New IIPA recipe....thoughts?

Discussion in 'Homebrewing' started by brewtaltap, Oct 25, 2013.

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  1. brewtaltap

    brewtaltap Initiate (0) Feb 15, 2011 Oregon

    We're trying to create a nice citrusy big IIPA.

    15lb marris otter
    3lb Munich
    1lb cara-pils
    1lb white wheat

    Hops
    2oz simcoe 60 min
    1oz citra 15
    1oz mosaic 15
    1oz citra 5min
    1oz mosaic 5min
    1oz citra flameout
    1oz mosaic flameout
    2oz citra dry hop 7 days
    2oz mosaic dry hop 7 days

    Yeast
    London ale yeast wyeast 1028
     
  2. SFACRKnight

    SFACRKnight Grand Pooh-Bah (3,348) Jan 20, 2012 Colorado
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    Looks good to me. I like to use wlp001, I don't like esters to play with my hop profiile, but lagunitas does well with it, so there ya go.
     
  3. pweis909

    pweis909 Grand Pooh-Bah (3,250) Aug 13, 2005 Wisconsin
    Pooh-Bah

    I suggest cutting your basemalt with basic 2-row. The Maris Otter, plus the munich, might get in the way of hop and yeast characters.
     
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  4. WillemHC

    WillemHC Zealot (604) Jun 21, 2013 Utah

    Still very new to this, but I must say that what you are using at the end of your hop schedule and in your dry hop will certainly be delicious so far as you are aiming for the citrus, and especially with where you are placing mosaic you will hopefully get some very nice grapefruit/tropical fruit hop notes.
     
  5. sjverla

    sjverla Initiate (0) Dec 1, 2008 Massachusetts


    This is what I was thinking too. Although I don't think any of those hops would clash with MO. And I think the results could be interesting, perhaps even excellent.

    What's your target volume? If this is for 5 gallons, 2 ounces of Simcoe seems like a lot for bittering. I also wouldn't use Simcoe for bittering at all. Save the good stuff for flavor additions and bitter with Warrior, Magnum, etc., but that's just me.
     
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  6. Seacoastbrewer

    Seacoastbrewer Initiate (0) Jun 5, 2012 New Hampshire

    I love the idea of more flavorful malts in an IPA. That inspires me to try something with all Munich or Vienna. Nice recipe, and hopefully enough hops to stand up to the malt flavors!
     
  7. bs870621345

    bs870621345 Initiate (0) Oct 29, 2009 Iowa

    Could try a hop stand as well. Never made a beer with it myself, but I've tasted some really excellent results!
     
  8. koopa

    koopa Initiate (0) Apr 20, 2008 New Jersey

    It's your beer and it all depends on what you want from it. I tend to like a smoother bitterness and a massive nose when I brew a beer like this. If you are interested in that approach, I'd recommend you...

    Change your 60 minute addition to a Fort Wort Hop Addition.
    Take all of the hops you were planning to add at 15m, 5m, and flameout and make them one massive flameout addition.
    Preferably cool your wort down to say 125F before adding that massive flameout addition if possible.
    If you do cool your wort down first and go with the massive FO addition in lieu of the 15m and 5m ones, you might need to up your FWH addition to hit the IBU target you want.
    Let the flameout addition soak for 45 minutes (hopstand)
     
  9. AlCaponeJunior

    AlCaponeJunior Grand Pooh-Bah (3,452) May 21, 2010 Texas
    Society Pooh-Bah

    Brew it as is*

    *Although the comments in this thread are up to their usual high standard of excellence. :grinning:
     
  10. ryane

    ryane Initiate (0) Nov 21, 2007 Washington

    I think you could cut out the munich and just add some sugar, it will help thin out the richness of the MO but leave all the amazing malt flavor there
     
  11. AlCaponeJunior

    AlCaponeJunior Grand Pooh-Bah (3,452) May 21, 2010 Texas
    Society Pooh-Bah

    125? I've done 170, but never seen 125 suggested. Not that I'm being a naysayer tho, far from it. Please do elaborate in great detail. :grinning:

    Now the notion of moving everything from 15-1 ---> flameout, yes, I've done that. One of my best beers was my PtE pseudo-clone. I was a tad hesitant at first, but suffice it to say it was barfdigg's quality posts that led me to take his advice on my first IIPA and go with a large bittering addition (3 oz, theoretical IBUs > 100), and add the entire rest of the hops at flameout (6 oz), quickly cool to 170, then let stand for 20+ minutes*. The result was an incredibly flavorful, highly aromatic beer** that was in all reality better than what most people will probably get from their first attempt at a DIPA.

    It should also be noted that by the time I tried my first DIPA, I had brewed a whole bunch of batches, and had my all grain system nailed down quite well. I believe this made a big difference as to why my first big, hoppy beer came out so well. Had I tried it on my second batch ever, it would probably not have been nearly so good. Another significant factor of success was no doubt using a recipe (grist) that is very tried and true, Vinny's PtE clone from RR. It really hardly matters what hops you add to this recipe, it's going to be solid. But face the facts, an inexperienced brewer who dumps 1.5 lbs of dark crystal malt and no sugar into an extract DIPA is unlikely to be so pleased with their results. ***

    *my hopstands haven't been perfectly timed, but they always have a minimum time. If one day the precise length of time of your hopstand seems to become a big issue, I'll pay more attention to the clock

    **heavily dry hopped allso

    ***and of course we all know I'm NOT part of the crystal police, far from it. But do choose a recipe that's appropriate for what you are trying to accomplish. If you're trying to make a clone of PtE, for instance, you might want to try starting with Vinnie's PtE recipe.. :rolling_eyes:
     
  12. mjryan

    mjryan Pooh-Bah (1,571) Dec 22, 2007 Minnesota
    Pooh-Bah

    What's your estimated OG?
     
  13. koopa

    koopa Initiate (0) Apr 20, 2008 New Jersey





    James Altweis did laboratory research on hop oil extraction and he mentioned that 120F was actually the ideal temperature for flameout hops when the goal was to extract all of the oils into the wort without volatilizing any of them.

    Check around the 14m 30s point and onward...

    The 37m 45s point and onward focuses on late additions at 120F or less....
     
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