff I messed up, like not having the water hot enough when I filled it for the first time. I also couldn't place an extra piece of gear that came with it, turns out it is a recirculating bulk head, something I do not intend to use right now. Where the bulk head should go there is a rubber plug. Thought it would be OK with just the plug but am unsure now. I have discovered that water soaked through it when cleaning and noticed that the foam felt damp. Not sure how that will affect things.

 

If you can, store your tun near a active wood stove. The dry heat will suck the moisture right out.

 

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=does+brass+contain+lead?

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=does+copper+and+zinc+contribute+to+fenton+reactions

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=does+fermentation+create+condensation?

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=is+co2+vapor+acidic?

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=does+acid+leach+from+metals+quicker?

Let me know if you can't piece that together and need me to keep going for you.

 

I got sick of my my economy chiller being unable to cool my wort below 75°F in a reasonable time and finally bought the Jaded Hydra after looking at it for over a year. It is awesome, very quick cooling to pitch temps and much less water used even without whirlpooling.

 

Keep digging.
Brass contains lead beer is wet and CO2 is acidic. None of this is in dispute. .

And the point is that you said brass is dangerous if used with CO2 gas in draft beer systems. Which it is not, is not prohibited by any regulatory agency and is something you made up out of thin air. Or you know of a real threat to public health. Well, do you? Pretty amazing don't you think?

Please stop using these forums to peddle junk science.

 

Could have been used for decoction mashing.

 

Could be, I'll be seeing my kids soon. They can do the picture thing. Maybe someone else has seen these before.

 

You should reread what I said and not let your rage and insecurities cloud your judgement. You inserted draft systems, because you have some affiliation with them, I spoke about SPUNDING valves. I wish were were in person so I could bust out the crayons to explain this to you.

How does a SPUNDING valve work? Well since you are the draft systems "expert" you should know but in case you don't....It has a set point, you then bleed off excess pressure above that set point. In the case of SPUNDING, you rack fermenting beer (or primed beer) into the keg and allow the fermentation to finish and carbonate the beer.
Are we clear here?

When that beer is now actively fermenting in the keg, it is creating co2, and
condensation.
Are we clear here?

Now the BRASS SPUNDING valve is attached to control carbonation, and vent any excess pressure. Since that is a direct port to the outside world, the gases and condensation flow out the "keg in" port and though the BRASS SPUNDING valve.
Are we clear here?

Now the pertinent part:
When the pressure excess stops, meaning the keg is at the pressure you set, the BRASS SPUNDING valve closes and you now have a closed system. Inside the BRASS SPUNDING valve you now have the condensation and gases that were venting. Due to this junk science called gravity, the acidic water droplets sit on the inside body of the BRASS SPUNDING valve, then extracting (possibly) some heavy metals, they again (using junk science) gravity drain though the BRASS SPUNDING valve, though the "gas in" post, directly in the beer. Thus my original comment.......

I hope you actually read though this post to see I never put any but SPUNDING. I have said that in each of my posts.......

 

Now just throwing it out there... But even if you use, say, 316 stainless (composition includes Carbon, Manganese, Silicon, Chromium, Nickel, Molybenum, Phosphorus, Sulfur, Nitrogen and Iron). Acidity will also leach out the Chromium and Nickel present in stainless, which isn't exactly safe, either, for human consumption.

Just one study I had found on the leaching of these metals (304/316)... Side note, I didn't read it all, just was something I found quickly... But in the result section:

"All tomato sauce samples that were cooked in the presence of stainless steel using typical cooking procedures showed significantly elevated Ni and Cr concentrations"... Mind you, this does involve 'cooking', but still, leaching is present in either material. Pick your poison, I suppose...

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4284091/

 

Thanks for the lesson in brewing. Don't be condescending.

Now, you realize, you are still incorrect about the use of brass in this situation.
I mean, do you know of this threat to human health? Shouldn't you be informing the FDA? There is no concern that brass is leaching into beer with this set up, despite your convoluted theory. There is in fact no fact. Think about it. You have let your zealotry get in the way fact. I appreciate you feel like you are being unjustly criticized, but you have made a claim that lead is being put into beer. You have made logical assumptions and they don't add up.

Come on already, stop it. Sometimes it's better to just keep quiet.

 

Holy crapers,,,,, guess I'd better stick to bottleing with my old grolsh bottles,,,,,,, unless I'm a gonna leach something out of the glass,ceramic or plastic lids. And gaskets

 

Clearly I'm kidding. After all, it's beer and I don't care if I'm wrong, lol.

 

Sure, thats good practice anyways... To be honest, its probably easier to not keep it connected anyways. I will pm you with a procedure.

 

I

I am so sorry you are that dense. It's quite sad really.

 

Check out the nickel levels in beer, they are quite high, because of this.

 

http://www.craftbrewersconference.com/wp-content/uploads/2015_presentations/R0900_Ruth_Martin.pdf

(slide 29 in particular )

 

What I don't get is, why can't you just put an S-curve in the hose so condensation doesn't drip back into the beer?