Northeast Pales/IPA/DIPA

Mike, there is no doubt in my mind that you are a 'cutting edge' brewer. I appreciate that you share your information with us other homebrewers via contributions to this forum and the blog that you maintain.

Cheers to you sir!

 

The best way to make friends here is to show up and call everybody stupid.

 

Usually hoppy beers are the end of the line for me. I used the 1318 is the porter prior to the this batch.

Also, for what it's worth, just pulled a sample prior to adding my standard 72 hour dry hops and the hop aroma/flavor was considerably more assertive than it usually is at this stage. Confirmed by my wife without prompting.

 

NEIPA at 4 weeks, still just as hazy as week 1 in bottles. Still not a bitter beer, still has a softer mouthfeel, tropical fruits fading back with citrus coming forward aggressively. Nose is still strong citrus hops, smells like hop candy with the malt background coming through more than before. Time to start dreaming up the hop schedule for the next batch.

 

A great way to "reuse" yeast is make a starter, and split off roughly 100ml of slurry. That way you keep the yeast nice and clean.
For "washing yeast" http://homebrewacademy.com/yeast-washing that's the method I use.

 

Been meaning to gather parts to build one for a while now. Anybody on here built one or used one before?
http://byo.com/color/item/397-build-your-own-spunding-valve-to-carbonate-in-the-keg

I've tried it once before...for a dry irish stout. Came out tasting more like a sweet stout, but was delicious...very smooth roasty flavors.

 

Stan H has talked about adding hops at the end of fermentation to get the bio transformations, I think he said that 2-3 years back at NHC. I do remember Matt Brynilson talking about this too.

BTW, Bravo is high in geraniol. I might have to try that as a dry hop.

 

I ferment in kegs, I'm a big fan

 

FWIW, someone just posted a thread about London III, which caused me to read up on the description over @ Northern Brewer. Then I started reading the reviews. Really interesting to see several mentions of how flocculant the yeast is and how well it clears.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/wyeast-london-ale-iii#reviews

Which brings us back around to NE-style IPAs brewed with London III. Those reviews suggest the yeast flocculates just fine -- perhaps we can narrow down that haze to yeast-hop interaction? If so, what might cause the yeast-hop interaction in one yeast (say, London III) so very different than another strain (say, Chico)? Just stuff I'm pondering.

 

I have already made posts in this thread related to what you posted.

One post was:

“I have read a number of posts from folks who brew with London III that their beers come out bright.

Is there ‘something’ about using London III and heavily dry hopping which changes things?”

Another post was:

“This is the first time I have heard of a particular yeast strain not dropping clear when used to ferment a highly hopped beer.

Does 1318 drop clear for low-moderately hopped beers?

Are there other yeasts which behave the same way (i.e., not dropping bright when used to ferment highly hopped beers vs. low-moderately hopped beers)?

I suppose I am trying to wrap my head around the notion that there is a relationship between a particular yeast strain and generous hop amounts resulting in long standing hazy beers.

Maybe some others have information here.”

Nobody responded with ‘answers’ to the above.

Cheers!

 

We live on in mystery, Jack.

 

Well, I can state that I am stumped.

I have posted previously that I intend to homebrew (at some point in time) a clone of Trillium Fort Point Pale Ale per a recipe in the Sept. issue of BYO.

I will be brewing with Wyeast 1098 as per the recipe. Maybe that beer will turn out murky and maybe it won't; I will not know until I make it.

If it does turn out to be a murky beer I will still be speculating about the cause because I really don't fully understand the 'science' here. I have been corresponding with others on this topic who have strong opinions that the murkiness of these beers is due to high levels of polyphenols from the large amount of hops used for dry hopping. I have seen photographs of homebrewed versions of Pliny the Elder which are hazy but nowhere near murky (like Trillium and Tree House hoppy beers). That beer calls for about 4 ounces of hops for dry hopping.

The folks at Trillium (e.g., Jean-Claude Tetreault) likely have more insight here but...

Cheers!

 

Yeah, I think that's it -- I'd just love to understand the science behind it. There's so much in the brewing world where we have better, uh, clarity (forgive the pun) on things. This one just seems so...hazy. Dang it, couldn't resist.

Anyway, just searching for better understanding.

 

It is likely that the brewers are conditioning their IPA's at a specific temperature in order to achieve a certain level of flocculation.

 

What gives you that impression?

 

I will be able to report some findings here in the next 2 weeks, as I have a keg of a NE style (I hate to call it northeast because in my head, Mike Saboe (@TgBC ) produced PseudoSue and it was the first hazy beer I ever loved) IPA conditioning in the keg, which I used London III in. The early indications were for a low SRM (golden/yellow under or around 7) and super dry hopped beer (4 oz 1st dry hop, 3 oz second dry hop in keg). It looked as murky as photos of Trillium beers and like my last super late hopped IPA (fermented with US-05). The last IPA however cleared up as it was in the keg, compared to initial photos.

 

Similar situation for me. I did a split batch with the 1318 in one and Nottingham in the other. Same hopping rate with 3 oz in primary and 5 oz in secondary. I transfer them to serving kegs on Saturday and should be trying them in about 2 weeks. I'll report back if the yeast strain selection caused any difference in appearances.

 

Just curious on why you aren't doing your second dose of dry hops in the keg?

 

Kegged my most recent NE hop monster 3 days ago. London 3 + WL sach Trois.

Pictures coming soon......