opening the fermenter

Fermentation (attenuation) is often, probably usually, done in 7 days. Cleanup...maybe not. But the OP did later reveal the reason for opening. It was to add another ingredient. And although the added ingredient wasn't, in this case, hops, many recipes involve the addition of hops (or sugar, etc.) while active fermentation is still happening.

 

Yes you are correct, i just meant generally i hear most people saying that the fermentation process as a whole is usually not done in less than 2 weeks, then comes possibly secondary fermentation and bottle conditioning which adds even more time.

But yes to answer OP, you can easily open the fermenter after 7 days, especially if your recipe tells you so.

 

There are two possible questions here.

1. Can you reuse a grain bag.?
Maybe. If you clean out all the grains and try to get a second life out of a $1.00 disposable bag. Which is another way of saying NO.

2. Can you reuse grains?
No. Can't do.
Can you use a tea bag twice? No Unless you're doing it wrong.

Cheers.
Edit.
I should not be so harsh. There are some nylon bags that re re-usable. But not ideal for grain in my experience.

 

Maybe it's pumpkin puree. Can you post a picture?

 

If it is a thin white-ish layer it's likely yeast dropping out of suspension, and that is unavoidable for bottle-conditioned beers. You have to pour gently and try to leave it in the last ounce in the bottle. Over time it will become more firm and not so easily disturbed.

If it might be pumpkin puree or hop trub, again, you need to pour gently to leave it in the bottle To avoid this stuff in the future, siphon your beer to the bottling bucket with greater care to leave the stuff in your fermenter.

 

Terminology - wort is unfermented liquid. What you’re seeing is presumably sediment, sometimes called trub (troob), somewhat generically, or posssibly more specifically in this case, lees, which is mostly yeast sediment. Anyhow, I think we know what you were alluding to.

Assuming it is yeast, once your beers are carbonated, chill them and it should settle to the bottom. Some yeasts will tend to clump at the bottom of the bottle while others may recirculate into the liquid when the bottle is disturbed. Pour into a glass, carefully, leaving as much sediment behind as Possible. Disturb your bottles as little as possible before pouring. Ultimately,?to get away from this, you could turn to kegging

 

Since you haven't posted a pic, let's assume for a moment that the stuff at the bottom of your bottles is trub.

The trub at the bottom of your bottles is there either...
A) because it had not settled out before you decided to bottle -or-
B) because it had already settled out, but you picked it up when racking

If "A," the solution is to allow more time before bottling.
If "B," the solution is to rack more carefully.

Moving the beer to a secondary gets the beer off of the trub that has already settled (to avoid turning some trub compounds/stuff into off flavors) and then more trub settles out. One day of secondary would be pointless, because you'd clear as much or more with one more day in primary. If you want to do a secondary for, say, a week or two, you can, but unless the beer has been sitting on the trub for a long time, the tradeoff (exposure to O2) is probably not worth it.

Having said all that, it still worries me that you described the stuff at the bottom of your bottles as "wort." What does it look like? Is it ropey/stringy by any chance? Try to use non-brewing terms to describe what it looks like. Also, you said it was causing an off flavor. What does the off flavor taste like?