Outdoor Bar Build

I don't see any issues. Others might. I don't.

All s/s is the way to go. Perlick Perls, yes. Flow control for growlers, certainly. Inserts for faucets are mandatory for outdoor exposure. Bees, fly's etc. love beer. A spray bottle of water helps at the end of the day too.

Ergonomic handles? These handles are a bit shorter usually, and to be honest I never knew the standard handle to be not ergonomic. But they are s/s probe so that's good.

Taller tower means more beer exposed to ambient so more difficult to control foam. Make sure the tower bolt pattern works for this kegerator and you might need to extend the tower air hose too. Still expect an ounce of foam initially. If you can get a growler filler tube it helps a lot, it goes into the faucet spout and fills from the bottom of the growler up (tremie). They have these specifically for the 650 Perl.

That dual body reg is top heavy on a 5# cylinder, you'll want to mount the cylinder securely. And it will be tight if put inside the cooler.

Otherwise congrats.

 

the plug may or may not work with the Perls. the spout is a bit different than the traditional faucet, and those rubber boots don't fit securely. but there are many different varieties. the long ones definitely do not stay in place.

the brushes work quite well. the name brand is s/s and lasts forever for a few dollars. the no name is not s/s and the metal will rust. but you can buy 5.

Cheers

 

sounds awesome!
Pics when done!

 

Great news.

Careful with that extension cord, this thing draws more amps then you might expect and if your gauge is too light it will cook and possibly worse. I have seen it and it's not pretty. A short, heavy duty cord, 12 gauge, is probably safe but ask your electrician. Don't use some crappy lamp cord you find laying around.

Keg beer must be kept cold at all times. Keg beer is not pasteurized. In fact, if your supplier has kegs stored ambient, go elsewhere. (Import kegs are pasteurized however, so that is different.) Around 50F is the cut off, but why risk beer spoilage?

7' of 3/16" line is fine.

Good luck.
Draft Beers on the porch soon. Be aware that that a kegerator releases a pheromone that will attract every dude in the neighborhood. And people have no problem drinking your free beer if you let them.

Cheers

 

Kegs at home also lead to weight gain

 

Where in Massachusetts are you? There's a place in Marlborough that does fills, Fire Extinguisher supply. Another in I thinkn Weston - on rt 117 just west of 128, that does as well - I think they're also fire extinguisher supple / service.
I've heard of others but I don't remember names or locations.

 

You are probably going to bite it and just exchange. The usuals around here will always advise for you to not buy a new empty tank for this reason. However...

• Ask for a shiny new aluminum tank when you exchange. If the clerk is cool they have no problem picking something clean.
• Aside from the initial disappointment, nobody really cares about the tank. You'll get over it. Aluminum or steel, it does not matter. The steel will leave a rust ring and you'll be surprised how quickly you do not give a shit.
• Tanks need to be recertified occasionally. @PortLargo is the gas expert and would know off the top of his head, but essentially if you own a tank you'll need to have it recertified eventually. If the supplier owns the tank, they need to recertify as needed.
• Ask about opening an account with your Airgas supplier or wherever you go. We found the walk in price is substantially higher than the established customer price, so it is worth asking. Developing a relationship with a supplier can pay off. You'll be seeing this desk clerk a few times a year.
• If you can exchange your 5 pound tank, and it lives outside your cooler, upgrade to a 10 or 20 pounder. The tank cost is incremental and the gas cost is vanishing, so it does pay to have a bigger tank. But you can't squeeze anything other than a 5 pound tank in a kegerator.
• Having a back up is advisable, as the gas runs out the night of the big event, guaranteed. And you can't get a refill 5 pm Saturday night.

Cheers

 

There's a Victory Brewing joke there somewhere - Hop Devil, Golden Monkey, etc.

 

Rust is the easiest problem to fix . . . just use aluminum tanks. One of the first symbols on the neck of your cylinder will be DOT3AA which means steel tank. When exchanging look for DOT3AL (aluminum), or just take a magnet with you. Steel tanks suck. They are heavier, rust, and if left untreated will become condemned to the scrap heap. The only advantage is they are a tad cheaper.

Your new tank will require a hydrostatic (hydro) test every five years. Somewhere on the neck is the date of mfg and it will look something like 03_21 for March, 2021. No dealer will fill after this expiration. A new hydro test is $25 - 40, just depends on competition in your area. Your fill station can do the test or refer you to someone who can. If you want to game the system, wait until a few months before expiration and turn it in to an exchange (while it's still current). Or be a contrarian like me (two tanks on exchange, one on re-fill).

Here's a link to the markings on your tank. After hydro date the next most important number is the tare weight . . . this is how you know you are about to run out. If unfamiliar with liquid/gaseous conversions, this post explains it better than I can:
https://www.beeradvocate.com/community/threads/how-many-kegs.276617/#post-3497275

BTW, good looking pours . . . bask in the glory.

 

Did you pick up those kegs locally or in Maine?