New system inbound

I'm not a big fan of BIAB, particularly eBIAB type systems, and thus I personally wouldn't see this as an upgrade. But I'm sure it can make good beer. Enjoy!

 

What is it that you dislike about ebiab systems? I like my current system (electric HLT, converted cooler mash tun and propane kettle) but have been eyeing a move towards electric in the next couple of years.

@teal I have been very tempted to grab a canning setup as well but am having a hard time justifying the purchase.

 

I've seen/heard too many problems with maintaining target mash temperatures. The choices seem to be to live with a big temp drop or use/add RIMS/HERMS. On a different forum, there are lots of threads about inability to keep mash temps up without overheating the wort before returning it to the mash, faulty temp probes, etc. "Why did I only get 55% apparent attenuation" and that sort of thing. I've heard the same kinds of issues from local brewers, and have even seen it first hand.

Also, long times to bring wort to a boil with 5+ gallon 120V systems.

I'm sure a lot of this can be overcome with tweaking. But it seems to me that systems marketed for their simplicity shouldn't need a lot of tweaking to approximate what you can do with a traditional insulated mash tun.

 

I researched several all-in-one eBIAB systems and the Clawhammer seemed the best bang for your buck model. The Spike Solo is very nice but at over $2000 it's twice the price of the Clawhammer system.

The RIMS setup with the Clawhammer seems to maintain mash temps quite well. I have read the 120v version can take a long time to boil and you must leave the lid mostly covering the kettle to sustain a boil. I'd spring for the insulated jacket to help with temps.

 

120 volts is a compromise.

Anyone who has attempted a full wort boil on a stove top knows what I'm saying. And most stove tops are 220, so you can forget about a rolling boil with 120.

Or, 2 gallon brews. Equally sad.
One guys opinion. You really do need a lot of BTUs to brew. It's just a fact. There is no way around it.

Maintaing 150 or 160 is easy. Hitting 205, 206, 207...up to 212, that is eternity.

If you don't sustain a rolling boil, your beer will suffer, no matter how great the rest of your discipline.


Cheers

 

I have the Mash & Brew w/ Pump. I'm very happy with it as I had pretty much given up on lugging out my growing collection to brew day items in order to make a beer. I fill with the mash in volume the night before brewing and set the timer so it's ready when I wake up. I don't find excessive wait times for mash out or boiling, and I'm happy with my boils. I've made a few 100% pilsner malt beers and did not detect any DMS (although my basement was ripe with it during the boil). The dips during the mash are more than I expected, but maybe it's not a concern? I nice upgrade would be a hole in the lid to keep it closed during mash, but allowing me to run the pump at the same time. So, in the end, I'm very happy with the product and the beers produced in it. I think you'll be happy, too.

 

I switched from Cooler and Propane setup to the Anvil Foundry. I use the 120v setup (which can be switched to 240v.) Same brew time wise (about 4.5 hours - given I set the timer so the mash water is hot when I wake up.)

I love that I can brew in my basement whenever I want, no standing out in the cold or dodging rain. Easier to clean as well.

 

120V is perfectly fine for mashing and performing step mashes, but ain't nobody got time to wait for it to hit boil. However, I believe with the Clawhammer system, you can put it on a propane burner and bring it up to boil that way, which is similar to what I do. RIMS tube for mashing and propane for boiling.