Noobie Keezer Build

Discussion in 'Home Bar' started by egoo33, Dec 18, 2014.

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  1. egoo33

    egoo33 Initiate (0) Apr 18, 2010 Illinois

    Hello All,

    Long time lurker I have decided to take the plunge and decided to build a keezer

    I got this sucker
    http://www.kegconnection.com/1-faucet-fridge-commercial-kit/

    I upgraded to a Perlick 630 SS Faucet and to stainless steel with a 10 Ft beer line

    I was wondering if 10 Ft of beer line will be overkill, I only plan on using it for commercial kegs, the first keg I plan on getting is a 1/4 bbl keg of Founders All Day IPA. I am still a long ways off being up and running, but plan on keeping everything at 38F. Right now everything is only on paper and just wanted to see if I have a good thought process laid out or am I completely off base. With that Temp and Beer line what would the ideal PSI be?

    Thanks for the help and pardon my ignorance
     
  2. billandsuz

    billandsuz Pooh-Bah (2,097) Sep 1, 2004 New York
    Pooh-Bah

    Welcome.

    Answer: Depends. You have the cart before the horse though.


    System Balance, 101. Should be a friggin FAQ. But here goes.

    You need three things to balance your system.
    1 Temperature
    2 Desired vols of CO2
    3 System resistance (or restriction if you prefer)
    All are variable to a certain degree.

    Balance is when the gas pressure is applied at the rate needed to maintain the dissolved CO2 concentration in the keg of beer while also having enough extra "push" to overcome system resistance. System resistance is the summary of hardware- tubing, shank, coupler, faucet - that contribute resistance.

    Temperature is important because more gas dissolves in cold liquid than warm liquid, all things being equal.

    After you determine the applied pressure for the set temperature, based on the amount of dissolved CO2 you want to maintain in your beer (known as vols and available from the brewery/distributor) you install the proper amount of line to bring the rate of pour under control.

    Line length is used to increase or decrease the velocity of the pour. Nothing else. The length is determined after you have selected your CO2 pressure based on the temperature. You will be using 3/16" ID beverage line, which applies approximately 2.8 lb/ft of resistance.

    BUT don't sweat it. 4 to 5 feet of 3/16" beverage line, 10 to 12 psi. 38 degrees. You want slower pours? Go to 8 or 9 feet. Less than 3 feet is a bad idea. 38 is ideal. 42, ok. much more and you are asking for headaches and foam.
    Go with that. It will work fine.

    Cheers.
     
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  3. egoo33

    egoo33 Initiate (0) Apr 18, 2010 Illinois

    I just ordered the 10ft of line just to err on the side of caution, I didn't go too much off the bat did I? I would rather have slower pours then foamy ones. Once again sorry for the stupid questions just wanted to see what I was getting into
     
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  4. billandsuz

    billandsuz Pooh-Bah (2,097) Sep 1, 2004 New York
    Pooh-Bah

    not stupid questions at all. like most things technical, got to learn at some point. it isn't intuitive at all.

    cut the line in half. in a few weeks when you need to clean (you know about line cleaning, right?) you will have a back up.

    in fact, get yourself 50 feet and just toss the old line every few weeks if you like. hand clean the hardware.
    Cheers.
     
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  5. egoo33

    egoo33 Initiate (0) Apr 18, 2010 Illinois


    Yeah i figure the stuff is cheap enough to do enough tinkering and trail and error until I get it dialed in
     
