New to home draft beer

Discussion in 'Home Bar' started by tkhubley, Feb 4, 2015.

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  1. mikehartigan

    mikehartigan Maven (1,421) Apr 9, 2007 Illinois

    Not to belabor the point, but the regulator doesn't read anything. That's the gauge's job. This is not mere semantics like faucet versus tap (ok, that's not semantics, either, but that's an error without consequences). I only emphasize this because many people, particularly someone who is new to this, might be inclined to replace a $50 regulator when the problem is a $5 gauge. If the gauge shows 12 and the pressure in the keg is, say, 20, the fault is with the gauge, not the regulator.
     
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  2. DougC123

    DougC123 Savant (1,186) Aug 21, 2012 Connecticut

    Are you taking the temp of the second beer? There is no way opening the door for that amount of time would change the temperature of 5 gallons that quickly.
     
  3. DougC123

    DougC123 Savant (1,186) Aug 21, 2012 Connecticut

    Excellent point Mike.
     
  4. tkhubley

    tkhubley Initiate (0) Feb 4, 2015 New Mexico

    Well, this morning the temp is roughly 38, and with the psi at 10 (at least on the guage) things are better. I'm getting maybe 3 fingers of foam instead of what was shown in the picture. Also, lots of bubbles from side and bottom of glass rising up.
    Better.
     
  5. DougC123

    DougC123 Savant (1,186) Aug 21, 2012 Connecticut

    I hope you are drinking these morning beers. How does the second beer look? Three fingers on the first, but good on the second would be pointing towards tower cooling not being optimal. Many would call it done at that point.
     
  6. DougC123

    DougC123 Savant (1,186) Aug 21, 2012 Connecticut

    One other thing....are you opening the faucet all the way? Partially opening it will foam a good beer also.
     
  7. tkhubley

    tkhubley Initiate (0) Feb 4, 2015 New Mexico

    Yes I am to both questions. I just tried again and it appears I will always have to do a de-foam half pour before going into the real pour. However, when I did so this time I only had 2 fingers of head will still lots of bubbles on side and bottom of glass. So, should this be what I just keep the psi at (10) here on out for starters?
     
  8. tkhubley

    tkhubley Initiate (0) Feb 4, 2015 New Mexico

    I opened the door a few min ago to check the line and there were a few section of bubbles, so I guess it's still balancing a bit to the 10psi
     
  9. ravensjeff

    ravensjeff Initiate (0) Sep 27, 2013 Maryland

    Looks like you are getting close. Probably just need to let things settle out. You do need to nail down a consistent beer temp over several days to ensure proper temp setting. Quite critical as a first step. 38 degrees and 12 psi is right for most Sam Adams. You can also try using pitchers to pour in until the beer settles down.
     
  10. tkhubley

    tkhubley Initiate (0) Feb 4, 2015 New Mexico

    Update: all seems well now. After first pour I get a nice smooth pour with a 1 1/2 -2 finger creamy head and bubbles on side and bottom rising up. And temp is sitting around 38ish

    Side note: unfortunately from all the CO2 adjusting from the previous keg and this keg, my bottle is only reading at around 100 left in the bottle :slight_frown:
    I checked with soapy water and it doesn't seem to have a CO2 Leak, I guess with my inexperience I vented and changed and vented and changed too much. I hope it lasts for the whole 1/2 barrel because I have to drive 2 hrs to refill the bottle. Thank you everyone who has helped me thus far.

    May the pours be with you.
     
  11. mikehartigan

    mikehartigan Maven (1,421) Apr 9, 2007 Illinois

    If the gauge reads less than 700psi at room temp, then you're running on fumes - literally. IOW, you might as well be empty. No way in hell that's gonna dispense 1/2 bbl. To confirm, weigh the keg. A reasonably accurate bathroom scale should be good enough for this. Find the Tare Weight marked on the tank (labeled 'TW'). Subtract the two to see how much liquid CO2 is left.

    You'd be well advised to get a bigger CO2 tank, particularly with a 2 hr drive. Two 20# tanks work well for me. Obviously, YMMV.
     
  12. tkhubley

    tkhubley Initiate (0) Feb 4, 2015 New Mexico

    The tank only starts at 500
     
  13. mikehartigan

    mikehartigan Maven (1,421) Apr 9, 2007 Illinois

    It takes a constant pressure for CO2 to remain in a liquid state. Whatever it started at is where it will stay until the liquid CO2 is gone. That's about 700 psi at room temp, lower if your tank is chilled. While I'm not sure how much lower, 500 psi sounds believable. The point is, if it is lower than it was before, then you're out of liquid CO2. As I said above, that means you might as well be empty.
     
  14. billandsuz

    billandsuz Pooh-Bah (2,097) Sep 1, 2004 New York
    Pooh-Bah

    the thing to remember with the CO2 high pressure gauge is that it tells you the gas pressure in the bottle. the CO2 is under so much pressure that it is actually in its liquid state. the gas portion is only in the headspace, the gap between the liquid and the top of the cylinder. as you use up CO2, the liquid level drops. but the gas in the headspace still stays at around 700 psi. once all the liquid is gone, then the gas pressure inside the bottle begins to drop.

    so the high pressure gauge is not really a fuel gauge. as you use up gas it will tell you Full Full Full Full Full Empty. the part between the last Full and Empty is when the gauge will tell you roughly how much is left. but like Mike said, then it's too late.

    short story, ignore the high pressure gauge until you are out of gas. then use it to confirm that you are empty.
    Cheers.
     
  15. Kadonny

    Kadonny Pooh-Bah (2,616) Sep 5, 2007 Florida
    Pooh-Bah Trader

    I'd bet his keg PSI was high from brewery and it's finally starting to lower to his correct regulated pressure. I have this all the time, breweries kegs are often over carbed and it takes a week to settle it down.

    Just as a side note, this is why I don't like some of the kegerators out there. Their minimum temperature is many times 38 and sometimes you need to go a bit lower than that to balance things out. Convert a fridge, way better option in my book.

    OP, keep at it.....you are getting real close.
     
  16. draughttech

    draughttech Initiate (0) Mar 7, 2015 Connecticut

    Doug,

    Great point. Even the smallest burr or rifling (spiral machine marks in the spout of the faucet caused during the manufacturing process) can cause explosions of foam. Check the inside of the faucet spout as well as the inner shaft and shank connections. Like I said, even the smallest nick, scratch or burr can cause this. Chances are the equipment that came with this unit was made in China and not a commercial quality.
     
  17. DougC123

    DougC123 Savant (1,186) Aug 21, 2012 Connecticut

    Welcome fellow CT BA.
     
  18. GilGrc

    GilGrc Initiate (0) May 7, 2015

    I've read this thread twice because I'm also new to home draft beer!
    Just wondering......after couple of months how is your set up doing tkhubley? still foamy?

    For those good guys who helped out in this thread I greatly appreciate your advice.
     
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