  6. PortLargo

    PortLargo Pooh-Bah (1,831) Oct 19, 2012 Florida
    Pooh-Bah

    In addition to @billandsuz good advice I will recommend you stock up on some extras before you have a keg of beer hooked up:
    1. Beer Line: Get extra, you may get by with 5 feet, but get 20+' and if(when) you change styles you're not running back to the store. There is nothing wrong with having a 5, 8, and 10 footer laying around. I keep extra CO2 line just in case.
    2. Washers/gaskets: All those fittings have o-rings, nylon gaskets, etc, that will gradually wear out . . . keep 'em in stock.
    3. BLC: You will be cleaning your beer line regularly, go ahead and get a big 'un.
    4. Faucet Wrench: I was sure I could get by without, aggravation not worth the savings so toss one in the cart
    5. Line Cutter: Again, positive I could get by without, but see "aggravation" in #4
    6. Stainless Steel: Upgrade your shanks/tailpiece, life is too short to live with chrome . . . with ss they'll still be pouring at your wake.
    7. Coupler: Not familiar with commercial couplers, but don't go cheap here. It looks like the photo has a "barb" fitting, if a flare is available it will make line-changing easier (will defer to anyone with Sanke experience)
    8. Burn your receipts as quick as you get them . . . keeps the mind at rest.
    Search this forum for info on "balancing" and "leaks" before you have beer at risk. Here's a good starting point.

    Welcome to the world of pressurizing beer.
     
    #6 PortLargo, Dec 18, 2014
    Last edited: Dec 18, 2014
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  7. Zubius

    Zubius Initiate (0) May 7, 2013 North Carolina

    Best advice, ever...
     
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  8. egoo33

    egoo33 Initiate (0) Apr 18, 2010 Illinois

    I should have everything aside from the wood and keg after the holidays and once it gets a little warmer I'm going to get this sucker up and running and will post pics of the build.
     
  9. egoo33

    egoo33 Initiate (0) Apr 18, 2010 Illinois

    Sorry for the bad quality but here is the start

    [​IMG]
     
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  10. DougC123

    DougC123 Savant (1,186) Aug 21, 2012 Connecticut

    You've got wood.
     
  11. egoo33

    egoo33 Initiate (0) Apr 18, 2010 Illinois

    In more ways then one :rolling_eyes:
     
  12. egoo33

    egoo33 Initiate (0) Apr 18, 2010 Illinois

    [​IMG]

    Just need my co2 inbound from a buddy and of course beer
     
  13. PortLargo

    PortLargo Pooh-Bah (1,831) Oct 19, 2012 Florida
    Pooh-Bah

    Don't know how to tell you this . . . but while you were setting up the camera some thief took all but one of your faucets!

    On a serious note . . . is that a water resistant type wood (can't tell from photo)? Pretty sure you know, but if not this will require some serious sealing before going into service. How many kegs will you be chillin'?
     
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  14. billandsuz

    billandsuz Pooh-Bah (2,097) Sep 1, 2004 New York
    Pooh-Bah

    i thought the same thing. that is one lonely faucet. or one big keezer. either way she needs expansion.

    so soon, yes.
    so soon.
    Cheers.
     
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  15. egoo33

    egoo33 Initiate (0) Apr 18, 2010 Illinois

    its a cedar i forget which type but its not spanish cedar, im not building a humidor :grinning:

    right now just one keg and one tap, wanted to get everything up and running before I commit more time and money to expanding once the first one is dialed in then expansion. to save myself some headache and money i wanted to get it right the first time before adding other taps, adding more is easy and shouldnt be a problem.
     
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  16. DougC123

    DougC123 Savant (1,186) Aug 21, 2012 Connecticut

    You aren't building a humidor but you will find the keezer environment is very humid to the point you will have water in the bottom of it. You will need to invest in some damp rid and occasionally wipe down with a bleach solution.
     
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  17. egoo33

    egoo33 Initiate (0) Apr 18, 2010 Illinois

    already have it in the garage!
     
  18. PortLargo

    PortLargo Pooh-Bah (1,831) Oct 19, 2012 Florida
    Pooh-Bah

    For when your thirsty friends drop by :wink::

    [​IMG]
     
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  19. egoo33

    egoo33 Initiate (0) Apr 18, 2010 Illinois

    if i only had that many friends :slight_frown:
     
  20. egoo33

    egoo33 Initiate (0) Apr 18, 2010 Illinois

    finally got my co2 ordering the keg tonight and then bombard you guys when its not working :wink:

    thanks again guys
     
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